QUOTE=Realpsi;13978406]mine! Love this bike[/QUOTE]
Nice looking CAAD Realpsi, I like the way the Boyd wheels match the paint scheme of the bike, one big
Oh by the way

Here's some logic for you...

I wanted a cheap touring/commuter... something to ride to work and around around town and not worry about. So I found an '03 Specialized Sequoia on CL for a good price. It's the perfect bike because it has a weird suspension seatpost, uncomfortable handlebar, and crappy adjustable stem.

What does this have to do with the CAAD10?
The stock Cannondale seatpost, handlebar, and stem are going on the used commuter, and I have an excuse... er... REASON to upgrade the CAAD. As an added bonus, the stock calipers on the commuter are worn out deathtraps. So it gets the CAAD10's Tektros. CAAD10 gets 105's.

Pics in a week or so.

What's wrong with SPD pedals?

Nothing.

I guess it depends on what kind of shoe you want to wear. I`m kinda new to road cycling and I was riding with a friend who used SPD pedals on his road bike and really liked them. So I went to the LBS to get some and the guy there told me I should go with speedplay pedals which I did. I really like `em. I believe they are designed more for speed over the SPD`s which are used more on mountian bikes, at least thats what I was told.I guess if you like to walk around alot it would be better to go with SPD pedals though.

[tangent ]
What Speedplays do that no other road pedal can do is allow the cleat to be positioned a lot farther back on the shoe. Some Pro Tour riders are using them for this reason, even as far back as midfoot. You're going to have a heck of a time mounting Shimano/Look/Time cleats or SPD cleats that far back.

Long writeup here:
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/...leat-position/

Cleat position aside, what makes more of a difference for me is not the pedal itself, but the shoe. I've got stiff Sidi MTB and road shoes, and once I'm on the bike (MTB and road bikes), they might as well be the same shoe. The practical difference is that I don't have any other shoes that will attach to the road pedals I have now, but I can use any kind of SPD-compatible shoe on the MTB pedals.

Nothing really is wrong just not optimal in some scenarios. If you have quality MTB shoes then it doesn't really matter at all. Sometimes hot spots can really hurt your feet with the smaller cleats. As a clyde it's much easier for someone to feel that as they may flex the sole more than normal.

End of my Spring Break; heading back to school so I'll be leaving the road bike at home (bike was bought in IL; go to school in MN).

Still some work that I'll have to get around to when summer comes (saddle fore/aft, go clipless, cut steerer, should the handlebars be rotated up a bit?, drive/ride bike up to school). Here's a slightly bigger picture. I'm hoping to join the school's cycling team next school year. Please pardon the iPod Touch photo quality

The way the saddle is positioned, it looks like it would snap the rails.

Yeah, it's really far forward. I was able to trade in the stock 110mm stem for a 100mm stem so I might push it back a bit later today.

Saddle positioning should not be based on stem length/reach to cockpit..

^^This

Start with the legs, then reach. If a somebody starts you at the bars...walk away...fast.

>_< I've even learned about that rule before. I lied about pushing it back anyhow.

Here's my ticket into the club.

You guys are killing me with the blue/orange frames. They look so great. I'd love to see one with a white seatpost, stem, and bar. Drool.

I swear she climbs like a mountain goat.

P1040095-1.jpg

I don't know whether I'd go with clearcoat aluminum or Gulf orange-yellow. Both are the best schemes to my eye.

Raw alum. is sexy but my thought process was to have something different from the others.

Made some changes. 14.09lbs as shown.

Slynkie, mind posting more pics of your bike with the new Boyd Vitesse's?

I don't have many, yet; sorry if I've posted this one already -

Just fork up the cash and buy two CAAD10 4s. Take pics and make all of us jealous

Thanks slynkie. So are the graphics or lettering on the rim just a silver/alloy looking color?

yea but a bit lighter/whiter than, say, the brake track.

So I am going on the my third week with the bike and have put around 70 miles on it so far. My typical rides are under an hour long and 15-20 miles. The 10-5 is a really nice bike and I love the performance. I am noticing that the wheels are starting to get out of true. I am 210lbs and they aren't the best wheels. I might need to get them trued before I get some Boyds. Not sure of the current lead time for the vitesse shipments.

I did however convert the RS10 wheels to tubeless and running the Hutchinson Fusion 3 with stans kit. I am riding 95psi in the front and 100 in the rear. About 10-15 PSI lower than before. The handling is much better as the quality of the tire is so much better. The ride is noticable smoother. It really smoothes out the cracks and uneven pavement. Leaving my development the front gate has cobblestone pavers near the guard house. It was a good test and you can really tell the improvement there.