New Bike Question
#1
New Bike Question
So I'm getting back into biking after quite a few years of being a lazy *ss and need some advice from everybody. I'm deadset on a road bike and want to eventually work my way up to a full carbon frame bike but that's not important right now. I'm writing because I need advice on a new bike. All I had when I started riding were a couple of old schwinn road bikes from the early 90's and late 80's. Let's just they lacked the technology and abilities of today's bikes. I'm looking for used bikes on ebay, craigslist, etc but I'm not 100% sure what to look for and I'm really only familiar with two models that fit my price range. The trek 1.1. or 1.2 and the Giant Defy series. Are these good bikes that will last and handle a lot of riding? Are there other entry level bikes I should be looking for as well? I know I'd like a cannondale but I also know they tend to more expensive. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#3
first you need to know the size you need...this could be a bit confusing, if you know a good lbs they might help you out...you can always try measuring yourself. I find fit to be the most dificult part of buying a used bike....
1 year ago i bought a very nice road frame, painted decaled it and built it...then i realized the frame was too big 56x56 when im usualy a 52... i rode that bike and got used to it, but i knew a better fitting bike would help me a lot on longer hauls.
Whats your budget? can you wait and save a bit to buy a new bike?0
1 year ago i bought a very nice road frame, painted decaled it and built it...then i realized the frame was too big 56x56 when im usualy a 52... i rode that bike and got used to it, but i knew a better fitting bike would help me a lot on longer hauls.
Whats your budget? can you wait and save a bit to buy a new bike?0
#4
The size I need is a 56, 58, 60. I know that's a wide range but I know that I can also play with the seat post and saddle to make up for a small variance one way or another. I'm shooting for around 400 right now for a used bike. However, with all the holiday jobs out there I'm thinking about picking up a part timer just to fund the bike since I know I'll need shoes and a few other small things.
Last edited by gladiator13; 10-19-10 at 08:22 AM.
#6
yea there's a local shop that I've used for a long time for snowboards and bikes and I really trust those guys. I got size in their shop earlier this summer. All they carry is giant right now though so I don't want to limit myself if there are better options for the money.
#7
remember seat hight isn't the only variable when you descide fit....reach to handle bar is also very important...by no means am i a fit expert..but 56, 58, 60....you can be between two sizes....if your between three, then your probably in the middle....58..this is the single most important detail in your bike selection, forget about components, if your frame fits like a glove you can change components, but if the frame doesn't fit, you have wasted 400.00 in a bike youll eventually HAVE to get rid off.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 2
From: Antioch, IL
Bikes: 2013 Synapse 4
get the LBS to fit you correctly, well, at least get you close as they can with a quick fit (not the $300 2hr long fit job), that should be good enough to get you close... THEN see if they have a leftover 1.5, its a nice bike and a leftover should be a good price as well (seems like most shops around here have em in the ~$850-900 range)... also, don't rule out a specialized allez or secteur either... they have models in your price range also and are quite nice... price range to price range, each manufacturer is going to have a bike of similar spec, get the one you like most and get the best deal on... odds are you're gonne be happy with about anything you look at in that price range from any of the big makers... good luck!!
#10
Get at least a carbon fork.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
So I'm getting back into biking after quite a few years of being a lazy *ss and need some advice from everybody. I'm deadset on a road bike and want to eventually work my way up to a full carbon frame bike but that's not important right now. I'm writing because I need advice on a new bike. All I had when I started riding were a couple of old schwinn road bikes from the early 90's and late 80's. Let's just they lacked the technology and abilities of today's bikes. I'm looking for used bikes on ebay, craigslist, etc but I'm not 100% sure what to look for and I'm really only familiar with two models that fit my price range. The trek 1.1. or 1.2 and the Giant Defy series. Are these good bikes that will last and handle a lot of riding? Are there other entry level bikes I should be looking for as well? I know I'd like a cannondale but I also know they tend to more expensive. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#12
total Newbie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 7
From: Toronto
Bikes: 2009 Look 566 Ultegra
forget the 1.1, get the 1.2. and get sized.
i bought my 52cm 1.2 wsd off craigslist and it was an improper fit. my new bike is fitted to me and it's a 53cm frame...seems like no difference at all but it feels completely different because they adjusted the stem length among other things.
1cm difference only and its such a comfortable ride. my old bike, i used to get numbness on my left arm shooting from my elbow right to my finger tips...and it'd last hours even after ride....can't be good for business.
i bought my 52cm 1.2 wsd off craigslist and it was an improper fit. my new bike is fitted to me and it's a 53cm frame...seems like no difference at all but it feels completely different because they adjusted the stem length among other things.
1cm difference only and its such a comfortable ride. my old bike, i used to get numbness on my left arm shooting from my elbow right to my finger tips...and it'd last hours even after ride....can't be good for business.
#15
That was the difference.
Al is VERY STIFF. It transfers all the imperfections of the road into your wrists/arms/body. It will be miserable to ride long distances.
Carbon absorbs vibrations, absorbs, mitigates it, worth the price premium.
Al is VERY STIFF. It transfers all the imperfections of the road into your wrists/arms/body. It will be miserable to ride long distances.
Carbon absorbs vibrations, absorbs, mitigates it, worth the price premium.
#16
Is a carbon fork something I could easily upgrade to though? I'm debating the costs of buying a bike like the 1.5 that has the components already there vs a 1.1 that would require me a drop a few bucks in it to make it mine and have the right upgrades.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 2
From: Antioch, IL
Bikes: 2013 Synapse 4
rarely is it ever cheaper to buy in then upgrade later... almost always cheaper to buy in up front to a higher level... i've said before a thousand times... I can't afford to buy cheap stuff. ie. I can't buy something i'm going to need/want to replace in a year, I have to buy something that I can be happy with and will last for a good deal of time... sometimes it forces me to delay purchases a bit longer than I'd want, but in the long run having nicer stuff allows me to enjoy things more and for a longer period of time before i need a replacement...
#18
You could easily upgrade the fork, but it is not cost effective to upgrade an entry level bike. It is cheaper to get the bike with the components that you will not feel compelled to upgrade. Ride upgrades, don't buy upgrades.
#19
Carbon forks range $300-500. Half the cost of the entire entry level bike alone.
+ potentially an LBS fee to install.
+ figuring out length, rake, and other geometry details to not fubar the handling characteristic.
#20
Thanks for all the input everybody. A shop in town has a trek 1.5 in 58 so I'm just going to forget riding outside this season and try to get that bike on layaway and chip away at it for a couple months. "ride upgrades, don't buy upgrades" sounds like good sentiment. I know a good bike will only make me want to use it that much more.
I'm still open to any other information you guys can offer or things I should watch out for.
I'm still open to any other information you guys can offer or things I should watch out for.
#21
so I've decided on a trek 1.5 and now I just have to pick between the black 2011 and white 2010. the only difference between the two is that the 2010 white one has 3 gears up front and its 875 while the black one has 2 gears up front and is 1000. Is there anything there I should worry about between two or three gears?
#23
total Newbie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 7
From: Toronto
Bikes: 2009 Look 566 Ultegra
The triple up front is great if you live in a really hilly region.
Can I ask you a question? If you're so cash strapped, why are you getting the 1.5 over the 1.2? Just curious the reasoning on THAT bike.
Can I ask you a question? If you're so cash strapped, why are you getting the 1.5 over the 1.2? Just curious the reasoning on THAT bike.
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Fed way, WA
Bikes: Bianchi Ducati 900 XR. 14.72 pounds as it sits.
Here's my input. Most of us will probably hold on to bikes for some years. I went with spending a few more $$$$ than I had planned. In the end, I got what I wanted and ride it every single day now. It's only been a week but I look forward to my next ride. So if you can spend more now do it, and not regret it later.
#25
the 1.5 has the better shifters that will allow to up and down shift from a variety of hand positions as well as better hardware all around. I think I'll take your advice and go with the 2010. For my skill level getting back to biking I think the three gears up front will definitely help me out.




