Hey guys, and Gals, I have a wheel width question, what is the widest wheel you know to fit the Caad10 and with what size tire? I'm looking at a set of Easton EC90SL's that are 28mm wide and I'll almost certainly use a 23mm tire. I think they'll clear just fine but wanted to be sure before I spend the money and find out they wont. I recently had a set of Reynolds Assaults on there that were 25mm wide with 25c tires on them and there was plenty of room so I assume I'd be okay? Thanks!

Looks great! ;)

Thank you guys.:)

Why would you use a 23mm tire, let alone a 23mm tire on a 28mm wheel? #thatsnotaero

I have FSA Gossamer on one of my bikes and it has the worst front shifting performance I've ever experienced (with 5700 shimano group). I believe that a shimano tiagra cranks are far better than that. I would never-ever recommend the FSA gossamer to anyone. I think that the new 5800 crankset would be better and a great value, but don't use it with the shim. I recommend either the Praxis Works Conversion BB (CONVERSION BB | Praxis Cycles - BB30 + 24mm spindle compatible without converters) or the Rotor conversion BB (Rotor BB30-24 Converter Bottom Bracket - Road | Competitive Cyclist - same as the praxis).

While I agree that a power meter would be great benefit, but I beg to differ on the crankset. The newish 5800 crankset is great, and while it won't be much stiffer nor lighter, the front shifting will be MUCH better.

Interesting. I have 5800 on another bike, but that's a full 5800 groupset, and the front shifting is unquestionably better than on my 5700 CAAD10 (with FSA Gossamer crank). However, not having experimented, I don't know whether that's because of the crank alone, the redesigned front derailleur, or revised cable pull on the shifter, or a mixture of the three.

I don't really notice much differences in shifting with a gossamer crank. I previously owned a AnyRoad with a 105 group set, derailleur and crank, the shifting was just a little bit smoother. Other than that I honestly don't think it will make much of a difference. I was thinking about getting a Praxis Cycles BB30 to 24mm kit but I just couldn't really be bothered with the cost as it was going to cost me another $350 just to add a Shimano 105 + Praxis and labour for a mechanic to install. I think I can live using the Gossamer for now or possibly upgrading to there Energy Cranks, if I even can find one. But other than that I'm happy that I'm getting a FSA Stages Power Meter as I am thinking of getting a CAAD X in the future so I can just chuck it on to the bike. Can't be to picky.

Why wouldn't I? First, the wheelset I'm considering is 28mm wide on the outside of the brake track and 19mm inside bead to bead so when compared to my current Ultegra 6700 wheelset that has a 15mm inside width, the additional 4mm of width will give you almost a third more tire volume that will allow you to run lower inflation pressures and get all the benefits of running a larger tire like a 25mm without the additional weight penalty. Second, shorter side walls means less tire flex and improved cornering compared to a larger tire on a narrow rim that gives you the light bulb effect and will by nature want to bulge and roll off the rim as you dive deep into a corner. Third, lower inflation pressure equals lower rolling resistance as proven by many current tests by many tire and wheel manufacturers. Combine all of these advantages with the advantages of a premium Road Tubeless Tire and I don't think it gets any better right now! The 1st picture below is a Hed Ardennes+ with a 20mm inside width compared to a Mavic wheel with a 15mm inside width both using a 23mm Conti 4000S, look how wide the tire measures! The 2nd picture is illustrating the difference in tire roll between a narrow and wide wheel when cornering, this is especially important when running tubeless because you want that bead to stay put and less sidewall deflection due to the wider wheel helps in that department.

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/a...psanzzmoiv.jpg

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslx45tljc.jpg

You are right. I didn't think about the changes they made to the FD and levers. They might very well contribute to the better shifting and I only have experience with full 5800 shifting and 5700 + Gossamer. The reason for my assumption was that I rented a full tiagra bike and I had better shifting on that than with my 5700 + gossamer combination. The biggest issue for me was shifting from small to big chainring under heavy load. (Like during a climb when you have to kick it up to the big ring for sprinting or closing an opening gap). It felt like I would rip off the crankset and I'm a small guy.

That happened to me before, and it got stuck in the smaller ring and wouldn't shift up so it made a chip inside the crank due to the tension. Had to play around with the adjusting cable just to get it going again. Something I can live with.

Thank you; I'll shut up now.

Hello guys and girls i been reading on this forum for a week it is a great place to be and im planing to buy the caad 10 105
i am 5'9 inch tall 200lbs has a proportional body no long legs or arms i been visited a few LBS and they telling me i need a size 54-56 cm frame i know i need to test ride it but i like to hear from the expert if that is sounds about rigth?? when i am ready for the purchase i will do some test ride ofcourse, is that a huge different between 54-56cm?

Also im not sure if i should order the 2016 model or just get the 2015 i got a quote for $1500 out of the door for the 2015, this would be my first road bike or bike for that matter my plain is to keep in shape and go for group rides on the weekends no racing so hopefully this bike will be comfortable.

Looking forward to hear your opinion.

Thanks
John

Bodies are all different, but for that height, I'd estimate between a 52 and 54 size frame. If you want to be sure, you can try a fit calculator (have a friend help with the measurements, if you put junk numbers in, you'll get junk out.)
Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

The 105 has a MSRP of $1680. It's the end of the season and shops should be trying to move their old stock. Personally, I think you can find a better deal. Up to you though, if you feel it's a good deal, then go for it.

Hi thanks for the reply i agree with you about moving old stock but the places i went to they don't have the color or size I'm looking for so they would need to order one from cannondale so you think moving old stock from the factory the saving should apply or just from the store i would say , if they have it in store i think it would be easier to negotiate ....

Thanks

I bought my EVO two years ago at the end of the season, the shop ordered it from the factory, and I got a really nice discount. I would at least ask what the other shops would offer you.

I'm 5'7" and have a 54cm CAAD 10, which fits just right. I don't see you going below 54cm.

Hi. I have to replace my CAAD10 (2013) derailleur hanger. I've noticed that there are two part numbers for the Wheels Mfg. version - 162 and 162f. Does anyone know if there is a difference between these two? Also, any reason why I would go with the official CAAD10 "Cannondale" branded hanger over the Wheels version?

+1. Yeah, I'd guess 54cm for 5'9". I'm 5'11" on a 56.

thanks i went to a 4th place and they had 52-54-56 and the guy the told me i should get 52-54 . i could not test ride them and the price was tight they did not want to give me a discount.

im going to try the bike fitter you mentioned and see what comes up

just wondering did you have a chance to try the 58 or you felt comfortable on the 56 rightaway?
Thanks

Yeah, I known several people at 5'11" riding a 58cm. I've ridden a few 58's - they are just a little too big. I've owned two 57cm Bianchi's, which fit fine (they run a little small). Also had a Fuji with a 57cm ETT, and that was just a little much. My arms and legs are on the short side for standing 5'11'" - like 30" inseam on my pants. So I don't have a ton of standover clearance on the CAAD 10...and I'm typically running shorter cranks than what is spec'd.

i got the measurements the calculator gave me the frame dimensions not the size of the bike i guess because every frame is different
Actual Inseam

32 In

Trunk

25 In

Forearm

13 In

Arm

25 In

Thigh

25 In

Lower Leg

20 In

Sternal Notch

55.5 In

Total Height

69 In

Go with the top tube length!
This is the Eddy fit (which I believe is half way between Competitive and French)
Top Tube Length

52.2 - 52.6 Cm

Seat Tube Range CC

53.8 - 54.3 Cm

Seat Tube Range CT

55.5 - 56 Cm

Stem Length

9.7 - 10.3 Cm

BB Saddle Position

68.7 - 70.7 Cm

Saddle Handlebar

52.2 - 52.8 Cm

Saddle Setback

8.9 - 9.3 Cm

Seatpost Type

Setback

It's really all how you feel on the bike. To me, dtrain and dave seem to have bigger bikes, but maybe they have a longer torso, which allows for the longer top tube length. At 6', I feel like my 56 fits me perfectly, but I don't mind riding a 54 and am considering a 54 for my next bike. Smaller sizes seem to be "in" at the moment among the pros as it allows you throw it around a bit more.

So if it shows 52.2-52.6cm for the top tube lenght my bike size should be 52cm or maybe 54cm depends on how comfortable i fell rigth?