Specialized Customer Service
#76
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https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rranty-service!
#77
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Dave Moulton uses the word "unshipped", so that should settle it.
https://www.prodigalchild.net/Bicycle7.htm
#78
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I didn't talk around #4, I addressed it. And I addressed #2 as well. I've never heard of anyone having a defective seatpost collar, it certainly isn't a systemic problem. I know many people on SL2 frames using the standard collar, including myself.
#79
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I concede unshipped. Just never heard it. That's why I put question marks, initially.
Anyway, there is an ignore button. Feel free to put me on it, I'm sure you won't be the only one.
Anyway, there is an ignore button. Feel free to put me on it, I'm sure you won't be the only one.
#80
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No, just calm down. umd can be cranky at times (can't we all?), but his opinions are well-informed. Just saying your issue sounds a lot like that with an oft-maligned reseller.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rranty-service!
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rranty-service!
#81
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#82
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Just saying your issue sounds a lot like that with an oft-maligned reseller.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rranty-service!
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...rranty-service!
#83
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My point was merely that, be it an LBS or an online retailer, the problem seems to be a common one in this case. Not generalizing, but contrasting.
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#85
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I think contacting the regional corporate rep makes sense. It will help if you have receipts that show a timeline of problems when they occurred and how much you paid. Specialized should have a record of your previous contacts with them, and their admissions of problems.
The fact Specialized admitted a crank/chainring problem (and also tacitly admitted it by going to another model), which for you OP caused cascading problems, i.e. frame damage, suggests that they may be willing to give you a new bike, or substantial trade-in credit.
On internally-routed cables, you can cut the front end of an old cable outside the frame, superglue a piece of wire or monofilament to it, then superglue the wire or monofilament front to a new cable, let it dry completely, pull the old cable out from the rear slowly, then carefully pull the wire/mono through the rear hole, and draw out the new cable. Or use Shoe Goo (takes longer to dry but it's very flexible, so it will go through bends w/o problem). I haven't had to do this, because I haven't had internally-routed cables since 1970, but it should work fine. Pretest your bond by pulling on the cable to make sure it will hold under some tension, and if it is holding, pull your old cable out and the new one following. This eliminates having to futz around trying to get the cable end to come out through the rear hole.
The fact Specialized admitted a crank/chainring problem (and also tacitly admitted it by going to another model), which for you OP caused cascading problems, i.e. frame damage, suggests that they may be willing to give you a new bike, or substantial trade-in credit.
On internally-routed cables, you can cut the front end of an old cable outside the frame, superglue a piece of wire or monofilament to it, then superglue the wire or monofilament front to a new cable, let it dry completely, pull the old cable out from the rear slowly, then carefully pull the wire/mono through the rear hole, and draw out the new cable. Or use Shoe Goo (takes longer to dry but it's very flexible, so it will go through bends w/o problem). I haven't had to do this, because I haven't had internally-routed cables since 1970, but it should work fine. Pretest your bond by pulling on the cable to make sure it will hold under some tension, and if it is holding, pull your old cable out and the new one following. This eliminates having to futz around trying to get the cable end to come out through the rear hole.
Last edited by Eclectus; 08-13-10 at 12:05 AM.
#86
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There are no internal routed cables. He means the cable in the shifter.
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you guys are harsh.
specialized admitted fault, shimano sent him a new shifter, and you guys are defending them?
i don't agree with everything the op said, but come on fanboys, cut it out.
specialized admitted fault, shimano sent him a new shifter, and you guys are defending them?
i don't agree with everything the op said, but come on fanboys, cut it out.
#90
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This bike is priced in the bike market about the same as a Rolls Royce in the car market. If this was a Rolls, in the first year alone I would have had the engine rebuilt (bottom bracket), the transmission replaced (chain rings), a dozen clutch adjustments (derailleur), and the seats would have been pulled because they don't stay where they are adjusted. By any measure, that would be called a lemon, which is what this bike is.
2009 Mercedes-Benz CLS
Cost Per Year $21,105
https://www.automotive.com/2009/12/me...sts/index.html
2009 Honda Civic
Cost Per Year $6,566
https://www.automotive.com/2009/12/me...sts/index.html
As far as Dura Ace goes, when I got my bike, I was advised not to go that high. Was told requires additional maintenance to stay tuned. Was told by friends, local cyclist, and maybe even the guy at the LBS that Ultegra was the highest they would recommend and that 105 is plenty.
Since you like drawing parallels to the car industry so much... Dura Ace is likely excellent gear, and all the pro racers use it, sure it's expensive, it's racing gear. Expensive != reliability.
- Lots of pro car racers use R compound slick tires, their expensive, doesn't mean they they will get you through a rain storm safely or last 40k miles.
-Lots of pro racers have expensive engines, they won't last 200kmiles+ like a toyota or honda, they get rebuilt every couple of events.
-Lots of pro racers use expensive cross drilled rotors that allows them to stop 150mph->30 over and over without overheating, on your road car they'll wear out and crack after a 1-4kmiles, they get replaced probably every race for the pro guys, so a non issue.
Everything with perspective and the purpose it was designed for.
not hide behind the legal argument that the warranty expired a couple months ago.
Many places call this "goodwill service", I've had to pay for service on equipment that is out of warranty, and I've received "goodwill" service. Most recently coming to mind, my local Acura Carland near me warrantied my faulty taillights 22,000 miles out of warranty. That was great, I definitely go back to them as often as financially feasible. But that was 100% their managers choice to go above and beyond the call of duty.
Tarmac is still on my short list for bikes when I upgrade off my tiagra/105 "starter" bike.
Last edited by Menel; 08-13-10 at 06:20 AM.
#91
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Should I have already replaced the bottom bracket, the chain rings, and the seat post bracket when they all started failing the day I bought the bike with zero miles on it? The shifter is just icing on the cake. If it was the only thing that had happened with this bike I wouldn't be posting here. I didn't say a thing about this on any forum for over a year of ongoing trouble until Specialized decided they weren't going to stand behind this lemon. That's not whining, that's calling out a manufacturer who has decided taking care of customer service issues isn't important.
If you've got something of substance to say, great. Personal attacks really don't showcase your intelligence very well.
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did you actually talk directly to specialized or ust through the dealer?
#93
Throw the stick!!!!
Just a gentle reminder to everyone to keep it civil. Opinions are certainly welcome from both sides but insults are not necessary.
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#94
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Should a Civic have engine, transmission and seat problems from the day you bought it? Should the repair shop and Honda resist doing anything about it and only fix things grudgingly from that day forward, while leaving me a pile of invoices in the process? Should a Civic be in the shop for clutch adjustments three weeks after it is purchased and more than once a month for the first year? Should a Civic have the engine rebuilt (bottom bracket), the transmission replaced (chain rings/front derailleur) and seats pulled and fixed (seatpost bracket) in the first few months you own one, then have the clutch fail completely at the end of the first year?
You said "Everything with perspective and the purpose it was designed for." I hope you don't mean that a Civic or a Rolls should be designed to come off the assembly line in fail mode, but that's your logic.
You exposed your lack of rational thinking with your last comment - you want a Tarmac and you don't want to hear anything that would give you negative information about your decision. Sorry - just the facts here.
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- Lots of pro car racers use R compound slick tires, their expensive, doesn't mean they they will get you through a rain storm safely or last 40k miles.
-Lots of pro racers have expensive engines, they won't last 200kmiles+ like a toyota or honda, they get rebuilt every couple of events.
-Lots of pro racers use expensive cross drilled rotors that allows them to stop 150mph->30 over and over without overheating, on your road car they'll wear out and crack after a 1-4kmiles, they get replaced probably every race for the pro guys, so a non issue.
-Lots of pro racers have expensive engines, they won't last 200kmiles+ like a toyota or honda, they get rebuilt every couple of events.
-Lots of pro racers use expensive cross drilled rotors that allows them to stop 150mph->30 over and over without overheating, on your road car they'll wear out and crack after a 1-4kmiles, they get replaced probably every race for the pro guys, so a non issue.
#96
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Same drill with the chain rings - Specialized customer service (not the LBS) denied any problems for a long time, and kept telling me my front derailleur was just out of adjustment. I had it adjusted at least once every three weeks as the chain would unship and grind more carbon almost every single ride, sometimes multiple times in a simple 40 mile flat lander. I got to where I nearly stopped rotating and gently moved the front crank as slowly as possible every time I shifted to avoid unshipping the chain. After almost a year of this they (Specialized, not the LBS) admitted they had ring problems and sent new ones. The LBS wanted to charge me to put them on - I refused, but they did hit me $15 for adjusting the front derailleur for the 20th+ time when they put the new rings on.
Same drill for the s-works seatpost bracket - Specialized denied all along for a year, then finally sent me one for free. I have a generic one on there that is holding just fine, so the s-works one will probably be used to stop a leak in my garden hose.
#97
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Ummmm yes designed for the pros was my point, and likewise demands a price premium just like... *gasp* Dura Ace and the Tarmac. And yes, all the car components I mentioned are available to the general consumer, you can get slicks, cross drilled rotors, from your local car specialty shop, probably even from tirerack. No different from your local bike specialty shop.
#98
Throw the stick!!!!
Ummmm yes designed for the pros was my point, and likewise demands a price premium just like... *gasp* Dura Ace and the Tarmac. And yes, all the car components I mentioned are available to the general consumer, you can get slicks, cross drilled rotors, from your local car specialty shop, probably even from tirerack. No different from your local bike specialty shop.
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Last edited by LowCel; 08-13-10 at 07:03 AM.
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Ummmm yes designed for the pros was my point, and likewise demands a price premium just like... *gasp* Dura Ace and the Tarmac. And yes, all the car components I mentioned are available to the general consumer, you can get slicks, cross drilled rotors, from your local car specialty shop, probably even from tirerack. No different from your local bike specialty shop.
Are the parts as affordable as bike parts? A VERY high end bike costs as much as what, a very low end car?
There's a difference between "designed for the pros" and "designed with the pros in mind". High end bikes are the latter.