How much of a difference does a carbon fork make?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 635
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: CAAD10 5, Trek 1000 Alpha Series
How much of a difference does a carbon fork make?
I have a Trek 1000 Alpha series frame that is all aluminum. I'm not so concerned with saving weight but if I upgraded the fork to carbon would my ride be dramatically smoother?
#6
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Seacoast, NH
Bikes: Chinook travel/gravel/family tandem, Chinook all-road, Motobecane fatbike
Switch to slightly larger tires if you can fit them. Lower the pressure in your tires. Don't replace your fork unless it's a safety hazard (deep rust, cracked welds, crash damage, etc). If you do replace the fork eventually, stick with steel unless you're trying to save weight.
#8
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From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Despite the postings so far, the majority of people here feel a CF fork makes a difference in ride and comfort. Do some searches and you'll get a better feel for what people say and think about CF forks. Just about every new road bike sold now has CF forks, including frames made of Ti, steel and Al.
#10
Certifiable Bike "Expert"

Joined: May 2005
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Should be a little smoother for the hands, but not any kinder to your butt. Hopefully, it will be an efficient weight savings too.
How much is real vs. how much is placebo is impossible to tell. I'm generally skeptical, but I believe in the CF fork...
How much is real vs. how much is placebo is impossible to tell. I'm generally skeptical, but I believe in the CF fork...
#11
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Worcester, England, United Kingdom
Bikes: Ribble 531C/Shimano 600 (pre ultegra)
Good evening
When I was at school I saved my paper round money for a long time to change from 27 * 1/4, an old UK wheel spec, to tubulars and I couldn't tell the difference.
This was a change from wide and squishish to narrow and hard, but go on and try to bend a fork, steel or CF and then press your front tire. There is so much compliance within the tire that the fork's construction really doesn't matter.
Bye
Ian Smith
When I was at school I saved my paper round money for a long time to change from 27 * 1/4, an old UK wheel spec, to tubulars and I couldn't tell the difference.
This was a change from wide and squishish to narrow and hard, but go on and try to bend a fork, steel or CF and then press your front tire. There is so much compliance within the tire that the fork's construction really doesn't matter.
Bye
Ian Smith
#12
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
aquateen, Just to add emphasis to most of the above, I have two aluminum bikes that have nearly identical frames, the same tires, but different forks, one CF and one aluminum. They're very much the same WRT smoothness.
You don't need to run tires at max pressure, my 190 lbs. works just fine on 23C tires at 100 PSI.
Brad
You don't need to run tires at max pressure, my 190 lbs. works just fine on 23C tires at 100 PSI.
Brad
#13
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
obviously, if you ride on super smooth roads, there won't be a huge difference between a CF and a steel/aluminum fork. likewise, a CF fork will not help much if you encounter massive potholes. however, for general urban/street riding where the street surfaces are somewhat degraded or inconsistent, the difference for me was night and day (keeping the same tires, psi). i agree that similar comfort enhancements may be achieved by changing to larger tires (e.g., from 23 to 25 or 28) or lowering the psi (beware of pinch flats, especially if you are a bigger rider).
#15
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From: Antioch, IL
Bikes: 2013 Synapse 4
just need to be aware that absorbing vibrations (ie road buzz) is significantly different than the shock induced from potholes, road cracks, and etc... the buzz will get better with carbon fork, but it certainly isn't a cure all... personally I wouldn't do it...
#16
Don't Believe the Hype

Joined: Feb 2002
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From: chicagoland area
Bikes: 1999 Steelman SR525, 2002 Lightspeed Ultimate, 1988 Trek 830, 2008 Scott Addict
You can upgrade your stem, seatpost, psi changes, handlebars. Any and all changes would be as good or not specifically better for you.
#18
Carbon might be slightly better but I agree with the guys telling you to run less pressure and het fatter tires. I'd get a set of 25mm GP4000's and rub them at the low end appropriate for your weight. Save your pennies for a new bike down the road (with carbon fork).
Putting a cf fork on your bike would be a waste of money and effort. Softer riding tires should do the trick.
Putting a cf fork on your bike would be a waste of money and effort. Softer riding tires should do the trick.
#19
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
I made the change to a carbon fork from an aluminum fork on a vintage 91 Cannondale R400. The difference was significant. Much smoother, less vibration with less stress on the arms (due to less vibration). But, it's important to note the fork came from a 2.8 Cannondale that had the same rake as the fork I removed so the handling of the bike was not affected by the change. As was stated before, it didn't help my butt with the stiff ride of that frame.
I just added a carbon seat post to my Cannondale SR500. I didn't expect much of an improvement, it was in the parts bin so I made the change. I was wrong, after 50 miles I could feel the difference, the carbon post stays on.
I just added a carbon seat post to my Cannondale SR500. I didn't expect much of an improvement, it was in the parts bin so I made the change. I was wrong, after 50 miles I could feel the difference, the carbon post stays on.
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