Help with my front derailleur...
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
From: Westbrook, Maine
Bikes: 2011 Litespeed M-1, 1991 Raleigh Technium (Commuter)
Help with my front derailleur...
I tried to be a "mechanic" and didn't really know what I was doing. It's a 105 dereailer, and I took the two screws out of the top of it, hoping I could turn it just slightly because the chain was rubbing on the left side of the derailer while I was on my tallest gear in the back.
After realizing that I shouldn't have messed with the two screws at all, I can't get one of them screwed all the way down. It only goes 90% of the way down, and I've kind of stripped it. And therefore, my front dereailer won't even shift at all. I can't even move the lever.
However, with both of the screws not even in there, it shifts just fine. Why is that so? And how much harm will I do if I leave them out until Monday when my LBS can get it in to look at it? I'm hoping to still be able to do a couple more rides.
After realizing that I shouldn't have messed with the two screws at all, I can't get one of them screwed all the way down. It only goes 90% of the way down, and I've kind of stripped it. And therefore, my front dereailer won't even shift at all. I can't even move the lever.
However, with both of the screws not even in there, it shifts just fine. Why is that so? And how much harm will I do if I leave them out until Monday when my LBS can get it in to look at it? I'm hoping to still be able to do a couple more rides.
#2
Who is Austin Dunbar?

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 270
Likes: 8
From: SE Iowa
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Surly Midnight Special, Lynskey Helix Disc
I tried to be a "mechanic" and didn't really know what I was doing. It's a 105 dereailer, and I took the two screws out of the top of it, hoping I could turn it just slightly because the chain was rubbing on the left side of the derailer while I was on my tallest gear in the back.
After realizing that I shouldn't have messed with the two screws at all, I can't get one of them screwed all the way down. It only goes 90% of the way down, and I've kind of stripped it. And therefore, my front dereailer won't even shift at all. I can't even move the lever.
However, with both of the screws not even in there, it shifts just fine. Why is that so? And how much harm will I do if I leave them out until Monday when my LBS can get it in to look at it? I'm hoping to still be able to do a couple more rides.
After realizing that I shouldn't have messed with the two screws at all, I can't get one of them screwed all the way down. It only goes 90% of the way down, and I've kind of stripped it. And therefore, my front dereailer won't even shift at all. I can't even move the lever.
However, with both of the screws not even in there, it shifts just fine. Why is that so? And how much harm will I do if I leave them out until Monday when my LBS can get it in to look at it? I'm hoping to still be able to do a couple more rides.
#3
At least I'm not a poseur
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, USA.
Bikes: Giant Defy 3
First and foremost, you get a little LOL.
(but only because I've basically done this before)
Anyway, those screws are only "limit" screws that stop the derailler from going too far in either direction. (one screw for each direction).
The reason it won't shift at all with them both tightened down is that you've basically set the lower limit and the upper limit to the same thing, so there is no room for movement.
With both screws completely out, it should shift, but it's very likely that you'll throw your chain off the chainrings when you do it.
It's safe for you to just put the chain on one of the front chainrings (with your hand) and not to use the front derailler until you either get it sorted out or take it to a shop. Your back one should still shift fine.
(but only because I've basically done this before)Anyway, those screws are only "limit" screws that stop the derailler from going too far in either direction. (one screw for each direction).
The reason it won't shift at all with them both tightened down is that you've basically set the lower limit and the upper limit to the same thing, so there is no room for movement.
With both screws completely out, it should shift, but it's very likely that you'll throw your chain off the chainrings when you do it.
It's safe for you to just put the chain on one of the front chainrings (with your hand) and not to use the front derailler until you either get it sorted out or take it to a shop. Your back one should still shift fine.
#4
At least I'm not a poseur
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, USA.
Bikes: Giant Defy 3
Actually, to adjust what you were trying to adjust in the first place, you need to loosen that "other" bolt that attaches the entire contraption to the frame. You will be able to move it in either direction that way. But be careful, because you'll also be able to move it up or down with that bolt loose, so you may want to mark it with a piece of tape or something like that.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
From: Twin Cities, MN
Yeah those screws don't need to be all the way tight either. Since you said you stripped them out you may need to replace the screws or get a new FD.
There are lots of nice manuals online on how to adjust the FD, but basically you want to shift to the big cog in back, small ring in front, loosen the cable with the barrel adjusters until the cable is loose. Then set the low limit screw (the left one on the 105 I believe). You want the derailleur cage to just be almost touching the chain on the left side. Now that that's done shift to the small cog on the back and pull the wire tight with your hand. The FD should move over and push the chain up onto the big ring. You then set the right screw. You want the derailleur cage to almost touch on the right this time.
After this is done take up the slack with the barrel adjuster until the cable is taut.
There are lots of nice manuals online on how to adjust the FD, but basically you want to shift to the big cog in back, small ring in front, loosen the cable with the barrel adjusters until the cable is loose. Then set the low limit screw (the left one on the 105 I believe). You want the derailleur cage to just be almost touching the chain on the left side. Now that that's done shift to the small cog on the back and pull the wire tight with your hand. The FD should move over and push the chain up onto the big ring. You then set the right screw. You want the derailleur cage to almost touch on the right this time.
After this is done take up the slack with the barrel adjuster until the cable is taut.
#8
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Step away from the bike. Step far away.......
Then have someone else load it into their car and drive it to an LBS to have the front derailluer adjusted.
Then have someone else load it into their car and drive it to an LBS to have the front derailluer adjusted.
#10
unbelievable. you clearly have access to the internet (who doesnt?) why the hell would you just start pulling screws out of a device you know nothing about without first at least doing a quick look-up on how the thing works?
the others have covered what you did wrong, take this as an opportunity to read the park tools site or the shimano site and fix what you messed up, it will be a learning experience for you, dont just walk into the bike shop with your tail between your legs and admit defeat, man-up and fix your own mistakes, this isnt rocket science here.
the others have covered what you did wrong, take this as an opportunity to read the park tools site or the shimano site and fix what you messed up, it will be a learning experience for you, dont just walk into the bike shop with your tail between your legs and admit defeat, man-up and fix your own mistakes, this isnt rocket science here.
#11
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
unbelievable. you clearly have access to the internet (who doesnt?) why the hell would you just start pulling screws out of a device you know nothing about without first at least doing a quick look-up on how the thing works?
the others have covered what you did wrong, take this as an opportunity to read the park tools site or the shimano site and fix what you messed up, it will be a learning experience for you, dont just walk into the bike shop with your tail between your legs and admit defeat, man-up and fix your own mistakes, this isnt rocket science here.
the others have covered what you did wrong, take this as an opportunity to read the park tools site or the shimano site and fix what you messed up, it will be a learning experience for you, dont just walk into the bike shop with your tail between your legs and admit defeat, man-up and fix your own mistakes, this isnt rocket science here.

The park tool website is a great resource. I use it myself and feel a whole lot smarter after reading it.
#12
Senior Moment Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
From: Daly City, CA
Bikes: Specialized Allez Elite Double & 2008 Look 555
As slowandsteady mentioned above check out Park Tools website. Here is the link to the Park Tools Repair guide website:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/
I found the website to be better than their book.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/
I found the website to be better than their book.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 5
From: NYC
Bikes: Felt AR1, Cervelo S2
i just learned to do this myself. it's easier than you might think.
https://www.google.com/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
just watch a few of those, and you'll see that adjustment is easy.
one rule of thumb for bike maintenance: brute force is never the way. if something won't go in all the way, it's either in wrong, not greased, or it's not supposed to go in all the way.
https://www.google.com/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
just watch a few of those, and you'll see that adjustment is easy.
one rule of thumb for bike maintenance: brute force is never the way. if something won't go in all the way, it's either in wrong, not greased, or it's not supposed to go in all the way.
#14
Making a kilometer blurry
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 26,170
Likes: 93
From: Austin (near TX)
Bikes: rkwaki's porn collection
Yeah, I was going to post some simple der adjustment links and advice, but I think it's best to let your mechanic show you how to do this in the future. After he/she shows you and you pay for the adjustment, I advise you to take the bike off the stand, loosen the cable clamp and loosen the frame clamp completely, then start from scratch on your own, so you'll know how to do everything. (Do this practice while you're still in the shop)
Align der (up/down and rotation)
Set lower limit
Adjust cable
Set upper limit
Test and minor adjust cable
Align der (up/down and rotation)
Set lower limit
Adjust cable
Set upper limit
Test and minor adjust cable
#15
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
From: Westbrook, Maine
Bikes: 2011 Litespeed M-1, 1991 Raleigh Technium (Commuter)
Yeah those screws don't need to be all the way tight either. Since you said you stripped them out you may need to replace the screws or get a new FD.
There are lots of nice manuals online on how to adjust the FD, but basically you want to shift to the big cog in back, small ring in front, loosen the cable with the barrel adjusters until the cable is loose. Then set the low limit screw (the left one on the 105 I believe). You want the derailleur cage to just be almost touching the chain on the left side. Now that that's done shift to the small cog on the back and pull the wire tight with your hand. The FD should move over and push the chain up onto the big ring. You then set the right screw. You want the derailleur cage to almost touch on the right this time.
After this is done take up the slack with the barrel adjuster until the cable is taut.
There are lots of nice manuals online on how to adjust the FD, but basically you want to shift to the big cog in back, small ring in front, loosen the cable with the barrel adjusters until the cable is loose. Then set the low limit screw (the left one on the 105 I believe). You want the derailleur cage to just be almost touching the chain on the left side. Now that that's done shift to the small cog on the back and pull the wire tight with your hand. The FD should move over and push the chain up onto the big ring. You then set the right screw. You want the derailleur cage to almost touch on the right this time.
After this is done take up the slack with the barrel adjuster until the cable is taut.
This post was by far the best advice given to me in this thread, and I very much appreciate it. I was able to fix it on my own. I won't know that it's 100% fixed until I take it for a longer ride. I screwed the lower limit screw almost all the way down. But the screw on the right I found I had to loosen quite a bit. I started with it all the way down, couldn't move the shifter. I loosened it quite a bit, then a bit more... then a bit more until the chain smoothly shifted from the little ring to the big ring.
I will probably take it to work with me tomorrow on my commute to make damn sure I have it dialed in right.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ryanmm
Bicycle Mechanics
7
03-31-13 10:49 AM
Dibble Donkins
Mountain Biking
7
09-02-12 08:15 AM






