You can't.

If going through all the bother with a $2k racing wheelset, you would be better served to go tubular. 1650 grams seems light until you compare it to the 1278 grams of the tubular version. That's almost a full pound less weight and the "hassle" of tubulars doesn't really apply to race wheels.

And I wouldn't even think of using a $1-2k wheelset as an "everyday" wheelset. I save the everyday stuff for the $250 32 spoke sets I get from Performance.

OP, what is the purpose of said wheels? Climbing, sprinting, training?

Yes, great wheels. Be more specific to what you need them for though.

That's what I used to think, until I rode and raced Zipp 404 clinchers for a year. I love the tubulars, I still use them, but man they can be a friggin monumental pain in the ass. The only time the lighter weight really seems to matter is going up grades that are 7%+, or maybe sprinting up hill. Those 404 clinchers are fast, and in some respects the heavier weight almost seems to lend them momentum on the flats and down hills. Amazing wheels, you'd have to ride them for a while to get the picture. I like having that aero wheel but not having to worry about it when I'm out on an 80 mile day.

For pure racing, where flat repair isn't an issue, tubulars are hard to argue with. Do what Uncle Pcad does. Own both. 404 tubulars (used a couple of years back on eBay for $1200 or so) and 404 clinchers with a Powertap (from Psimet last year, new).

How do 404s match up against HEDs? Looking at the HED site, their comparable wheels appear to have lower drag than 404s.

Only Authentic Zipps will do, accept no Zubstitute.

If you want to be comfortable and safe on your race wheels you should train at least some of the time on them. Your average roadie may only want to spring for one set of carbons and for this reason they'll likely be clinchers unless you're happy training on tubulars - most people don't want the hassle.

Of course the ideal (as explained by CDR, of course) is to have two complete carbon wheelsets (clincher and tubular) and a low profile front for windy days.

Why not? I use Zipps "everyday" the the last four years and haven't touched them. They still are perfectly true in spite of the crummy roads we have in No. Va.

If you can't buy used then why not get the new 404 full carbon?

I might be biased since I live on Oregon and the wet weather causes rims to wear out quite readily. If you don't ride in the rain, then I suppose anything will do.

Or, you can just be half way decent at riding your bike and race more than twice a year. This last season, I raced over 30 road/crit races. My "race only" equipment got a fair bit of use.

And there is, of course, the old school trick of carrying a spare tubular tire under your saddle when you do go out on your race wheels.

I understand and I used to think that way to. Then I realized that I was riding on a $1800 aluminum set with a PT and it was actually cheaper to get a used 2010 404 set on ebay ($1300). Replacement rims are about $750 which is doable if it breaks. Considering going direct to China for some spares but their weights are high.

Not following the math. $1800 is expensive for an aluminum wheelset even if it does have a powertap; it's at least obviously brand-y new MSRP. Comparing that to a 2010 404 used wheelset sold at below market value (most ebay prices are just a bit below $2k). And that is without a powertap. And your single replacement rim is the cost of three OP/ultegra training wheelsets. If this is not apples to oranges comparison, then I don't know what is.

And aluminum rims are less than $100. And they don't break in crashes, they just wear out with use. Rebuilding the training wheel after the rim wears out is about $60-120 in labor, or it's pretty easy to do yourself.

Because they list for $2700 or $2800 and it's hard to find them for <$2500. They are overpriced.

They will be easier and cheaper to buy next year for a number of reasons.

I have a pair of 303 clinchers and absolutely love them, I intend to get a pair of 404s sometime in the future for a new bike build.
Unlike some other posters I would use them everyday, why pay so much money for something and only use them on high days and holidays.
I use my 303s 12 months a year and they have stood up very well so far.
In my opinion Zipp is a great brand and when people post about how expensive they are and that you should buy this that or the other brand it smacks of sour grapes or jealousy to me.
I'd get them, you won't regret it.

Check out the new Easton EC90SL full carbon clinchers. Quite a bit cheaper than Zipps, full carbon clinchers, ceramic bearings. We have a set at the shop and boy are they nice wheels.

This looks like a deal, anyone buy from them?

https://www.departmentofgoods.com/eas...wheel-set-700c

'09s for $1,700. shipped.
(tubular)
Good deal?

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_304652

I love that sort of thinking!

Cheers!

$300+ too high.

I saw the new Zipp 404 all carbon clinchers used on eBay yesterday with a Buy It Now of $1500. I'd buy those if I was in the market.

I'm going to go with a set of Ksyrium Elites for my CAAD9 for the winter,
then I'll break the piggy bank for a set of Zipps in the Spring.
Then, after that, she'll only need a set of Hollowgrams to be complete.

Why settle for Zipp, when you go with Edge (Enve now)?

^Post designed to ruffle Pcad's peacock feathers.