Which Wheels To Get
#1
Which Wheels To Get
Mavic Cosmic Elite Wheelset 2011
Easton EA90 TT Wheelset 2010
Mavic Ksyrium Equipe Wheelset 2011
All these wheels are right around the same price and seem to have similar features. What are the differences between them and what is the best buy. These will not be for racing but I want a nice set of wheels to go for solo and group rides.
Easton EA90 TT Wheelset 2010
Mavic Ksyrium Equipe Wheelset 2011
All these wheels are right around the same price and seem to have similar features. What are the differences between them and what is the best buy. These will not be for racing but I want a nice set of wheels to go for solo and group rides.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,454
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Will you consider other wheels and how much do you weigh? And are you leaning more towards aero wheels or light wheels?
Heavier riders will want stronger wheels. To make a wheel strong you can get a stronger rim, higher spoke count, or most importantly, quality hand built wheels.
Mavic and Easton make goods wheels. If can afford it, I think handbuilt wheels by a good or professional wheel builder will be better and last longer. You're also given the option to customize your wheels a little bit.
Since you're not racing, I think durability should be your main concern. A lot of people recommend the Open Pro Rims with Ultegra hubs and DT Swiss spokes (32,32). It's a good combination for a durable wheel but at the cost of weight and some aerodynamics. Kinlin Rims (27 or 30mm) with hubs (White Industries?) and spokes (CX Rays?) (28,24) make a good wheelset, but may cost a little more.
Heavier riders will want stronger wheels. To make a wheel strong you can get a stronger rim, higher spoke count, or most importantly, quality hand built wheels.
Mavic and Easton make goods wheels. If can afford it, I think handbuilt wheels by a good or professional wheel builder will be better and last longer. You're also given the option to customize your wheels a little bit.
Since you're not racing, I think durability should be your main concern. A lot of people recommend the Open Pro Rims with Ultegra hubs and DT Swiss spokes (32,32). It's a good combination for a durable wheel but at the cost of weight and some aerodynamics. Kinlin Rims (27 or 30mm) with hubs (White Industries?) and spokes (CX Rays?) (28,24) make a good wheelset, but may cost a little more.
#3
I'm about 170 - 175 ish. I'm leaning towards the Aero wheels.
Mainly I'm wondering, for example, the two Mavic's I posted. They are similar in price yet two different style wheels. The description doesn't make it clear what makes them unique from each other. Curious as to what the advantage is from one over the other.
Mainly I'm wondering, for example, the two Mavic's I posted. They are similar in price yet two different style wheels. The description doesn't make it clear what makes them unique from each other. Curious as to what the advantage is from one over the other.
#5
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24,587
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
I have been very disappointed with Mavic wheels over the past 10 years. That being said, the Cosmic Elite is an older design and slightly more aero (should be 30mm deep, not 19mm). The Ksyrium is a newer design and touts being "light", although 1600g does not qualify as a light wheelset in my book.
So, among the three, I highly recommend the Eastons. Everybody I know on that brand is quite happy. However, I still agree with ptle that a quality custom set would cost about the same and meet your desired specs. At your weight, you would be happy with a Kinlin XR-270 rim with 24 spokes up front and 28 in the back. White Industry hubs for high quality or Novatec/Formula to cut costs but still have a decent set of hubs. That would be very sturdy yet reasonably light. Psimet.com is a highly recommended builder with these components.
So, among the three, I highly recommend the Eastons. Everybody I know on that brand is quite happy. However, I still agree with ptle that a quality custom set would cost about the same and meet your desired specs. At your weight, you would be happy with a Kinlin XR-270 rim with 24 spokes up front and 28 in the back. White Industry hubs for high quality or Novatec/Formula to cut costs but still have a decent set of hubs. That would be very sturdy yet reasonably light. Psimet.com is a highly recommended builder with these components.
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#6
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
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Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
Low spoke counts require a stronger rim, and strengthening the rim enough to match the lost spokes usually results in more weight than the lost spokes. The worst part of that is that breaking a spoke on a low count wheel has a higher risk of the wheel coming too out of true to continue riding. I'm happy that although my 28 spoke wheels (that weigh 1375g/pair, by the way) should never break a spoke, I can likely just wrap the broken one around its neighbor and continue riding should that ever happen.
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#8
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2002
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
This makes sense intuitively, but I find it hard to believe that a certain rim (Velocity Aerohead) in 32h would weight any different than a 28h version.
#9
Young, Stupid, Bold.
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 169
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From: Davis, Ca
Bikes: LiteSpeed Ultimate, BMC SLT01 Team Machine
https://www.williamscycling.com/sys30/sys30.html
or the william's 19s.
cheap and fun, just like a good date.
or the william's 19s.
cheap and fun, just like a good date.
#10
That's not what he meant. His point was more along the lines of... a 20-spoke Velocity Deep-V will weigh more than a 28-spoke Velocity Aerohead.
#11
Low spoke counts require a stronger rim, and strengthening the rim enough to match the lost spokes usually results in more weight than the lost spokes. The worst part of that is that breaking a spoke on a low count wheel has a higher risk of the wheel coming too out of true to continue riding. I'm happy that although my 28 spoke wheels (that weigh 1375g/pair, by the way) should never break a spoke, I can likely just wrap the broken one around its neighbor and continue riding should that ever happen.
#12
Peloton Shelter Dog
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 90,508
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From: Chester, NY
Bikes: 2017 Scott Foil, 2016 Scott Addict SL, 2018 Santa Cruz Blur CC MTB
I rode my 2006 Ksyrium ES wheels (the last pair of Mavic wheels I have left) at last 20,000 miles. Now the rims are so worn they're cupped, I'm waiting for the replacement wheels. now. But they never needed truing in all that time. I think I may have had the bearings on the rear hub repacked once. Amazing hoops. That being said there are lighter wheels out there. I'm not sure they'll be that bulletproof however. We'll find out.
#13
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24,587
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
I've always wondered about the low spoke count thing. Does spoke count affect aerodynamics much, given the same rim? I'm aware that the aerodynamics of a deeper rim generally come from the fact that there is just less spoke length exposed in the frontal profile, but for many of these 30mm rim wheels (which is hardly aero), it seems that a 16-spoke front is frivolous considering the weight of the rim itself.
I rode my 2006 Ksyrium ES wheels (the last pair of Mavic wheels I have left) at last 20,000 miles. Now the rims are so worn they're cupped, I'm waiting for the replacement wheels. now. But they never needed truing in all that time. I think I may have had the bearings on the rear hub repacked once. Amazing hoops. That being said there are lighter wheels out there. I'm not sure they'll be that bulletproof however. We'll find out.
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#14
Technically, a 32 hole Velocity Aerohead should weigh less than a 28 hole. The rim should weigh the same before the holes are drilled, but by drilling holes, that reduces the mass in the rim and more holes means more mass removed. Though the difference should be minimal.
And as far as aero and depth, I saw somewhere once - can't find it now, sorry, - that the aero affect tends to plateau as you get deeper. Meaning the aero difference between 20 mm rim and 30 mm is much greater than between 30mm and 40mm.
Lastly, I've have owned four sets of Mavic wheels - Aksiums (temporary wheels picked up cheap that now serve as back-up/pit wheels), Elites (sold several years ago), SLs and CrossMax's - and have nothing bad to say about them. They are not necessarily the lightest, or most aero (Ksyriums suck in a crosswind), but they have been durable and easy to repair.
And as far as aero and depth, I saw somewhere once - can't find it now, sorry, - that the aero affect tends to plateau as you get deeper. Meaning the aero difference between 20 mm rim and 30 mm is much greater than between 30mm and 40mm.
Lastly, I've have owned four sets of Mavic wheels - Aksiums (temporary wheels picked up cheap that now serve as back-up/pit wheels), Elites (sold several years ago), SLs and CrossMax's - and have nothing bad to say about them. They are not necessarily the lightest, or most aero (Ksyriums suck in a crosswind), but they have been durable and easy to repair.
#15
ah.... sure.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,107
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From: Whidbey Island WA
Bikes: Specialized.... schwinn..... enough to fill my needs..
#16
South Carolina Ed

Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Greer, SC
Bikes: Holdsworth custom, Macario Pro, Ciocc San Cristobal, Viner Nemo, Cyfac Le Mythique, Giant TCR, Tommasso Mondial, Cyfac Etoile
Build your own wheels. It's really pretty easy. Do the research, learn something useful, and save some money - now and in the future. You'll also get smarter.
#17
Hmm, this study would be interesting to see. It goes against the whole "you don't get aero until 40-50mm+" argument.
#18
However, there are a lot of places that will handbuild wheels for cheaper than you can build them yourself. ProWheelBuilder and UniversalCycles, to name a few, will build wheels for the price of the parts, and both places are extremely competitively priced. Though I personally think that building my own wheels is worth it even if it's just for the learning experience.







