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Determining the quality of a used bike frame

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Determining the quality of a used bike frame

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Old 07-05-10 | 12:38 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC

Bikes: Jamis Aurora Elite, Jamis Citizen 3.0, Giant TCR Advanced 2

Determining the quality of a used bike frame

Hi all,

I'm not really in the market for buying a used frame right now, but I've seen a lot mention of people buying used frames (typically lugged from the 70s and 80s) versus purchasing new. I thought it might be useful to create a thread where people can provide advice to n00bs (like myself) about how to make an informed / educated purchase of a used steel frame?

While I've just recently purchased my first road-style bike for commuting to and from work (Jamis Aurora Elite- and I absolutely love it), I've decided that I want my next bike to be something that I spec out, purchase, and assemble myself. And getting a used bike frame seemed like a good way to do that, but I've got no idea what to look for, and I figured that was likely true of others.

Cheers,
Brad
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Old 07-05-10 | 01:12 PM
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From: Knoxville, TN

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not to take the fun away from this section, but the Classic & Vintage section has a wealth of info on discerning sh*t from shinola when it comes to older road bikes. And, for what it's worth, I have several older well-made lugged steel bikes i've rebuilt with modern drivetrains & wheels...carbon threadless forks, etc. etc. it's fair so say however, you should know what you're doing buying + building. In fact, it's probably also fair to say that there are some nice new steel offerings that may be equally nice & offer the advantage of LBS support, a few modern "amenities" (more bottle-holder lugs, threadless headset, 1-1/8", 130mm rear spacing, longer seatposts if you're into that sort of fit, stuff like that), though IMHO you have to get into the real boutique type steel frame construction with a modern bike to match the quality, weight & workmanship of a high end '80s road bike with Columbus SLX or something like that.
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