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Switching to compact soon.

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Switching to compact soon.

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Old 04-18-11 | 10:18 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by s4one
Even with a 36T I prob will not even be able to use it on flat roads right?
How windy does it get where you are?
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Old 04-18-11 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FlashUNC
Its more convenient in a lot of ways, because I found after switching to a compact I would stick in the big ring for rollers, rather than jumping down to the 39, and I find I tend to stay in the big ring longer.

Other thing to watch out for after the switch is down shifting the front -- if the FD isn't properly adjusted -- can lead to you dropping the chain pretty easily. Don't ask how I've learned that....

As others have mentioned, the compact ideally keeps you on the bike longer, rather than walking up an incline, which will help out your fitness in the long haul. Besides, if you're not racing, what's the point of getting to the top first?
Agree with all this. After switching to a compact, I found myself using the 50 a lot more than when I started off with my odd 105 50/39/30 triple.

Re- chain drop - I did this once early on; just avoid shifting down to the 34 when you've gone all the way to the big cogs on your cassette, shift earlier in the cassette. I've never dropped the chain since I worked that out.

Finally, the last comment - there are quite a few racers who run compact cranks round here. Trust me, once you're actually in a race, no one is counting the teeth on anyone's chain rings.
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Old 04-20-11 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics
Gearing is to me is a personal preference depending on ones fitness and rides I run a compact and works for me good for everything from the 22% grades to 50 mph downhill running 34-50 w/11-28 don't really need any thing else for rides we do.
Running downhill with your gearing at 50 mph implies your cadence will be in the 140 range. Not really feasible for most riders for any significant period of time.
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Old 04-20-11 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by calves2997
Running downhill with your gearing at 50 mph implies your cadence will be in the 140 range. Not really feasible for most riders for any significant period of time.
Completely reasonable. Before the grade is that steep you can't add enough power from pedaling to overcome the drag increase that goes with it instead of using a good tuck.
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Old 04-20-11 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
Completely reasonable. Before the grade is that steep you can't add enough power from pedaling to overcome the drag increase that goes with it instead of using a good tuck.
Well the hills I get up to 50-51 with a compact are somewhat steep in areas coasting only will get me to about 45-48 in the steep part I tuck as well as I can pedal as fast as I can and it is up to the 140 range and I can get to 50 its a short burst of pedaling for 50 yards that will bet me those extra mph.
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