Shifters level
#1
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Cervelo S3
Shifters level
Since I've installed FSA K-wind I only had a chance to ride it on the rollers. Until today. Took it outside, finally
Two things I've noticed right away - Fizik mictotex tape is too slippery ( really like the way it look and feels, but apparently not grippy enough for me). Salvaged my old red lizard skin from original handlebar. Second thing - when on drops it was very hard to shift and brake, I took a closer look at my shifter and I think that they're too erected before. I did some adjustment and took it for a quick spin, seems to shift alright now. Tomorrow will be another nice day for ride so I can try it for a longer ride.
Which one is looks more natural to you?
Two things I've noticed right away - Fizik mictotex tape is too slippery ( really like the way it look and feels, but apparently not grippy enough for me). Salvaged my old red lizard skin from original handlebar. Second thing - when on drops it was very hard to shift and brake, I took a closer look at my shifter and I think that they're too erected before. I did some adjustment and took it for a quick spin, seems to shift alright now. Tomorrow will be another nice day for ride so I can try it for a longer ride.Which one is looks more natural to you?
#3
Thread Starter
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Cervelo S3
#4
Prior setup looks much better.
I also had the lizard skins tape, loved it!
Question, the Pro3race, new? How do you like them? How many times have you got out on them. What are you comparing them too (previous tires).
I also had the lizard skins tape, loved it!
Question, the Pro3race, new? How do you like them? How many times have you got out on them. What are you comparing them too (previous tires).
#5
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Cervelo S3
ProRace are fine, I just had a couple of times on them outside. Feel pretty good and grippy in +2 C temps. Before was riding on Bontrager tires the one that bike came with.
#6
Prior - Red. I meant, before the swap to the white tape + new bars... Sorry.
I am on the bonty tires as well.. not liking them too much. I feel a little jittery in corners compared to my continental Attack/Force set... I shall see when it gets warmer.
I am on the bonty tires as well.. not liking them too much. I feel a little jittery in corners compared to my continental Attack/Force set... I shall see when it gets warmer.
#7
Jet Jockey
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: St. Paul, MN
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD9, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Nashbar X-frame bike, Bike Friday Haul-a-Day, Surly Pugsley.
I would have kept as shown on the right, but rotated the bars themselves down. I think your bars are actually pointed too much "up"...or drops pointed too "down", however you want to look at it.
I would also remove the 1" protrusion from above your stem. If that's a CF steerer tube, that may actually be structurally dangerous, depending on the setup.
I would also remove the 1" protrusion from above your stem. If that's a CF steerer tube, that may actually be structurally dangerous, depending on the setup.
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#8
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Swapped to red. Pictures are not in order, sorry
#10
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
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I would have kept as shown on the right, but rotated the bars themselves down. I think your bars are actually pointed too much "up"...or drops pointed too "down", however you want to look at it.
I would also remove the 1" protrusion from above your stem. If that's a CF steerer tube, that may actually be structurally dangerous, depending on the setup.
I would also remove the 1" protrusion from above your stem. If that's a CF steerer tube, that may actually be structurally dangerous, depending on the setup.
Here is a picture from a slightly different angle.
#11
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#12
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
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#14
Sua Ku
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From: Hot as hell, Singapore
Bikes: Trek 5200, BMC SLC01, BMC SSX, Specialized FSR, Holdsworth Criterium
Jealous?
#17
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I installed the same bars last year and I had the exact same issue. I ended up with them like the Red (left) photo. Seems more natural now, the levers are basically flat and an extension of the top flat section of bar. This makes it is more comforatble on the hands.
#18
are your hands particularly small?
when i install new bars i generally like to take a quick spin outside without my bars taped and with a wrench in my pocket to tweak the shifter position as often as necessary to get it perfect. i've been riding these same bars for a while now, and i love them, no reach discomfort at all. go with whats comfortable for you, and great looking bike!
when i install new bars i generally like to take a quick spin outside without my bars taped and with a wrench in my pocket to tweak the shifter position as often as necessary to get it perfect. i've been riding these same bars for a while now, and i love them, no reach discomfort at all. go with whats comfortable for you, and great looking bike!
#19
Thread Starter
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
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#20
Sua Ku
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Hot as hell, Singapore
Bikes: Trek 5200, BMC SLC01, BMC SSX, Specialized FSR, Holdsworth Criterium
#21
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From: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Cervelo S3
are your hands particularly small?
when i install new bars i generally like to take a quick spin outside without my bars taped and with a wrench in my pocket to tweak the shifter position as often as necessary to get it perfect. i've been riding these same bars for a while now, and i love them, no reach discomfort at all. go with whats comfortable for you, and great looking bike!
when i install new bars i generally like to take a quick spin outside without my bars taped and with a wrench in my pocket to tweak the shifter position as often as necessary to get it perfect. i've been riding these same bars for a while now, and i love them, no reach discomfort at all. go with whats comfortable for you, and great looking bike!
#22
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Red looks easier to brake and shift from drops. White looks easier to brake and shift from hoods.
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#23
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From: NYC - where bicycles go to die
The red is far more proper, because you have a smooth transition from shifter to bar. If you are still not comfortable, try pointing them up just slightly (maybe 3 mm rise by the time you hit the end of the flat part of the shifter) rather than perfectly level--far less than with the white tape. I think that might be optimal.
#24
Jet Jockey
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From: St. Paul, MN
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD9, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Nashbar X-frame bike, Bike Friday Haul-a-Day, Surly Pugsley.
Stem clamped to steerer tube below the expander plug insertion depth. Bad stuff...nothing reinforcing the inside of the clamp area. Given the length of protrusion, I don't believe that there are expander plugs that actually can insert that deep that the top cap will still be able to engage.
Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.
If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.
Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.
If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.
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#25
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From: Brazil, IN
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Stem clamped to steerer tube below the expander plug insertion depth. Bad stuff...nothing reinforcing the inside of the clamp area. Given the length of protrusion, I don't believe that there are expander plugs that actually can insert that deep that the top cap will still be able to engage.
Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.
If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.
Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.
If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.






