Headtube and spacers
#1
Headtube and spacers
When I bought my bike, the headtube was cut very short by the LBS.
Right now the stem is almost flush with the top, maybe about 2.5MM higher than the top of the headtube.
I know that if the top of the stem is higher than the top of the headtube it can be dangerous to ride since the stem might not be secured properly.
How much room would be safe?
If my handlebars were just 5MM higher it would feel perfect for me, but I have been weary of putting a 5MM spacer on since I am not sure if it would be safe since the stem would be higher than the headtube.
Thanks
Right now the stem is almost flush with the top, maybe about 2.5MM higher than the top of the headtube.
I know that if the top of the stem is higher than the top of the headtube it can be dangerous to ride since the stem might not be secured properly.
How much room would be safe?
If my handlebars were just 5MM higher it would feel perfect for me, but I have been weary of putting a 5MM spacer on since I am not sure if it would be safe since the stem would be higher than the headtube.
Thanks
#2
Permanent Refugee .......
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Okanagan Valley, BC.
Bikes: Steel
The monkeys at your LBS are idiots.
Why would they cut a steer tube that short before the bike was fit to a purchaser.
The stem should sit clear of the top of the steer tube by between 2.5 and 3 mm - the extra clearance is what gives the top cap the ability to press down on the stem assembly and tension the bearings.
Anything more than 2.5 to 3 mm is too much.
Your LBS is staffed by nitwits - chances are they ruined a fork for nothing more than giving the bike the "racer boy " look.
You could always flip the stem to a riser position, or try an different stem.
Why would they cut a steer tube that short before the bike was fit to a purchaser.
The stem should sit clear of the top of the steer tube by between 2.5 and 3 mm - the extra clearance is what gives the top cap the ability to press down on the stem assembly and tension the bearings.
Anything more than 2.5 to 3 mm is too much.
Your LBS is staffed by nitwits - chances are they ruined a fork for nothing more than giving the bike the "racer boy " look.
You could always flip the stem to a riser position, or try an different stem.
#4
TMB and AngryScientist are right. The 2.5mm you mentioned allows for the headset preload. I wouldn't space the stem up any higher. You should be able to find a stem that gives you the rise you need. You might want to discuss this with your shop and see if they will help due to the short steerer length. Just curious, but are there any spacers below the stem now?
#5
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,234
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Also is the stem angled up or down, and are there any spacers under the stem now?
If its angled down, you can angle it up, i.e. flip it. Depending on the angle of the stem that will likley raise it more than 5mm. Hence, the questions of spacers below. Moving spacers above, and flipping it might well give you the small change you want.
Otherwise buy a different stem.
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You could get lost and die.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#8
Maybe to determine the cause of the shorter steerer length from the shop we should ask what type of bike is this. If it is a full blown $6000 racer, perhaps a shorter height would be considered OK, perhaps the OP told the shop he was interested in a pro fit. We don't know this, but all that aside, just get a new stem and go out and ride.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,924
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
also depends on where the stem clamps are in relation to the steerer. imo as long as the top stem clamp bolt isn't too close to the top of the steerer, should be okay. i've mtb'ed with more than 5mm of stem above the steerer, just sayin'.
#10
Well, I rode a bit on my trainer today and problem solved. The minimal difference I was looking for had to do with my saddle position.
I recently bought a trainer and was messing around with my fit a bit, and did not notice I adjusted the saddle position a bit more than I should have.
It felt like a reach issue, but Im all set now.
Thanks for the replys.
I recently bought a trainer and was messing around with my fit a bit, and did not notice I adjusted the saddle position a bit more than I should have.
It felt like a reach issue, but Im all set now.
Thanks for the replys.
#13
I took a picture of the stem with the extra spacer below, just to see what people thought since it is always better with a picture.
Would this have been a problem if I decided to leave it like this?
The top of the steering tube is flush with the bottom of the top screw. It seemed like it held fine, but I am not sure how things will handle over time and with real road conditions and speed.
Would this have been a problem if I decided to leave it like this?
The top of the steering tube is flush with the bottom of the top screw. It seemed like it held fine, but I am not sure how things will handle over time and with real road conditions and speed.
#14
Maybe you can measure the depth? Should have only been cut to 2 or 3 mm below the top of the stem to allow for the top cap to tighten down. Looks a bit short but I don't see it coming off if you've torqued it properly. Of course if you wanted to go 5mm higher like in your earlier post you'd be screwed. A new fork would be in your future.
Last edited by rdl456; 03-14-10 at 10:46 AM.
#15
The top cap tightens down perfectly. My fear is that the top of the steering tube is below the top screw (flush with the bottom of it), and I want to make sure it is clamped securely. If the cap is tightened properly would this be the most important, and not worry too much about the top screw clamp?
This picture is with going 5mm higher.
This picture is with going 5mm higher.
Last edited by ac29593; 03-14-10 at 11:05 AM.
#17
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 31
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
I took a picture of the stem with the extra spacer below, just to see what people thought since it is always better with a picture.
Would this have been a problem if I decided to leave it like this?
The top of the steering tube is flush with the bottom of the top screw. It seemed like it held fine, but I am not sure how things will handle over time and with real road conditions and speed.
Would this have been a problem if I decided to leave it like this?
The top of the steering tube is flush with the bottom of the top screw. It seemed like it held fine, but I am not sure how things will handle over time and with real road conditions and speed.
And your LBS cut the steertube, not the headtube.
#18
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 31
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Carbon steerers should have the full face of the stem clamped onto the steerer. Spacer above, always. Alloy you'd get away with top screw below the top of steerer.
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