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A different thought on frame sizing.

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A different thought on frame sizing.

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Old 03-23-05 | 03:13 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by seely
I figured it out once, and the actually difference between a 170mm crank and a 175mm crank is something miniscule like .4"... I don't think it really makes as big a difference as some might lead you to believe. As for cornering clearance, if you are going hard into a corner, your inside leg is probably up anyways, so it doesn't really matter if you have 167's or 180's... they won't strike.
I can honestly say there is a huge difference between 170mm cranks and 165mm cranks for me. I'm 5'1 and with the 170's I can't seem to get a smooth cadence and climbs seem jerky yet with 165s I have no problems with climbs or cadence. Of course, it's amazing how hard it is to get components for the small end of the spectrum, it seems like they only cater to the tall people.
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Old 12-24-05 | 07:54 PM
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hmmm i am new to cycling, and i don't know much about frame sizing, but i was reading about this formula and it sounds like people are pleased with it. i read about a 5'10 1/2" persons frame size according to the forumula and he said it was perfect... 56-57cm. thats my exact height, but i know different inseams sizes can dictate the best frame size. my inseam length is 32". does this measurement seem ok for me?
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Old 12-24-05 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by seaniesharko
hmmm i am new to cycling, and i don't know much about frame sizing, but i was reading about this formula and it sounds like people are pleased with it. i read about a 5'10 1/2" persons frame size according to the forumula and he said it was perfect... 56-57cm. thats my exact height, but i know different inseams sizes can dictate the best frame size. my inseam length is 32". does this measurement seem ok for me?
You can't get fitted on the internet...only at a good LBS. The best size for you depends on your riding style, your age, your fitness level, your riding goals, and stuff such as the length of your torso and arms.

I ride "traditional" geometry road bikes from the 1980's...many 2006 road bikes have sloping top tubes, short head tubes, and other forms of modern "innovation"...some unique fitting problems.

I'm 5 feet 9 1/2 inches tall, with legs that measure 35 inches from the pubic bone to the floor. My slack's have a 32 inch inseam. I like to set up my bikes with the top of the bars at the same height as the saddle which enables me to ride with my back at a 45 degree angle relative to a horizontal top tube.

The "traditional" bikes that fit me best are between around size 57 and size 60. The taller the bike, the easier it is to get the bars up equal to the saddle. If I wanted to pretend to be Lance, and ride with my hands three inches lower than the saddle, I could buy a size 56 bike and hike up the seat post.
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Old 12-24-05 | 11:23 PM
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Interesting. I'm 5'7" and have a 54 cm Trek, which has always felt just a touch large.

So here's the heretical question. Why get a custom made frame if we generally fall into these groupings anyway?
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Last edited by SpongeDad; 12-25-05 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 12-25-05 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Moulton
After measuring and studying hundreds if not thousands of customer’s measurements over the years as a custom frame builder. I came to the conclusion that although human bodies are all different; they do follow certain rules of nature.

Tall people are not scaled up models of short people. Most of the height difference is in the legs; body length differs by a lesser proportion.

If you have long legs then you also have long arms. Short legs; short arms. This makes sense since most animals are four legged; why should we be any different?

Leg length is a combination of the inside leg measurement plus the length of the foot. Length of the foot is important because when pedaling the toe is pointed downward at the bottom of the pedal stroke; so the foot becomes an extension of the leg.

People, who have a short inside leg measurement for their height, generally have longer feet. (Bigger shoe size.) It is as if they were designed as a much taller person, but their heel got turned further up their leg; making a short leg, long foot.

Imagine two people both six feet tall standing side by side; one has a 34 inch inside leg, the other a 32 inch leg measurement. Because they are the same height it follows the one with the shorter leg has a body 2 inches longer; he also has longer feet and shorter arms than the other guy. They can both fit on the same size frame, (59 cm. center to top i.e. 57 center to center.)

They will both have close to the same seat height, because the short leg guy has a longer foot so his seat needs to go higher than his inseam would suggest. They can also use the same top tube length and handlebar stem, because one has short body long arms; the other long body, short arms; making their reach the same. Minor adjustments in seat height and stem length may be called for.

It has occurred to me that with these compact frames on the market now and only available in small, medium, and large; customers are only ball parking frame size anyway. It has long been my opinion that frame size is linked to the overall height of the rider more than any other measurement because of the rules of nature I have just spoken of.

So I have just formulated this based on my own frame sizing chart. If you are 5’ 3” to 5’ 5” frame size equals Height divide by 3.3. For people 5’ 6” to 5’ 10” frame size = Height divide by 3.2 and if you are 5’ 11” to 6’ 4” frame size = Height divide by 3.1

A example would be someone 6’ 2” = 74” divide this by 3.1 = 23.87 in. (61 cm. measured center to top. i.e. 59cm. center to center. A person 5’ 7” = 67” divide this by 3.2 = 20.93 in. (53cm. center to top. i.e. 51cm. center to center.) The easiest way to convert from inches to centimeters is to get a tape measure with both on and simply read across.

Reach which is top tube plus stem length; is frame size center to top plus 10cm. If you want something more accurate go to the chart on my website (Link below) go to ‘Bicycles’ page 6 ‘Bike tech.' That chart was derived not by any mathematical formula but by records of custom frames built over many years. Most people find it pretty accurate. The above is an attempt to come up with a simple formula that comes close to this. Please don’t change your position based on this alone because this is new thinking.

What I would like to know from everyone is; is this of any help or does it complicate things further and also does it come close to what you are riding now?
I believe what you write is insightful. You are in effect a frame fitting expert having fit a least a thousand riders. What you write makes physical sense though, short feet on shortish inseam tall people may not be the statistical norm, but perhaps it is as you say. I fit in your frame model quite well. I have long legs...std if not shortish torso and long arms at 6'1". My long arms do indeed compensate for my shortish torso. I therefore ride a pretty big bike for my size at 61cm c-t-t. But this is partially personal preference as well. I could ride a 59 which would be on the lower range or next frame size down for your formula including other formulas out there...but then I would have to live with almost a 20mm reduction in handlebar height which would be less comfortable for the type of riding I do. The old std. for fitting...like Rivendel uses for example is .67 X cycling inseam which has worked effectively for a great many for well over twenty years and also still works for me. This in effect is because of your insightful comments...that short torsos are generally offset by long arms and visa versa and therefore at the end of the day what matters is your saddle height which implicitly determines seat tube length and therefore head tube length for horizontal top tube conventional geometry bikes thereby dictating handlebar height. Your model is more comprehensive of course as are Competitive Cyclist and Wrenchscience fit calculators which base their sizing algorithms on measurements more then just inseam.
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
George

Last edited by biker7; 12-25-05 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 12-25-05 | 02:18 PM
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From: Okanagan Valley, BC CANADA

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I'm 171 cm (just a hair over 5'7"), have an 80.6 (31 3/4") inseam and wear size 43/44 9 1/2 shoes. I'm riding a Lemond classic steel frame 51 cm (C to C) with a 534 mm TT 170 mm Cranks and a 90mm 17-degree rise stem. I have the top of the saddle 72 cm above the BB center. On most frames I feel too stretched out with too much weight on my hands, so I'm not sure why the Lemond feels right, except the short (by your chart) stem with the 17d rise seems to make a big difference. There is 5 cm difference between the top of the saddle and the top of the handlebars. I'm 52 and not as flexible as I would have been 25 years ago. I don't see any thing in your chart about the rise on the stem?
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Old 12-25-05 | 02:29 PM
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From: Okanagan Valley, BC CANADA

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I'm trying to size a bike for my teenage daughter as a birthday present. Your chart appears to be largely for the male figure, but any way, her sizes are: 5'2" tall, 29 3/4" inseam, size 8 1/2 ladies runner. Dividing height by 3.3 gives ~48cm (18 3/4") but I know thats way too big for her. I think something around 42 - 44 in a ladies fit might work, what do you think. She would be a recreational weekend rider.
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Old 12-25-05 | 02:58 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by bccycleguy
I'm trying to size a bike for my teenage daughter as a birthday present. Your chart appears to be largely for the male figure, but any way, her sizes are: 5'2" tall, 29 3/4" inseam, size 8 1/2 ladies runner. Dividing height by 3.3 gives ~48cm (18 3/4") but I know thats way too big for her. I think something around 42 - 44 in a ladies fit might work, what do you think. She would be a recreational weekend rider.
HOLLY THREAD RESURECTION!

Anyway a 48 cm frame would be right for your daughter. I have an even shorter inseam than her and 48 cm is right for me. 48 cm is as small as a 700c wheeled bike frame can be genuinely made anyway. Without going into the gory details the 42 and 44 cm sizes are simply a 48 cm frame with the seat tube shortened and a sloping top tube so there a bit of a fudge anyway.

According to one of my favorite refferences your daughter could benifit from 160 mm cranks, https://www.cranklength.info/

Given the difficulty of finding them and there aproximity to 165 mm cranks that are available then these would be desirable.

I don't ride one myself but through looking at geometry online I've developed a respect for the FUJI Roubaix's as an excelent alrounder with good geometry. Note that I'm talking about the FUJI Roubaix and not the SPECIALIZED Roubaix.

Regards, Anthony

EDIT: OK its a 49cm frame not a 48 cm but that's fine. 700c bikes don't come any smaller anyway.

Last edited by AnthonyG; 12-25-05 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 12-25-05 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Moulton
What I would like to know from everyone is; is this of any help or does it complicate things further and also does it come close to what you are riding now?
Yes, it was helpful and interesting. At 6'3" it is pretty darn close to what I'm riding now (the formula says I should be riding a 61cm and I'm riding a 60cm).
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Old 12-25-05 | 03:18 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by skycat
I can honestly say there is a huge difference between 170mm cranks and 165mm cranks for me. I'm 5'1 and with the 170's I can't seem to get a smooth cadence and climbs seem jerky yet with 165s I have no problems with climbs or cadence. Of course, it's amazing how hard it is to get components for the small end of the spectrum, it seems like they only cater to the tall people.
I'm having a hard time finding compact cranksets with 165mm crank. Do you have any ideas where to look?
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Old 12-25-05 | 03:27 PM
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From: Queanbeyan, Australia.
Originally Posted by Snicklefritz
I'm having a hard time finding compact cranksets with 165mm crank. Do you have any ideas where to look?
Well apart from the Sinz cranks that you can have in any length Truvativ is making its entire crank range this year with the option of compact crank (110mm BCD) and lengths down to 165 mm.

Regards, Anthony
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Old 12-25-05 | 11:48 PM
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I don't know how many people understand that Dave Moulton is sort of a legend in bicycling. Even though some might consider him a bit weird with the temerity to be able to think for himself.

Dave's formula isn't meant to describe EXACTLY the size bike you need but if you're a newby, buying a bike based on his data will give you a bike close enough to the correct size that you can't go wrong.

His formula gives me a bike size 1 cm larger than I actually ride but his size is probably correct since I leaned in the LeMond era when everyone was riding bikes 2 or 3 cm smaller than they should have been.
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Old 12-26-05 | 06:13 PM
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[QUOTE=Dave Moulton]You could try to find a stem that is shorter and will raise your handlebars, but the real answer would seem to be a larger frame to cut down on the seat to handlebar height difference. I don’t know what is available in a stock frame; I used to build up to 66cm. You could contact Russ Denny who took over my business and ask if he still builds a large stock frame: www.russdennybicycles.com


I have to put in a plug for Russ Denny. I went to his shop on a recommendation of a friend of mine who's a pro and had him build me a frame. It rides like a dream and his cost was extremely reasonable for a custom built frame. The guy is straight forward and amazingly free of BS. He even told me that frame building isn't magic or rocket science. I don't quite believe him about that, but that statement shows his humility. BTW Dave, thanks for giving us the time of day on this site. My brother owns a mint full Campy SR Fuso (he couldn't afford a full custom frame at the time) that I drool over every time I see it.
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