Shifting While Sprinting
#1
Thread Starter
Ridin again
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 56
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From: North 'O Boston
Bikes: Gary Fisher AR Super
Shifting While Sprinting
I dont want to make myself sound like a fool (moreoso that I am..)
but what do you guys think of shifting while going for an all out sprint?
My reasoning being that, if I shift while doing a full burst, will the shift still go smoothly or will there be a chance of something going largely wrong?
Just as an input, I was going 35 sprinting and wasnt sure if I should go up to the higher gear or stay where I was- I stayed where I was.
but what do you guys think of shifting while going for an all out sprint?
My reasoning being that, if I shift while doing a full burst, will the shift still go smoothly or will there be a chance of something going largely wrong?
Just as an input, I was going 35 sprinting and wasnt sure if I should go up to the higher gear or stay where I was- I stayed where I was.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,454
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Just kidding, however my Rival does shift fine under load.
I don't race, therefore I don't really need to sprint. However, I think the best thing to do is to make sure you're in the right gear from the beginning. If you do have to shift you can probably shift under load if you have a decent group set. If you're not sure you can do it without messing up, in your head, compare how much time you'd lose if you didn't shift and just pedaled faster to if you were to shift, but if it's not going to be smooth.
If you are over-geared, it's probably best to shift down to get in the right cadence. You can't sprint in too high of a gear, but you can definitely spin up to speed in a lower gear.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 960
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: Bianchi Pista, Bianchi via Nirone 7, GT Zaskar 9r Sport
I've lead up to a sprint thinking my rear derailler was out of allignment. I went into the sprint and pounded the gears, as is normal four our group at that point, then pulled off to the regroup lot. My chain sounded like hell at that point and I finally looked down to realize that things didn't look right. Fortunately, one of the local shop owners was on my wheel and saw that my chain was about to self destruct. He had to pull three links, held in by pins which he barely had to touch to get to fall out.
In the end, I paid for his beer at the end of the night (didn't charge for labor), bought a new chain from him, and a new chain tool to carry with me since mine turned out to be a piece.
I learned that night, the importance of proper shifting, and of letting off the gears when I do so. I'll readily say I'm still learning since I've only recently crossed my first 1K mile mark since about March. But in that amount of time, I managed to shred a brand new chain. Don't do that.
If that chain had let go in the sprint, I would have been eaing the pavement at 35mph, and been having a really ****ty night. Mind your chain if you're going to mash the gears, and pay attention to wear when it shows up.
In the end, I paid for his beer at the end of the night (didn't charge for labor), bought a new chain from him, and a new chain tool to carry with me since mine turned out to be a piece.
I learned that night, the importance of proper shifting, and of letting off the gears when I do so. I'll readily say I'm still learning since I've only recently crossed my first 1K mile mark since about March. But in that amount of time, I managed to shred a brand new chain. Don't do that.
If that chain had let go in the sprint, I would have been eaing the pavement at 35mph, and been having a really ****ty night. Mind your chain if you're going to mash the gears, and pay attention to wear when it shows up.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: 2005 Fuji Cross Pro, 2006 Allez Sport, Mid 70's French Bike named 'Pierre'
That picture looks like me in a 'cross race last year, but without the mud.
Oh, and I didn't have an umbrella.
Glad that chain guard is keeping his pants clean.
Oh, and I didn't have an umbrella.
Glad that chain guard is keeping his pants clean.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 188
From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
I virtually always shift in sprints, otherwise I'm not accelerating that much. I usually shift as I jump, then one more shift during the sprint. If it's a slow sprint (like uphill) I may shift more times.
I try to shift at the top/bottom of the pedal stroke (it's kind of instinctive now), full power, but at those points in the stroke "full power" is not that high. However I regularly end up shifting in the heart of the downstroke. It's all good, with the ramped cogs and modern chains (hardened pins). I used to shift under 100% with toe clips + straps, a soft Sedis chain, and unramped cogs. I'd pull my shoe out of my pedal even with 2 toe straps cranked so hard that my feet hurt. With 3 straps I only pulled out once, but that was about when someone invented clipless pedals.
A chain that fails is a chain that shouldn't be on the bike in the first place, either due to wear or improper installation. I've seen many new chains fail at the spring series at Bethel, new ones installed improperly.
cdr
I try to shift at the top/bottom of the pedal stroke (it's kind of instinctive now), full power, but at those points in the stroke "full power" is not that high. However I regularly end up shifting in the heart of the downstroke. It's all good, with the ramped cogs and modern chains (hardened pins). I used to shift under 100% with toe clips + straps, a soft Sedis chain, and unramped cogs. I'd pull my shoe out of my pedal even with 2 toe straps cranked so hard that my feet hurt. With 3 straps I only pulled out once, but that was about when someone invented clipless pedals.
A chain that fails is a chain that shouldn't be on the bike in the first place, either due to wear or improper installation. I've seen many new chains fail at the spring series at Bethel, new ones installed improperly.
cdr
#14
Raising the bar
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Newmarket, New Hampshire
Bikes: 2007 Specialized Allez Double (sold), 2009 Kestrel RT 800
I shift in sprints all the time. Just click the shift up button at 4 o clock in the pedal rotation, then it will shift at 6 o clock, where you really aren't putting a lot of power on the pedal, so it will shift just fine.
EDIT: I see cdr has already said this. Call it an elaboration.
EDIT: I see cdr has already said this. Call it an elaboration.
#15
I would focus less on figuring out how to shift in a sprint, and focus more on choosing the right gear for the terrain and the pack speed, high cadence riding out of the saddle, and your jump.
#16
#18
Don't Believe the Hype

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From: chicagoland area
Bikes: 1999 Steelman SR525, 2002 Lightspeed Ultimate, 1988 Trek 830, 2008 Scott Addict
#19
Good to be in the right gear for a 200m sorint, but There's really not a lot to figure out regarding shifting. Bang the gear and go. Bang the gear and go. If you can't do that get a new mechanic...it's 2010.
Last edited by gsteinb; 07-02-10 at 07:24 AM.
#21
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
+ 7 (I think that's what we're up to) on you can, and often should, shift in a sprint.
This is the reason that STI was a significant deal to racers.
It's also the reason that SRAM shifters are designed so that you can pull the shifter in close to the bars, independent of the brake lever.
(allowing easy shifts in the drops in a sprint)
This is the reason that STI was a significant deal to racers.
It's also the reason that SRAM shifters are designed so that you can pull the shifter in close to the bars, independent of the brake lever.
(allowing easy shifts in the drops in a sprint)
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You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#22
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 188
From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
I used to use a right/rear bar-end shifter to my advantage, before there were any brake/shift levers. I could jump in, say, a 14, stay with even the best jumpers if they were in a 12 or 13, then shift up and jump again, and again, and use my slightly fresher legs to gain speed. I had a chance at beating this one guy who was waaaay better than me in the jump but equal in top speed.
When he got STI I couldn't beat him anymore. I'd always be going the same speed as he was, just 10 feet back.
Standing at high rpm is not that efficient (high to me is over 130-140 rpm). If you can sit at high rpm that's better. Standing is usually better at lower rpms, say under 120.
When he got STI I couldn't beat him anymore. I'd always be going the same speed as he was, just 10 feet back.
Standing at high rpm is not that efficient (high to me is over 130-140 rpm). If you can sit at high rpm that's better. Standing is usually better at lower rpms, say under 120.
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