Wheels, Seat, Seatpost would be the easy and somewhat cheaper route.

Are the 2013 caad 10 models for sale yet? I've been reading some rumors about them and deciding on whether I should wait and get the newer model. Is there going to be any good upgrades to this years? I'm wanting an ultegra group but I've heard the price might be a good amount lower than than the 2012 model? Not sure.

A few pages back in this thread someone posted pics of the 2013 CAAD 10 options. I'm not sure what page but it's there. My LBS will start selling them in late September so all the 2012 bikes are on sale now. I am not sure about specs yet, Cannondale still has the 2012 bikes on their site.

I have seen them or sale yes.

I knew those were yishun wheels the moment I saw the pic! I've been riding mine for 3 seasons without any issues. Enjoy!

Love the orange on black BTW

What wheelsetwww are you recommending? I am looking to do the same thing, and I wanna do research! Thanks

I have a few recommendations
seatpost :kcnc ult. light seatpost
Seat clamp: Woodman Death Grip seat clamp
Stem: UNO "7" ult. light stem 104g
Skewers: J/L Ti QR Skewers
All parts I use or have used and the weight should drop a bit.

Thanks a lot, I've had them for over a year now so yeah they have more than held up. The Orange and Black goes great with my team (TRU Cycling)

Competitivecyclist had Mavic Ksyrium Elites for $475 a couple weeks ago.

So I guess these are the new color schemes for 2013. not sure if I like them or not.. looks like more graphics are added on. hmm..


caad10 5



caad10 4


caad10 3


caad10 2


I do like this one:
caad10 1

glad i bought last years model. New graphics are to busy for me.

The CAAD10 2 is the only one that catches my attention. I have a soft spot for green.

i would get it for the groupo, as i'm about to change my 105 to force within the next year.

Other than the CAAD 10 1 - the paint jobs are unbalanced.

I'm on the same page, even the Caad 10 1 is not as smooth as last years. I thought I missed out by getting a "Deal" with my funky color scheme, but had I waited for this year's deal I would have ended up with one of these or a trek! (team might change sponsors). I'm rather happy with my frame now.

Hey, guys I'm hoping you can help me get my stem a tad lower. I own a 2012 CAAD10 RIVAL and when I remove the carbon spacers.. can I take out two smaller from below and put them on top(leaving the larger and 1 smaller below)? Or am I stuck for now... If so what do I need to buy? Thanks

Have had 2013 caad10 for almost two months now...

They'll be fine.

They'll be receiving the same pressure as they were when they were under the stem (remember, tighten the top cap first to compress the stem-spacer-headset-fork "stack" together, then tighten the stem clamp bolts).

Also, some fork manufacturers, like Easton, say to put one spacer on top so that the stem isn't stressing the very tip of the carbon steerer tube.

Look okay to you? Thanks for your input. Interested to see how this feels tomorrow.

Before:


After:




I guess this common for CAAD10 owners to do? Seems like a lot of people have to end up buying other parts.

It's common and looks like you've done it properly. The top of the stem grabs the top cap and bottom of the stem grabs steerer tube. Should be fine. I run 10mm of spacers on top for now and I'll make a permanent cut on the steerer tube later. I also bought at 15mm headset cap from Cane Creek so I can get another 10mm of drop below the top of the stock headset cap. That's a low as I'll go : )

Easton's fork instructions specify a full 8mm above the stem, and they provide a 10mm spacer with their forks to go on top, just in case you don't have one.

I've always wondered why 8mm...why not 3-4 with a 5mm spacer on top? Do those extra mms make that big of a difference in the stresses on the steerer tube?

It's fine for now but once you settle on your position you should cut the steerer tube so there are no spacers above the stem. The way cannondale uses an expansion plug you want it to be low enough to support both the stem bolts (as they instruct in the manual). If you don't already get a 5nm torque key as it's great for stems and seatpost adjustments.

And true as well, so as not to confuse DevinL with the talk about Easton forks. C'dale specifies steerer tube cutting as NWS Alpine has stated.

So one would just walk into their LBS and ask, "Can you cut my steerer tube?" What are the costs, procedures, and things that the bike owner should look out for to make sure the job is done correctly? I'm asking here first because my LBS is not the LBS I bought my CAAD10 from.

Thanks for the info. Would you consider this "un-safe"? Also, should I thread the expansion plug into the cap more now? So that it fits in between the stem bolts better? I'm assuming that it is now more near the bottom bolt area rather than between them.

I can finally post in this thread!

photoset