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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 02-21-10 | 11:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Stem clamped to steerer tube below the expander plug insertion depth. Bad stuff...nothing reinforcing the inside of the clamp area. Given the length of protrusion, I don't believe that there are expander plugs that actually can insert that deep that the top cap will still be able to engage.

Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.

If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.
I think it's a half-carbon, half-alloy steerer
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Old 02-21-10 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Stem clamped to steerer tube below the expander plug insertion depth. Bad stuff...nothing reinforcing the inside of the clamp area. Given the length of protrusion, I don't believe that there are expander plugs that actually can insert that deep that the top cap will still be able to engage.
The only thing the expander plug (or star fangled nut) does is allow you to pull the fork assembly tight while you clamp the stem to the steerer. Once the stem is clamped, it provides the force necessary to hold the fork in place. At no time should the expander plug be tightened so much that it requires a stem surrounding it to prevent the steerer tube from exploding!

Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.
Not quite accurate... Most manufacturers publish two things: 1) the maximum allowed distance between the frame and the bottom of the stem, and 2) how far below the top of the stem the tube should be cut.

For safety, it's the first one that really matters. The second one only matters when the bike is being assembled: if the steerer extends too far above the top of the stem, you won't be able to pull the fork assembly tight. If you want to leave the steerer long, perhaps because you're trying to determine the exact size/placement of spacers underneath the stem, it is common practice to stack spacers on top of the excess steerer tube. As long as the steerer tube ends slightly below the top of the last spacer, you'll usually then be able to pull the fork assembly tight enough to secure the stem. This is not dangerous, provided you're smart enough not to over-tighten the expander cap to the point where the steerer tube explodes.
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Old 02-21-10 | 01:59 PM
  #28  
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Went for a ride today. I love the way shifters right now. I spent on drops 70% of the time.
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Old 02-21-10 | 03:11 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
The only thing the expander plug (or star fangled nut) does is allow you to pull the fork assembly tight while you clamp the stem to the steerer. Once the stem is clamped, it provides the force necessary to hold the fork in place. At no time should the expander plug be tightened so much that it requires a stem surrounding it to prevent the steerer tube from exploding!
Whoosh.

You obviously have no idea what I said.

To repeat: Expander plug and cap help resist the clamping force of the stem. Resist clamping force of stem - at no point did I say that the stem somehow kept the steerer tube from exploding. Good gravy.

If you are at all familiar with the designs of certain expander plugs, you know that the entire "mechanism" is designed to help reinforce the steerer tube as well as to tension the entire assembly to the bearings.
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Old 02-21-10 | 03:18 PM
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shifters definitely too high on the white bars. I'd personally even set 'em up a tad lower than they are on the red bars - just a couple mms lower.
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Old 02-21-10 | 03:37 PM
  #31  
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I seem to recall giving you a hard time about the angle of your bars and shifters a while back. Good to see you've finally fixed it...
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Old 02-21-10 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
You obviously have no idea what I said.
You're right: you weren't exactly clear in your initial post.

To repeat: Expander plug and cap help resist the clamping force of the stem. Resist clamping force of stem - at no point did I say that the stem somehow kept the steerer tube from exploding. Good gravy.
Look: if you're such a ham-fisted dunce that you're going to crush your carbon steerer unless there's an expander plug supporting it, maybe you should switch to a fork with an aluminum steerer tube. Anyone with a little sanity, or a torque wrench, shouldn't have a problem running a bit of extra steerer for a few days, week, or months.
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Old 02-21-10 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
Look: if you're such a ham-fisted dunce that you're going to crush your carbon steerer unless there's an expander plug supporting it, maybe you should switch to a fork with an aluminum steerer tube. Anyone with a little sanity, or a torque wrench, shouldn't have a problem running a bit of extra steerer for a few days, week, or months.
Manufacturers have a different opinion. Their instructions assume appropriate torque ranges as well. I tend to heed those kinds of technical notes/specifications myself.

No matter what the setup, all bets are off if you overtighten.
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Old 02-21-10 | 05:09 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
Look: if you're such a ham-fisted dunce that you're going to crush your carbon steerer unless there's an expander plug supporting it, maybe you should switch to a fork with an aluminum steerer tube. Anyone with a little sanity, or a torque wrench, shouldn't have a problem running a bit of extra steerer for a few days, week, or months.
Look: this is the whole issue with the recall of some forks, such as with Isaac.

the recall notice emphasizes the need to exercise proper care in both the assembly and maintenance of related parts and the new 60mm-long replacement expander plug is required only to increase the margin of error, not to bring the system up to a minimum safety standard.

The service bulletin represents the company’s view of ‘best practice’ for carbon steerers and outlines several precautionary and/or corrective measures. According to Isaac International’s Dave Palk, none is individually more critical than the others though all are related to how the internal bore of the stem interacts with the steerer tube surface:

1.The lower collar of any stem used on an Isaac carbon steerer tube must be 7mm tall or more. Shallower stem collars may indent the steerer tube surface and create a dangerous stress riser even if the steerer tube clamp bolts are properly torqued.

2. Headset spacer height below the stem must be limited to no more than 30mm but should be at least 5mm. Exceeding that figure will create too long of a lever arm on the steerer tube while running no spacers at all will create undue point stress at the base of the stem. In addition, the steerer tube length should be cut such that it just slightly extends completely through the stem for maximum surface area contact.

3. All Isaac steerer tube expander plugs should be replaced with the new 60mm-tall version, which will be provided free of charge and offer additional reinforcement below the bottom edge of the stem as a redundant safety precaution. To ensure the plug extends to the correct region of the steerer tube, total stem clamp height should be no more than 45mm and a maximum of 5mm of spacer should be placed on top of the stem.
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Old 02-22-10 | 01:04 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Stem clamped to steerer tube below the expander plug insertion depth. Bad stuff...nothing reinforcing the inside of the clamp area. Given the length of protrusion, I don't believe that there are expander plugs that actually can insert that deep that the top cap will still be able to engage.

Most manufacturers publish safety notes with CF steerers that specify how much steerer tube should protrude. Depending on the tube and the specs of the plug, it's either none, or up to about 1 cm. They are usually pretty specific about it too.

If it's an alloy steerer, it doesn't matter.
Thanks for clearing that up.

I always leave 5mm on the top with all of my alloy steerers, just seemed better then compressing the very end of the steerer, no science, just old habit.

I now have a carbon steerer and do the same. I will have to check the recommendations from Easton.

Still I guess I never tighten my stem that much.
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Old 02-22-10 | 07:03 AM
  #36  
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Heck I'm jealous!! That Madone with the 404s is eye candy! but the red does look better.
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Old 02-22-10 | 08:27 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by rollin
Thanks for clearing that up.

I always leave 5mm on the top with all of my alloy steerers, just seemed better then compressing the very end of the steerer, no science, just old habit.

I now have a carbon steerer and do the same. I will have to check the recommendations from Easton.

Still I guess I never tighten my stem that much.
My Easton EC90 SLX requires the provided 10MM spacer above the stem. They also use a screw in plug for the stem cap bolt. I don't know if that supplies any additional strength or not.
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Old 02-22-10 | 08:42 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rollin
Thanks for clearing that up.

I always leave 5mm on the top with all of my alloy steerers, just seemed better then compressing the very end of the steerer, no science, just old habit.

I now have a carbon steerer and do the same. I will have to check the recommendations from Easton.

Still I guess I never tighten my stem that much.
Lennard Zinn recommends a configuration like what you describe for the exact reason that you describe: uniform compression of the steerer tube. His old version of "The Art of Road Bike Maintenance" cautioned to ALWAYS do that with CF steerers to ensure uniform compression.

However, since that version, manufacturers have come out with different forms of plugs, reinforcements, etc., and so Mr. Zinn's advice doesn't always apply anymore. One needs to read the manufacturer's instructions. Some specify x amount of spacer on top, and some specify zero, with tube cut approx 2mm below top of stem. Manufacturers will also have specified insertion depths for the plug/reinforcement that they make.

I do my alloy steerers like you do. I think it's good practice, and so does Lennard Zinn.
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