What is the usual lifespan of an off the shelf training bike these days?
I ride 15000-20000km per year so I'm was figuring on about two years before it clapped out.

There are many variables based on the style of riding you do, height and weight, how tough you are on a bike, maintenance regimen etc, but I think it's safe to assume that any decent road bike will last at least the 2 years you are looking for.

55/Rad

I've ridden my Giant CFR 1 carbon bike for the last 5 years. Though i've had to replace various Ultegra components in this time the frame is still going strong, seems totally indestructable. I reckon it'll outlast my new Specialized Allez Comp aluminium bike by quite a few years.

Ah, what you need is the new Giant O.T.S.T.B - it's a new niche bike, especially designed by the engineers at Giant for people just like you. Check it out!

Go on then, hit me with a 4x2: what's O.T.S.T.B

just a guess sherlock, but OTSTB = off the shelf training bike.....see the original post.

Off The Shelf Training Bike - you said it yourself.

55/Rad

How long is a rope?

Pleez Massa, dun beat me no maw.

So I was distracted there for a while. You can't blame me tho, I live in a world full of stupid acronyms. After a while they all look the same

Well, lifespan should be measured in miles and not years. Obviously, a bike that is hanging up in the garage can stay in near mint condition for quite a long time compared to a bike that is getting ridden about 10,000 miles per year.

The following is about road bikes. This assumes are relatively decent quality bike (105 components or better). That being said, different parts of the bike wear out faster then others. Wear parts like tires, chains, cassettes and brake shoes need routine replacement. Other parts wear out but it takes a fair bit of mileage before they start going usually 20,000+ miles for things like deraillers, shifters, handlebars, seats, bottom brackets and so on.

The frame should last a very long time unless you have a severe crash.

Given decent maintenance most road bikes should get 20,000+ miles before things start to go and even then, it is probably economical to replace parts as they wear out rather then buy a new bike.

It is my observation, that very few bikes are retired because they "wore out". Even high mileage cyclists rarely ride a bike long enough to get much over 20,000 miles before they replace it. Generally people get the desire to get the latest and greatest bells and whistles or to get a more high performance bike in the usually mistaken notion that such a bike will make them a significantly faster rider.

A nice post Pat,

and it seems to agree with what I had in mind. Rig is 105. Chain will be replaced every 5000km, cluster 10000km or with chain replacement if required.

From experience from maintaining my old steelo the bottom bracket is the guiding light: if it needs service then retire the bike. You couldn't use this guide in the old days because bottom brackets were high maintenance. Nowadays they need (relatively) little maintenance. Let me know if I'm wrong...

Nice pic Raiyn, but sadly no substance. But I like how you paintshopped out the reflection of the camera

It's 20 til 7am and I haven't been to bed yet cut me a little slack. I saw the (mildly inappropriate) quote and decided to turn it into something funny.

There's no such thing as PC in my world. Every creature is fair game.

I have seen the blackness that is waiting for those who want to take the early exit from the hard game of life. It is my aim to add some colour to the world.

And don't beg for mercy, that's an invitation for absolute and relentless punishment, no exceptions.
Sorry I come from a large family of like minded sadists.

So your request for slack is refused. Please apply more blusher next time.

Hey Munchy, are you still gunna get that Gitane?

If you are heavy, and you hammer the bike, you should still get
at least two years out of it

I think he needs to wait for Alan to weigh in with the quote of the day from the Rivendell site.

You're wrong. Your frame and most parts should last much longer than any part with bearings.

And clean the chain in some solvent every 1500km. Better, keep two chains, one clean and one on the bike, and swap the dirty one for the clean one every month.

You may already know, but correctly adjusting the ball and cone bearings in the hubs can greatly extend their life. Most people just ride them as they come and that is usually too tight, unless you have an exceptional LBS.

Also, get a torque wrench and crank remover when you get the bike, remove the crank and reinstall it to the correct torque settings.

Also readjust the headset so it is not to tight when you get the bike.

If you correctly set the bearings on a bike and keep them correctly adjusted, they will last a long time even with hard use.

Don't count on your LBS to do these things correctly.

You can go to the Park Tool web site and get all the torgue settings and adjustment instructions.

Cheers.

Yup 531, measurements handed to LBS guy except for saddle-to-headstock drop which I'll have to work out over the next week or so. He was ultra sick on Thursday night so I ran away as fast as I could before contracting the plague. I had taken my nicks and shoes ready for a good fitting session but I was not prepared to stay and work with Death's younger brother.

On the weight side I've dropped from 100 to 83kg with another 13 kg to go over the next four months. I reckon I'm right on the limit for the bike at 83kg. Still tossing up whether to replace stock spokes with some nice heavy swiss. Guess I'll wait and see (current 36s ambrosio's have never needed truing in 20000+km whooop!).

Anyy werd from the sac on his epic journey to Woy Woy?

>> You're wrong. Your frame and most parts should last much longer than any part with bearings.

Yes, I probably am wrong. But that's why I posted in the first place. I need to know what to look for, and I thank you from the bottom of my heart for the tech tips and web pointers. LBS is good and fair on the sales side, but I'm not so sure on the setup/repair side. Standard stuff he's prob AOK at. Supreme stuff prob not.

>> Also readjust the headset so it is not to tight when you get the bike.

Apologies, but what do you mean (I still live in the world of the gooseneck). Do you mean the handlebars ability to freely swivel L/R?

Ah, "gooseneck" -- don't hear that word anymore. One of my non-cycling mates calls them "goosebenders".

Yeah, the head-set -- it's probably more accurate to say: "the fork's ability to swivel."
If the head-set is too loose, you'll get that shuddering when braking. It takes a bit of practise to get
the head-set adjustment right, especially if you have little experience with the new "a-head" setups.

My old steelo is 22 this year and has done 80000+ miles in training, racing, commuting, sitting in the garage , etc. It is so full of fatigue that I'm waiting in nervous anticipation for the gooseneck to snap or a braize to fail. I've already snapped the crank axle (OUCH!) and had to replace many mech parts just to keep it going.

It is my belief that every frame will inherit some 'sag' or 'floppiness' over a reasonably short period of time, and it won't be detectable because you adjust to the feel as it slops out. I need to know whether that is true with modern bike technology (frame + groupset). That was the main thrust of my original post.

I don't believe that steel frames go "soft" -- I think it's a bit of a myth -- but wheels definitely go squishy.
Checked your spoke tension lately? Got the shock of me life when I checked mine.

I have 36 spokes of heaviest guage swiss on each wheel. No flex. Trued rear wheel once only EVER.

I can put my foot on the bottom brack and move the frame at least 1" with little effort. I can also swivel the handlebars (ie. gooseneck play) 2" WITHOUT HOLDING THE FRONT WHEEL BETWEEN MY KNEES!!!!

Fatigue exists. It develops over time regardless of technology. Welcome to entropy.