Which first, carbon frame, or carbon wheels?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 56
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Bikes: Trek 1.2
Which first, carbon frame, or carbon wheels?
I have the itch to upgrade something soon, and I want to make it worth my while.
I am thinking of upgrading either my frame, or my wheels to something better. Currently I have a somewhat stock Trek 1.2 with some minor upgrades, but I want to make it more speedy if possible and I am guessing wheels will do the trick for me. However for the same cost of me selling it picking up a new bike I can get a SuperSix 10-5 but I won't get the whoosh.
These are the wheels I want to pick up:
https://www.williamscycling.com/sys58_clincher.html
What do you guys think?
I am thinking of upgrading either my frame, or my wheels to something better. Currently I have a somewhat stock Trek 1.2 with some minor upgrades, but I want to make it more speedy if possible and I am guessing wheels will do the trick for me. However for the same cost of me selling it picking up a new bike I can get a SuperSix 10-5 but I won't get the whoosh.
These are the wheels I want to pick up:
https://www.williamscycling.com/sys58_clincher.html
What do you guys think?
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 444
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From: Yorktown, VA
Bikes: IRO SS / Trek 2.1 / Trek 5.1
Do you want to be more aero, or weigh less? Your 1.2 is a nice road bike, but unless you're ready to upgrade to a whole new (and much lighter) component group like SRAM Rival you're still gonna' be on the heavy side, even if you are more aero with the Williams wheels (which I like, BTW). If you aren't racing a lot and mostly doing fast group rides, the wheel upgrade makes a lot of sense. If you are going to get in to racing, you're gonna' want to be lighter and more aero.
#4
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 56
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Bikes: Trek 1.2
Do you want to be more aero, or weigh less? Your 1.2 is a nice road bike, but unless you're ready to upgrade to a whole new (and much lighter) component group like SRAM Rival you're still gonna' be on the heavy side, even if you are more aero with the Williams wheels (which I like, BTW). If you aren't racing a lot and mostly doing fast group rides, the wheel upgrade makes a lot of sense. If you are going to get in to racing, you're gonna' want to be lighter and more aero.
#6
I have a 1.2. I too got the itch to upgrade. I toyed with the idea of upgrading to 105's, wheels, etc.
In the end I realized that any money I spent upgrading the 1.2 would be better spent on buying a whole new bike.
At 21lbs there just simply isn't much room for weight savings without spending a LOT of money.
Got the Giant TCR Composite and couldn't be happier. I've since put Williams 38s on it and it's right at 18lbs.
The 1.2 is permanently attached to my Trainer now (unless the wife's bike is on it). There is nothing at all wrong with the 1.2, just not worth throwing much money at IMO.
In the end I realized that any money I spent upgrading the 1.2 would be better spent on buying a whole new bike.
At 21lbs there just simply isn't much room for weight savings without spending a LOT of money.
Got the Giant TCR Composite and couldn't be happier. I've since put Williams 38s on it and it's right at 18lbs.
The 1.2 is permanently attached to my Trainer now (unless the wife's bike is on it). There is nothing at all wrong with the 1.2, just not worth throwing much money at IMO.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 131
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From: Paoli, PA
Bikes: 2013 Cervelo R3; 2011 Pinarello FP2; 2010 Trek 1.2
I'd go with new frame/bike if I were you. I was in a similar situation last year. I had a 1.2, which served me well, but the cost to upgrade various parts, especially to a lighter drivetrain vs. new ride was just not worth it. Plus I really got bitten by the carbon bug.
#16
I like beans
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 1
From: Meffa, MA
Bikes: Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
This is meant to be tongue-in-cheek so as not to offend the OP because the 1.2's a fine ride, but this thread reminds me of this pic:
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 703
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From: Vienna, VA
Bikes: 2010 Fuji Roubaix 2.0. 2006 Iron Horse Azure Expert
get a new bike and keep the 1.2 as a back up bike, rain bike, or on a trainer if you have one.
I was in your situation before where i wanted to upgrade my Fuji Roubaix. Then I realized it would cost me a lot of money with upgrades in wheels, components, etc. that it would make more sense to just put it all towards a whole new bike.
I was in your situation before where i wanted to upgrade my Fuji Roubaix. Then I realized it would cost me a lot of money with upgrades in wheels, components, etc. that it would make more sense to just put it all towards a whole new bike.
#18
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,274
Likes: 11,795
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
I mis-read the posting and thought it was a historical question.
Carbon frames came out in the 1970's (Exxon Graftek), became viable in the 1980's (Look Screw/glue) and became "standard" in the 1990's.
Carbon rims did not even come out until the 1990's I believe.
Anyway, back on topic I agree best to get good wheels for current bike, and then when you get a new bike you can transfer the wheels as OEM wheels are often a weak link.
That, and ride more.
Carbon frames came out in the 1970's (Exxon Graftek), became viable in the 1980's (Look Screw/glue) and became "standard" in the 1990's.
Carbon rims did not even come out until the 1990's I believe.
Anyway, back on topic I agree best to get good wheels for current bike, and then when you get a new bike you can transfer the wheels as OEM wheels are often a weak link.
That, and ride more.
#19
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Bikes: Trek 1.2
I mis-read the posting and thought it was a historical question.
Carbon frames came out in the 1970's (Exxon Graftek), became viable in the 1980's (Look Screw/glue) and became "standard" in the 1990's.
Carbon rims did not even come out until the 1990's I believe.
Anyway, back on topic I agree best to get good wheels for current bike, and then when you get a new bike you can transfer the wheels as OEM wheels are often a weak link.
That, and ride more.
Carbon frames came out in the 1970's (Exxon Graftek), became viable in the 1980's (Look Screw/glue) and became "standard" in the 1990's.
Carbon rims did not even come out until the 1990's I believe.
Anyway, back on topic I agree best to get good wheels for current bike, and then when you get a new bike you can transfer the wheels as OEM wheels are often a weak link.
That, and ride more.
Now I just need to know if I got Williams or November, didn't hear about the Novembers until today but I read they are the same rim just a different name on the wheel.
#20
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,274
Likes: 11,795
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
I think I am going to go this route, it makes more sense to get wheels first and then upgrade the bike after in my opinion. I want to build a bike from scratch, so I will be doing it over the winter and if I get the wheels now I can use them in the meantime while I save up some more money for bike parts. I appreciate the input from everyone though.
Now I just need to know if I got Williams or November, didn't hear about the Novembers until today but I read they are the same rim just a different name on the wheel.
Now I just need to know if I got Williams or November, didn't hear about the Novembers until today but I read they are the same rim just a different name on the wheel.
If you go for the deep section 58's I hope you either don't have crosswinds or weigh a lot!
I only weigh 145 and sometimes ride in crosswinds so that's why I chose a shallower section wheel.
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 56
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Bikes: Trek 1.2
I have the williams 38 Carbon wheels and love them. I have also heard good things about November so I suspect you would do well with either.
If you go for the deep section 58's I hope you either don't have crosswinds or weigh a lot!
I only weigh 145 and sometimes ride in crosswinds so that's why I chose a shallower section wheel.
If you go for the deep section 58's I hope you either don't have crosswinds or weigh a lot!
I only weigh 145 and sometimes ride in crosswinds so that's why I chose a shallower section wheel.






