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Putting my bike on a diet

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Old 02-25-12, 03:37 PM
  #2301  
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too heavy.
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Old 02-25-12, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by X-LinkedRider
Dremel's are awesome!
agree. i used a dremel with the long flex adapter and wire brush down my seat tube then blew air threw the hole in the bb and out came rust powder cloud. bet that cut a couple grams lol.

im trying to cut the weight on my ss conversion mtb but its a budget build so far ive striped all paint from the frame/fork and gave it a light primer coating. i removed 3lbs off the thing by stripping it an hope the repaint will be light as my primer was less than 1/4lb added back onto the frame/fork. ive been using my scales a ton to weigh every part i own to pick the lightest parts i can. (im avoiding buying any parts if i can; mostly recycling what i have. i still have a bit more to figure out but so far ive cut the weight of the pile of components that was the bike from 32lbs to around 25lbs and im hoping to drop it a bit lower. i know compaired to most of the weight watchers this is heavy but i want no more than $50 into this and have already spent $20 on new tires that the pair weighs less than one of the old tires. im thinking the rest of the budget will go to a lighter seat post because the stock steel one weight a ton (cant remember the number).

nice to know im not the only nut building light.

a buddy of mine just built a ss road bike that weighs 10lbs compleat. i want it.

btw sorry i dont use grams my schal only has lbs / oz

Last edited by whitefiretiger; 02-25-12 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 02-25-12, 04:23 PM
  #2303  
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Originally Posted by adriano
too heavy.
Speaking of which the stickers on my Zipp 404s were 16g.
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Old 02-25-12, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
I think I am going to get stickers like this made for my Trek's downtube. What do you guys think?

I like it.

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Old 02-25-12, 04:39 PM
  #2305  
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Originally Posted by whitefiretiger
btw sorry i dont use grams my schal only has lbs / oz
All you need to do is plug it into google and it will convert it for you. Syntax along the lines of "6 ounces pounds in grams" should give you an easy conversion.
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Old 02-25-12, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
I think I am going to get stickers like this made for my Trek's downtube. What do you guys think?

in combination with your white spoked spinergys? i love the thought!
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Old 02-25-12, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by thirdgenbird
in combination with your white spoked spinergys? i love the thought!

It's very close BTW thirdgen. I hope to spray the clear by the end of next week.
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Old 02-25-12, 05:19 PM
  #2308  
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I've settled on my tuning bits:
-Far And Near Front & Rear Derailleur Kit
-Carbon rear derailleur plate
-Carbon shifter name plates
-Aluminum bottle bolts (4)
-Titanium seat post clamp bolts (2)

I've scrapped plans to replace my silver Ti stem bolts with black Ti stem bolts.
First of all, it wouldn't be worth it and aesthetically, there's already silver there.

I've also decided that I'm done with weenieing for now.
The next time I weenie my bike, I'm going to go big.
Wheelset, handlebar & tuning for a drop into 14lb territory.

15.87lbs? I'm good.

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Old 02-25-12, 06:25 PM
  #2309  
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Originally Posted by 2ndGen
I've settled on my tuning bits:
-Far And Near Front & Rear Derailleur Kit
-Carbon rear derailleur plate
-Carbon shifter name plates
-Aluminum bottle bolts (4)
-Titanium seat post clamp bolts (2)

I've scrapped plans to replace my silver Ti stem bolts with black Ti stem bolts.
First of all, it wouldn't be worth it and aesthetically, there's already silver there.

I've also decided that I'm done with weenieing for now.
The next time I weenie my bike, I'm going to go big.
Wheelset, handlebar & tuning for a drop into 14lb territory.

15.87lbs? I'm good.

Don't get that F&N kit. You can do it yourself much cheaper with the chart I made and Jersey Cycles. Also the F&N kit uses heavy pulley wheels. Go the HK route, and you'll save more weight.
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Old 02-25-12, 07:15 PM
  #2310  
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
Don't get that F&N kit. You can do it yourself much cheaper with the chart I made and Jersey Cycles. Also the F&N kit uses heavy pulley wheels. Go the HK route, and you'll save more weight.
I tried it that way. It came out to about the same (about $90. either way).

The only savings in weight that I found on the jockey wheels is 10g/ea VS 9g/ea (2g per pair).
According to Fairwheel, one could expect -14g just from the rear bolts. The stock 7800
wheels are 30g, so there's another -10g. I believe I read that there's -10g for the front.
I know there are significant savings if I was to use carbon wheels, but I'd like to know
first how durable they are and how they hold up as compared to aluminum.

If you've ever done a full front & rear Shimano swap, what numbers did you get?
Is the mid-30g range good for such a swap? Or will buying individual pieces net
a greater gain?

Last edited by 2ndGen; 02-25-12 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 02-25-12, 07:44 PM
  #2311  
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I found these, but never heard of the company offering them: Acer Racing
Heavier than the HK's, but with ceramic bearings (15g w/caps).




But these would put my mind at ease. CNC and light (9.8g/pr).
2g more than carbon, but metal.

Extralite ExtraBolt 15


Last edited by 2ndGen; 02-25-12 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 02-25-12, 10:55 PM
  #2312  
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Well, I was going to purchase an Antares 00 today but after looking around for a bit, I settled on a Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow saddle and ordered it:


This will cut between 45-50 grams off from my Antares Kium saddle depending on how much it actually weighs when it shows up. Now, I just need to offload my not even two month old Antares.
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Old 02-25-12, 11:19 PM
  #2313  
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Originally Posted by SebastionMerckx
Well, I was going to purchase an Antares 00 today but after looking around for a bit, I settled on a Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow saddle and ordered it:


This will cut between 45-50 grams off from my Antares Kium saddle depending on how much it actually weighs when it shows up. Now, I just need to offload my not even two month old Antares.
I was just thinking, I need to buy a second one. Arione, doesn't work out so well with me I'm finding.
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Old 02-25-12, 11:42 PM
  #2314  
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Originally Posted by alpha_bravo
All you need to do is plug it into google and it will convert it for you. Syntax along the lines of "6 ounces pounds in grams" should give you an easy conversion.
Sorry I always forget about doing that. I also am not getting as down and dirty as a lot of you do and I can't understand going by grams when we state the full weight of our bikes we normal say something like 14.5 lbs not 6.6kg or 6600g it seems a bit weird to me in a way but I understand its way more accurate when you are going for the lightest of the light. Like a few of my parts (like my brake lever) almost make me want a new scale with grams because they barely register on my scale.

Last edited by whitefiretiger; 02-25-12 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 02-26-12, 12:07 AM
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Check Ribble. I just bought mine for under $180 shipped.Luckily for me, it seems a lot of saddles work. I've had an Arione,Antares, Selle Italia SLR, various Prologo saddles,etc. I've been lucky that most anything feels at least good enough not to hinder my ride. So with that said, I thought it was pointless to ride a 180 gram saddle when I could ride a 125-130 gram saddle that would feel just as nice.
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Old 02-26-12, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SebastionMerckx
Check Ribble. I just bought mine for under $180 shipped.Luckily for me, it seems a lot of saddles work. I've had an Arione,Antares, Selle Italia SLR, various Prologo saddles,etc. I've been lucky that most anything feels at least good enough not to hinder my ride. So with that said, I thought it was pointless to ride a 180 gram saddle when I could ride a 125-130 gram saddle that would feel just as nice.
The Arione, was okay at first, but now I am having numbness problems from it.
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Old 02-26-12, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
The Arione, was okay at first, but now I am having numbness problems from it.
Yeah, I actually had that problem on rides longer than 80 miles if I didn't stand up enough. It's the only saddle I've ever had that happen with that worked in every other situation.
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Old 02-26-12, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SebastionMerckx
Yeah, I actually had that problem on rides longer than 80 miles if I didn't stand up enough. It's the only saddle I've ever had that happen with that worked in every other situation.
I rode the rollers for about an hour today, and it started. Not good.
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Old 02-26-12, 01:20 AM
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Just for confirmation, my Vuka Sprints (44 Traditional bend with ends cut to inside lines) came in at 234g! They sure are pretty though. SA, did you have any trouble routing the interior the cableing?
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Old 02-26-12, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
I rode the rollers for about an hour today, and it started. Not good.

rollers alway make it worse or amplify any would-be problems w/ the saddle you normally wouldn't have right away out on the road.

on the WW side of things, I just ordered a giro aeon helmet- tried it on at a shop and OMG. Not to mention the fit was incredible. Also a bit of payback w/ that shop. A few years ago I had a spoke break on a reynolds dv46 - they're a high end shop so I called over (as they sold reynolds wheels) and they told me it wasn't worth their time to fix it. So, I went into their shop, tried on the helmet, but then decided it wasn't worth my time to purchase it there (ok- that and I ended up paying $159 shipped) instead of $249 plus tax.
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Old 02-26-12, 07:41 AM
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I just bought my first Campagnolo part ever. It's small, but in theory it should be lighter, and preform better, than the original Trek part made of stainless steel.



I'm also thinking now, I'd like to possibly do something different with the cables stops. Not sure what, but I am thinking there has to be a way to improve upon the current setup.
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Old 02-26-12, 08:56 AM
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This came stock on my new frame:



Any suggestions? I think its made of lead...
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Old 02-26-12, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
I just bought my first Campagnolo part ever. It's small, but in theory it should be lighter, and preform better, than the original Trek part made of stainless steel.



I'm also thinking now, I'd like to possibly do something different with the cables stops. Not sure what, but I am thinking there has to be a way to improve upon the current setup.
thats funny, in my last post i nearly included a portion trying to convince you to dabble with campy on the trek. (i was thinking record 10 shifters and derailleurs)
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Old 02-26-12, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by thirdgenbird
thats funny, in my last post i nearly included a portion trying to convince you to dabble with campy on the trek. (i was thinking record 10 shifters and derailleurs)
Nah, I am just putting the old paid for Force group back on it. I still want to try Campy, but it would go on my main bike, not the beater. I've been coveting SR11 for quite some time.
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Old 02-26-12, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Soloist Assassin
Nah, I am just putting the old paid for Force group back on it. I still want to try Campy, but it would go on my main bike, not the beater. I've been coveting SR11 for quite some time.
I'm going to start picking up misc Campy bits as I find them on super sale. Still undecided on whether I'll put it on the Xenith or if it'll wait for the next bike...
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