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The Cult of CAAD...

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Old 10-02-12, 07:03 PM
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Here's my Caad
Finally starting to ride it again after a couple months off due to a crash. It's nothing special now, but I do hope for it to be someday. Only things changed for now are the EA90 wheelset and a carbon stem.

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Old 10-02-12, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by protest42
Here's my Caad
Finally starting to ride it again after a couple months off due to a crash. It's nothing special now, but I do hope for it to be someday. Only things changed for now are the EA90 wheelset and a carbon stem.

Very nice. Glad you recovered from your crash.
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Old 10-02-12, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
I have noticed that double tasking a single lever for shifts makes the swing to a larger cog and/or chainring a very large motion compared with even my 105 group on a different bike. This is most noticable to me riding in the drops, where Shimano shifting is a bit more effortless. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I spend a lot of time in my drops, so it's something I often think about. On the hoods it doesn't really matter to me.
I think the idea that SRAM had for the DoubleTap was for quicker upshifting on the rear while riding on the hoods (think sprint finishes). More like "clicks" instead of "swings" on the small lever as compared to Shimano.

Downshifts are usually done on the hoods (more so during climbs). To me, SRAM has a shorter swing due to the action on a smaller inner lever - but is harder to do (tighter), mainly because you have to go over the upshifting mechcanism first. Downshifting on Shimano on the larger outer lever needs less effort due to more leverage.

On the front it's the same thing as well.

For me, shifts on SRAM's DoubleTap feel more deliberate, "snappier" if I should say so. While on Shimano it's a smoother action and is more refined.

As for Campagnolo, well... It's a Campagnolo!
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Old 10-03-12, 05:21 AM
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But we digress... Back to talking about our beloved CAADs!
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Old 10-03-12, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by e_guevara
while riding on the hoods (think sprint finishes). On the front it's the same thing as well.
Sprinting on the hoods would be highly unorthodox, and not that effective.

If you can't/won't sprint in the drops, the bike is probably set up wrong.
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Old 10-03-12, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Sprinting on the hoods would be highly unorthodox, and not that effective.

If you can't/won't sprint in the drops, the bike is probably set up wrong.
Agreed. I see people do it though. they aren't usually people I would want to copy form from. I will use the bends a little but usually the drops.
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Old 10-03-12, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Originally Posted by e_guevara
while riding on the hoods (think sprint finishes). On the front it's the same thing as well.
Sprinting on the hoods would be highly unorthodox, and not that effective.

If you can't/won't sprint in the drops, the bike is probably set up wrong.
Brain fart! I meant "drops".
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Old 10-03-12, 10:52 AM
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Still going strong!

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Old 10-08-12, 07:04 AM
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Here's my CAAD9, taken on yesterday's cool weather ride...Still love this bike, the crankset is creaking now though (tried greasing the bolts, tightening, even locktite)



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Old 10-08-12, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by IndependentMind
Here's my CAAD9, taken on yesterday's cool weather ride...Still love this bike, the crankset is creaking now though (tried greasing the bolts, tightening, even locktite)
Is that a BB30 shell with an adapter for the Shimano crank? If so...could be yet another BB30 creak from the interference fit interface. However, if it's not that, your most likely culprits are as follows:

With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.

Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.

Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.
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Old 10-08-12, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by prankster
Still going strong!

You say that like you're surprised! Mine (same frame, same color, but mostly still with original equipment) still feels like new. I just finished a 20+ mph century on it - and it rode like a dream.
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Old 10-08-12, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DGlenday
... Mine (same frame, same color, but mostly still with original equipment)
...
I have to say that I'm getting tired of the design, though. A plain color would have more "lasting power" for me.

I've thought about getting it professionally resprayed - but that money would be better spent on a decent wheelset...
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Old 10-09-12, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Is that a BB30 shell with an adapter for the Shimano crank? If so...could be yet another BB30 creak from the interference fit interface. However, if it's not that, your most likely culprits are as follows:

With Shimano HT II cranks, a lot of shops screw up the axial pre-load. The part that is commonly referred to as a "dust cap" on the NDS is the pre-tension for the axial loading of the bearings. I see a LOT of shops crank that thing down tight, and then tighten the crank-arm bolts. What this does is side-load the bearings, and over time (a short time if they're heavily side-loaded) they start to creak and tick.

Saddles are a VERY common source of perceived bottom bracket creaks. The saddle moves with your butt with every pedal stroke, and if it's creaky...it carries right down to the bottom bracket.

Otherwise, pedal/cleat interface can be a very common source.

Nope, not BB30. It's HT II.

I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)


Thanks for that.
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Old 10-09-12, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by IndependentMind
Nope, not BB30. It's HT II.

I did the install, and now that I read your post, I may have cranked the dust cap, I actually had no idea that was the real function of it, I'll take another look at it.
I've rulled out the saddle and pedal/cleat interface. I'm sure it's in the BB area/Crankset. It's possible the BB is pooched, it's still the original (and cheap enough to replace)


Thanks for that.
That cap should basically be "finger snug" with the tool that fits the cap. Something on the order of 5 lbs of pressure. Just enough to snug up the bearings, but you don't want to side-load them.

Step one: Snug/pre-load bearings.
Step two: Tighten crank arm bolts.
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Old 10-10-12, 10:29 PM
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After all these years, I finally got one, and I love it. It's an old-ish Caad8. It's stiff, responsive and feels fast. It's also light: the bare frame is 1265g, size 58. I got the frame alone (no fork, headset or clamps), with a couple of dents in the top tube, on Ebay for $33!!! Cool. I can't believe I forgot to spin the cranks around for the photo, HA


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Old 10-10-12, 11:01 PM
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WOW,! A CAAD8 for $33 - what a deal! And it's 'Handmade in USA' Cannondale still sells the CAAD8 for $1450 (spec'd with 105), but it's already made in Taiwan.

If the dents are merely cosmetic and there's nothing wrong with the way it rides then good for you. Enjoy!
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Old 10-10-12, 11:24 PM
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Yeah! Awesome! It's taken me about a year to find a great deal on Ebay
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Old 10-11-12, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie
I can't believe I forgot to spin the cranks around for the photo, HA

I'd be more concerned about that saddle pointed to the moon!
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Old 10-11-12, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by e_guevara
Cannondale still sells the CAAD8 for $1450
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.

The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
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Old 10-11-12, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Originally Posted by e_guevara
Cannondale still sells the CAAD8 for $1450
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name.
Yes, as evidenced by the welds on the Taiwanese-made CAAD8. I did mention in my post that the new CAAD8 was made in Taiwan, and 531Aussie's was a US-made one.

...the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
The strong Saeco team used the CAAD8 in the grand tours.
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Old 10-11-12, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bianchi10
I'd be more concerned about that saddle pointed to the moon!
Ha! Truth be told, I only threw that saddle on for the photo, because my regular saddles are a bit tattered. Although, I do have my saddles titled slightly upward, old-school style.

Last edited by 531Aussie; 10-11-12 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 10-12-12, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.

The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.
I didn't know that. What's the difference between the two? I have the Buyer's Guide from 2005 when the 8 replaced the 7. Shows the CAAD8 Optimo 6061.
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Old 10-13-12, 08:35 PM
  #3848  
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Thoughts on the CAADX?

Any thoughts on the CaadX? Thinking of getting one as an around-town commuter, grocery getter and light touring. Not really into the cyclocross thing but the bike seems like a nice all-rounder. What I don't like is the crappy brakes. Cantis should stop a bike well but these seem slightly better than just costing. Better pads or is there a different brake design that might work better for this type of bike?

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Old 10-14-12, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
The "CAAD8" that Cannondale sells now has almost nothing in common with that older CAAD8, save for the name. 531Aussie's CAAD8 is almost indistinguishable from the CAAD9 if it wasn't labelled.

The current "CAAD8" is just a run-of-the-mill entry-level Al frame. I was actually kind of offended when Cannondale decided to even call it that, since it's certainly not "Advanced" (the second A in CAAD), and the older CAAD8 was actually a pro-tour frame.


It seems that some believe its a good frame...
https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor...-20120705.html
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Old 10-14-12, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bikerjp
Any thoughts on the CaadX? Thinking of getting one as an around-town commuter, grocery getter and light touring. Not really into the cyclocross thing but the bike seems like a nice all-rounder. What I don't like is the crappy brakes. Cantis should stop a bike well but these seem slightly better than just costing. Better pads or is there a different brake design that might work better for this type of bike?
After a bit more research I found these. Might fit the bill.

https://www.sram.com/avid/products/sh...mate-rim-brake
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