The Cult of CAAD...
#9776
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,662
Likes: 46
From: Amsterdam
Bikes: 1980 Koga-Miyata Gentsluxe-S, 1998 Eddy Merckx Corsa 01, 1983 Tommasini Racing, 2012 Gulf Western CAAD10, 1980 Univega Gran Premio
I just posted this to the 'Show your bike' thread, but thought it should be here, too. This is my wife's 1993 Cannondale R2000 2.8 Series in Raceberry Fizz fade above my 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 4 Rival.
All I've done to mine is de-sticker the wheels and upgrade the tires. Love the bike! After a lot of research (especially on this forum), and a few test rides, I went in to the LBS to buy the 2012 CAAD10 5. Then I saw the Gulf Western racing colors on this bike, and had to have it. I'm just glad those colors weren't on the CAAD10 1 or 2 that year!
There's a much longer story to my wife's bike. It's probably a little big for her, but she loves it. Oh, and the photo is a little deceptive. Mine's a 58 cm, her's a 54.5.
#9777
Newbie
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa ON
Here is my beast of burden, it was a hybrid (2002 Warrior 900). I gave it a drop bar, Ultegra STI levers, some slick tires a new saddle, post and stem.
I must admit, it is far from an ideal road bike but it's still a CAAD and I have put a lot of great miles on it. About 20lbs as seen below so nothing to brag about, yet despite some imperfections it has been a reliable and much enjoyed bike for everything I have thrown at it. One day I will buy a real road bike, and because of my great experiences with this one it will definitely be another CAAD.
I must admit, it is far from an ideal road bike but it's still a CAAD and I have put a lot of great miles on it. About 20lbs as seen below so nothing to brag about, yet despite some imperfections it has been a reliable and much enjoyed bike for everything I have thrown at it. One day I will buy a real road bike, and because of my great experiences with this one it will definitely be another CAAD.
Last edited by RIDE365; 06-07-16 at 05:01 PM.
#9778
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Oh, I plan on upgrading the tires as well. I was thinking the Ultegra Wheels when I upgrade wheels down the road. I may do tires and brakes at the same time.
#9779
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
I just posted this to the 'Show your bike' thread, but thought it should be here, too. This is my wife's 1993 Cannondale R2000 2.8 Series in Raceberry Fizz fade above my 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 4 Rival.
All I've done to mine is de-sticker the wheels and upgrade the tires. Love the bike! After a lot of research (especially on this forum), and a few test rides, I went in to the LBS to buy the 2012 CAAD10 5. Then I saw the Gulf Western racing colors on this bike, and had to have it. I'm just glad those colors weren't on the CAAD10 1 or 2 that year!
There's a much longer story to my wife's bike. It's probably a little big for her, but she loves it. Oh, and the photo is a little deceptive. Mine's a 58 cm, her's a 54.5.
#9780
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
Couple pages back, but damn that's sweet. Normally not a huge fan of gumwalls, but you nailed it on this one. The deep blue and white really set them off. Well done!
#9782
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: THAILAND
Bikes: CANNONDALE CAAD10
#9783
So much in love my CAAD10 #48 !!
After 3 Years, I am going to retire it in next 2 weeks, moving to EVO-HM2016.

After 3 Years, I am going to retire it in next 2 weeks, moving to EVO-HM2016.


It is another lovely bike. But, it is good to see a change from the caad10 after 3 years I suppose. Are you going to re-use anything from the 10 other than the crank set? The frame might come in handy with a build if I could get my hands on one! Would the evo be suitable for racing? I know some people say any bike will do but usually lightness would be an advantage. My dream bike is still the CAAD12 though while I am in love with the evo also!
#9784
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
I have a question about the 11-28 cassette and 52/36 crankset combination on the CAAD 12.
I live in Northwest Houston, and plan on traveling to Austin on occasion. As such I will be on roads with less than 5% gradient around 80-85% of the time, and roads with 5+% gradient around 15-20% of the time.
As such, would the drive train be adequate, or should I consider changing the crankset out down the road after I buy my bike?
I know Shimano has the following 105 cranksets:
50/34
52/36
53/39
And please excuse my ignorance when it comes to gear ratios, this will be my first non-starter bike, meaning non-entry level bike that is not purely dictated by price.
I live in Northwest Houston, and plan on traveling to Austin on occasion. As such I will be on roads with less than 5% gradient around 80-85% of the time, and roads with 5+% gradient around 15-20% of the time.
As such, would the drive train be adequate, or should I consider changing the crankset out down the road after I buy my bike?
I know Shimano has the following 105 cranksets:
50/34
52/36
53/39
And please excuse my ignorance when it comes to gear ratios, this will be my first non-starter bike, meaning non-entry level bike that is not purely dictated by price.
Last edited by therh; 06-09-16 at 07:39 PM.
#9785
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
I have a question about the 11-28 cassette and 52/36 crankset combination on the CAAD 12.
I live in Northwest Houston, and plan on traveling to Austin on occasion. As such I will be on roads with less than 5% gradient around 80-85% of the time, and roads with 5+% gradient around 15-20% of the time.
As such, would the drive train be adequate, or should I consider changing the crankset out down the road after I buy my bike?
I know Shimano has the following 105 cranksets:
50/34
52/36
53/39
And please excuse my ignorance when it comes to gear ratios, this will be my first non-starter bike, meaning non-entry level bike that is not purely dictated by price.
I live in Northwest Houston, and plan on traveling to Austin on occasion. As such I will be on roads with less than 5% gradient around 80-85% of the time, and roads with 5+% gradient around 15-20% of the time.
As such, would the drive train be adequate, or should I consider changing the crankset out down the road after I buy my bike?
I know Shimano has the following 105 cranksets:
50/34
52/36
53/39
And please excuse my ignorance when it comes to gear ratios, this will be my first non-starter bike, meaning non-entry level bike that is not purely dictated by price.
It really depends on your fitness level. I ride a 52/36 crank with an 11-28 cassette and I'm doing much more climbing than you are looking at. I think a 50/34 crank with an 11-28 cassette is great for all sorts of riding and if you are stressing about the hills, go for 50/34.
I switched to a 52/36 crank because I got a great deal on my crank but it was only in that ratio, I do not regret it at all. I actually did a 4100 ft climb after the swap. More experienced riders have called 52/36 the best compromise crank ratio for climbing and sprinting.
#9787
post-ironic
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: CAAD 12, Lemond Maillot Jaune
Bear in mind that Cannondale uses the BB30a standard, so not compatible with 24mm Shimano cranks unless you use an adaptor. The CAAD comes with so-called midcompact 52/36 FSA chainrings on the 105 setup and a 11-28 cassette. That should be perfectly fine for you. Any lower, and you have to purchase a long-cage derailleur to accommodate a 32 cog. Not worth it in my opinion.
#9789
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Bear in mind that Cannondale uses the BB30a standard, so not compatible with 24mm Shimano cranks unless you use an adaptor. The CAAD comes with so-called midcompact 52/36 FSA chainrings on the 105 setup and a 11-28 cassette. That should be perfectly fine for you. Any lower, and you have to purchase a long-cage derailleur to accommodate a 32 cog. Not worth it in my opinion.
Sounds good, and I was looking at some of the other bikes and it seems that the combination is more common than I thought.
And so though I think about moving to Shimano they do make this. https://www.competitivecyclist.com/wh...er-for-shimano
But the less I spend on that, the more I can save for wheels then.
#9790
post-ironic
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: CAAD 12, Lemond Maillot Jaune
And so though I think about moving to Shimano they do make this. Wheels Mfg BB30 Adapter For Shimano | Competitive Cyclist
#9791
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Now that all the CAAD9s are 6 or more years old, how's the durability been for everyone?
I ask because Cannondale's paperwork with the bike hinted at it being a 2 year kind of frame. And, it's AL, and one can grab the seat stays and flex them in and out by hand. Theoretically such flexing is destroying the AL, as there is no amount which AL can flex without damage. As lightweight as it is, I imagine there is flex on the road too.
I remember way back when that it was said that the CAAD9 was one of the few frames to survive the EFBe test. It is not, however, currently listed in the EFBe database.
I ask because Cannondale's paperwork with the bike hinted at it being a 2 year kind of frame. And, it's AL, and one can grab the seat stays and flex them in and out by hand. Theoretically such flexing is destroying the AL, as there is no amount which AL can flex without damage. As lightweight as it is, I imagine there is flex on the road too.
I remember way back when that it was said that the CAAD9 was one of the few frames to survive the EFBe test. It is not, however, currently listed in the EFBe database.
Mine's about 6 years old or just over, though the parts hanging on the frame have changed a million times the frame itself is still going really strong, I have zero issues with it and structurally it's as sound now as it was the day I walked out the shop.
This bike has been raced in triathlons, crits, and done long haul without any problems, and as recently as two days ago I rode it in a group ride.
Don't mind the dirty rims.
#9793
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 465
Likes: 4
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL build, CAAD10, Bianchi Pista '13, Litespeed Antares '03
With BB30a traditional bb30 to 24 adaptors won't work, but Kogel, C-Bear and bbinfinite make special BBs for BB30a with Shimano cranks.
#9794
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
So I would need one of the following:
BB30A CANNONDALE SHIMANO CRANK 24MM CONVERSION BOTTOM BRACKET | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket
or
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/b...ectfit-shimano
correct?
BB30A CANNONDALE SHIMANO CRANK 24MM CONVERSION BOTTOM BRACKET | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket
or
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/b...ectfit-shimano
correct?
Last edited by therh; 06-10-16 at 02:05 PM.
#9795
Why is there not a thank button on these forums! That is a class photo and a class bike! The two contrast each other very well! What CAAD is it?Is it a CAAD10, looks very much like one in my newbie eyes! How much miles do you do on it? Where was that pic taken?
Yep, CAAD's are known for their good durability at least as far as I know anyway! Glad that you and the bike are still getting on very well! I will most likely be fighting with my first bike whenever I buy it. I will have to get used to all the bits and bobs I am not used to. But all will be well when I get used to the bike. I'd say it is pretty much the same with some, if not most people! But getting a new bike is also incredibly enjoyable! It held out for a group ride! That's the main thing! It would be quite embarrassing for me anyway if my bike just started to fall apart in front of everybody! Plus it would be dangerous!
Don't worry about not posting in a while! Better late than never! It's a nice 10! Ya, I will be getting my bike properly fit because it would make my rides much more comfortable.
Hiya.
Mine's about 6 years old or just over, though the parts hanging on the frame have changed a million times the frame itself is still going really strong, I have zero issues with it and structurally it's as sound now as it was the day I walked out the shop.
This bike has been raced in triathlons, crits, and done long haul without any problems, and as recently as two days ago I rode it in a group ride.
Don't mind the dirty rims.


Mine's about 6 years old or just over, though the parts hanging on the frame have changed a million times the frame itself is still going really strong, I have zero issues with it and structurally it's as sound now as it was the day I walked out the shop.
This bike has been raced in triathlons, crits, and done long haul without any problems, and as recently as two days ago I rode it in a group ride.
Don't mind the dirty rims.
Don't worry about not posting in a while! Better late than never! It's a nice 10! Ya, I will be getting my bike properly fit because it would make my rides much more comfortable.
#9796
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Hmm, I'm beginning to wonder elsewhere, sounds like it may be more money and time than it is worth.
Meaning perhaps I should consider a different bike if I want to run a Shimano crankset.
Or would I able to change the crankset with a different BB30a setup?
Thoughts?
Meaning perhaps I should consider a different bike if I want to run a Shimano crankset.
Or would I able to change the crankset with a different BB30a setup?
Thoughts?
Last edited by therh; 06-10-16 at 02:37 PM.
#9797
post-ironic
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 802
Likes: 1
From: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: CAAD 12, Lemond Maillot Jaune
If you're dead set on a Shimano crankset, it's probably not worth buying a CAAD. But the proprietary Cannondale cranksets are very, very good, even the entry-level ones. FSA cranks are fine, too, and at least some of them are compatible with BB30a.
#9798
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
By no means am I set on Shimano, I just want to know that I have options to change components once worn. Meaning are there other Cannondale options?
Last edited by therh; 06-10-16 at 02:55 PM.
#9799
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 465
Likes: 4
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL build, CAAD10, Bianchi Pista '13, Litespeed Antares '03
So I would need one of the following:
BB30A CANNONDALE SHIMANO CRANK 24MM CONVERSION BOTTOM BRACKET | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket
or
BB30A (73mm) DirectFit Shimano - BBInfinite
correct?
BB30A CANNONDALE SHIMANO CRANK 24MM CONVERSION BOTTOM BRACKET | kogel, bearings, ceramic, bicycle, bottom bracket
or
BB30A (73mm) DirectFit Shimano - BBInfinite
correct?
https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/b...ace-face-rotor
#9800
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 465
Likes: 4
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL build, CAAD10, Bianchi Pista '13, Litespeed Antares '03
The BB30A "standard" currently only compatible with cannondale's very own hollowgram crankset out of the box. You need special aftermarket BBs for sram / rotor / fsa / shimano cranks. I'm sure that hollowgram is awesome, but I think it's quite expensive. On the other hand I'm a blind shimano fan, so don't listen to me.




