Little help with bike fitting
#1
Little help with bike fitting
So from what I gather the handlebars should block the view of the hub...
take a look at the attachments. i have a stem that is adjustable. the attachment is what i see now with my hands on the hoods.
I can block the view of the hub by:
- lowering the stem, making it longer to strech me out.
- raise the stem, bringing the handle bars to me to block the view instead of option 1.
-combination of both and tilting the handle bars to change the angle of the hoods.
I am not sure which is the correct way.
take a look at the attachments. i have a stem that is adjustable. the attachment is what i see now with my hands on the hoods.
I can block the view of the hub by:
- lowering the stem, making it longer to strech me out.
- raise the stem, bringing the handle bars to me to block the view instead of option 1.
-combination of both and tilting the handle bars to change the angle of the hoods.
I am not sure which is the correct way.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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Bikes: Colnago C59 Italia Di2
FAIL
The handlebars should be at a reach and height that allow you to use the hoods and drops comfortably.
Edit: Your reach also has a direct influence on your saddle comfort, so if you have to tilt your saddle to get comfortable this can indicate incorrect reach, bar height depends in part on your flexability. Ignor your front hub, it doesnt care if you can see it or not.
The handlebars should be at a reach and height that allow you to use the hoods and drops comfortably.
Edit: Your reach also has a direct influence on your saddle comfort, so if you have to tilt your saddle to get comfortable this can indicate incorrect reach, bar height depends in part on your flexability. Ignor your front hub, it doesnt care if you can see it or not.
Last edited by lazerzxr; 04-07-10 at 09:40 PM.
#4
Hills hurt.. Couches kill
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,370
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From: Brazil, IN
Bikes: 1991 Specialized Sirrus Triple, 2010 Trek Madone 6.5 Project One, 2012 Cannondale Caad10, 2013 Trek Crockett
You didn't mention if you were comfortable or not riding it. If you are, you could #1, just leave it where it is or #2, lower it little by little until your back hurts, then move it back up again.
Your choice really.
Your choice really.
#6
um it feels comfortable to me for the first 2.5-3 hrs on the bike. My lower back feels uncomfortable after that, i wasnt sure if that was normal because of the time on the bike. Ill get a pic tomorrow with me on the bike.
#7
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL3, Lynskey Cooper CX
With the posture you have set up on the bike, I wonder if you would be better off with a "Hybrid" bike instead of a road bike. If you really want to stick with the road bike, then perhaps you should invest a little time & money to get a fitting at your LBS. Aside from that, with time in the saddle and increased core strength you will eventually begin to feel more comfortable.... but a good fitting goes a long way toward accomplishing this.
#8
With the posture you have set up on the bike, I wonder if you would be better off with a "Hybrid" bike instead of a road bike. If you really want to stick with the road bike, then perhaps you should invest a little time & money to get a fitting at your LBS. Aside from that, with time in the saddle and increased core strength you will eventually begin to feel more comfortable.... but a good fitting goes a long way toward accomplishing this.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,012
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From: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL3, Lynskey Cooper CX
That said.... for whatever it's worth... and this is assuming that your seat height is such that you already get decent leg extension, do not have the saddle to far forward or back, and have some degree of drop to the bars, I would start by rotating the handlebars so that the bottom of the drops is near vertical to the deck. The way your hoods are tilted up and towards you look like they could wreck havoc on your wrists when riding on them or in the drops.
#10
It also looks like maybe the bike is too small for you. Like, unless your arms are pointing straight out in front of you, you must be pretty tall to be reaching down to those bars. A bigger frame wouldn't necessitate such so much rise on the stem and bar/hood angle.
If you can't afford to go to the shop, a website like this might be worth checking out https://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm
If you can't afford to go to the shop, a website like this might be worth checking out https://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm
Last edited by graphs; 04-08-10 at 09:57 AM. Reason: change link
#11
That is one of those adjustable stems. (I went that route foolishly thinking best to have something to make adjustments until I got more riding time)
Anyway my hunch is that you are way too long (like 30-40mm/1.5in too long) and trying to compensate for reach by moving the hoods to that angle which then makes riding in the drops unsafe due to almost an unusable brake access). BTW those handlebars have a very long reach and the bend design is "clunky" (no offense, mine have a similar shape and looking to get a compact bar)
If you don't have much cash, see if a friendly LBS would sell you an 80mm stem from their used parts bin, cheap after first giving you a quick once over to at least get your fit in the right ball park. (I think they will forgive that you are riding a mailorder bike) Or maybe someone you ride with (group riders) has one to spot you.
Anyway my hunch is that you are way too long (like 30-40mm/1.5in too long) and trying to compensate for reach by moving the hoods to that angle which then makes riding in the drops unsafe due to almost an unusable brake access). BTW those handlebars have a very long reach and the bend design is "clunky" (no offense, mine have a similar shape and looking to get a compact bar)
If you don't have much cash, see if a friendly LBS would sell you an 80mm stem from their used parts bin, cheap after first giving you a quick once over to at least get your fit in the right ball park. (I think they will forgive that you are riding a mailorder bike) Or maybe someone you ride with (group riders) has one to spot you.
#12
IMO, overal comfort depends on a combination of bike fit (including all the contact points), fitness (stength, flexibility, endurance), type/duration of riding.
We need more info to help you.
#13
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
The "rule" about obscuring the hub with your handlebars is a good starting point, not gospel....kinda like KOPS for your foot position.
If you really want some decent pointers, you should probably give us a pic with you on the bike....on tops, hoods, and drops.
Ultimately, your comfort on the bike and control of the bike are the main objectives. If you are interested in better performance you may have to sacrifice just a bit on comfort, but not much.
If you really want some decent pointers, you should probably give us a pic with you on the bike....on tops, hoods, and drops.
Ultimately, your comfort on the bike and control of the bike are the main objectives. If you are interested in better performance you may have to sacrifice just a bit on comfort, but not much.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 642
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From: Ottawa,ON
Bikes: Univega Via Montega, Nashbar Aluminum frame/105 roadbike
How much riding have you been doing? How many rides/week and what duration? And how long have you had that routine?
As stated above, if you're comfortable for 2+ hours, your fit can't be *horrible*.
While it might not be perfect, you can certainly help things by doing two things:
1) Try to increase your flexibility in your hamstrings. Tight hamstrings reduces your ability to rotate your pelvis forward, which will result in extra curvature of your lower back.
2) Increase your core strength. After a couple hours on the bike, if your core muscles are fatiguing, you'll slouch, again, putting extra curvature in your lower back.
As stated above, if you're comfortable for 2+ hours, your fit can't be *horrible*.
While it might not be perfect, you can certainly help things by doing two things:
1) Try to increase your flexibility in your hamstrings. Tight hamstrings reduces your ability to rotate your pelvis forward, which will result in extra curvature of your lower back.
2) Increase your core strength. After a couple hours on the bike, if your core muscles are fatiguing, you'll slouch, again, putting extra curvature in your lower back.
#15
thanks everyone for the help and info, ill try to get a pic up tonight of me on the bike. this is my 3rd year riding, i took a year off last year. for the past 2 months my time on the bike consists of:
-25 minutes to the gym and back 5 days a week (if no rain)
-2-2.5 hrs on bike 2 days a week
-3-5 hrs on bike 1 day a week (weekend ride)
I mean the set up i had wasnt killing me or anything, I went with a friend to buy a bike at the LBS the other day and watched them fit him (which i was not impressed and what i would call a poor job) but that in turn made me want to make sure i have my bike set up properly. Im pretty sure i have my lower body set up properly, not so sure about my upper body. the way I have it set up in the pics is not how i usually have it. i stopped 3 hrs into my last ride and messed around with stem and bars to see how it felt.
-25 minutes to the gym and back 5 days a week (if no rain)
-2-2.5 hrs on bike 2 days a week
-3-5 hrs on bike 1 day a week (weekend ride)
I mean the set up i had wasnt killing me or anything, I went with a friend to buy a bike at the LBS the other day and watched them fit him (which i was not impressed and what i would call a poor job) but that in turn made me want to make sure i have my bike set up properly. Im pretty sure i have my lower body set up properly, not so sure about my upper body. the way I have it set up in the pics is not how i usually have it. i stopped 3 hrs into my last ride and messed around with stem and bars to see how it felt.
Last edited by dokie; 04-08-10 at 12:22 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
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From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
The idea that the bars should obscure your view of the hub is worthless, but occurs quite often. That recommendation also falls along the lines of a racy fit, with a saddle to bar drop in the 5-10cm range. Your stem angle and bar angle looks very recreational, probably producing very little saddle to bar drop, unless your frame is way too small.
#17
This may get you on the right track.
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
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