When considering a used bike I have a few questions I'm hoping someone can provide direction with. Looking for a road bike for fast paced distance riding both on roads & paved trails. My price range is about 300-800 depending on the bike obviously. I understand all these questions depend on many factors but just general information and guesstimates will help a lot, please.

1.) How old should I get and where should I draw the limit in terms of age. I've been told new Sora/Tiagra parts aren't the best but I can't imagine a 6 year old Ultegra would be better than a new Sora.

2.) While prices vary based on a lot of factors can someone please give me general costs of things to look for on used bikes, otherwise I don't have much of a choice of either just paying whatever or posting here and asking for more help every time I see one that might fit. Maybe find the MSRP on bikepedia and pay a % of that as a rule based on the year. Any way of determining a good price will help.

If you could give me examples of bikes with prices so I could compare them to what I find that would also help a lot.

Thank you in advance with more thank you's to come based on usefulness of information and help provided.

Dont get used! especially used carbon! search for waterrockets "considering buying a used trek" thread. buying used means you have 0 warranty. even if its a glaring problem thats obviously a quality control issue. No OEMs are going to warranty ANYTHING! just want you to be clear on that. you will be on your own. Have i hammered that one across yet? oh, just so you know, they WONT!!!! help you if your bike breaks and it's their fault. got it? good!

Buying a new bike, you have an insurance policy, and typically the lbs will be more helpful, and not nickel and dime you for that quick wheel true, or simple adjustment. plus, i bought a brand new road bike for $200 cheaper than your high end budget, and while it mainly has sora components, its not too bad. right now i need the break in tune up, and the only problem i'm having is slow shifts from cable length(derailers scare me still, i wont adjust them myself yet), and it seems to occasionally drop the chain when i back pedal to get my foot in(only happened 2x in a month tho). I really suggest new, with how good the components are, even the stuff most people scoff at here, really arent bad. theyre just not the epitome of perfection. Also, buying new, you have the size you need, the bike you really want, and my lbs fitted my bike to me(not sure if all do).

I cant really help with detecting if "x" component needs replaced or not, so ill leave that to the guys who have biked farther than ive driven in my life.

I know i didnt really answer what you asked, but it seems to be something that slips peoples minds. hope it helps

Alright, I'll take that under advisement but considering everyone shouts at me not to by something new for under 800 - 1000 and tell me to buy a brand name used bike not really sure what to do.

I'd still like to know about guidelines for buying used just in case I do end up going that way.

Buying used means no warranty, but it also means you will pay much less than when they were new. Bikes seem to suffer a great amount of deprecation the first couple of years. On a used carbon bike, it is a lot more risky because of the no warranty. My first two bikes were used, so it is not as big a deal as some might think. If in doubt have an LBS inspect any possible bike you will purchase.

As for actual guidelines are not sure what's out there.

I think you're right about there being too many variables. First of all, do you have an idea of what size bike you need? You can drop 10k on a bike, but you're not going to ride it very much if you're not comfortable on it.

My suggestion is to visit a couple of lbs's and test ride bikes in different sizes and components. I say that because for 800, you should be in the market for their entry level bikes or maybe a holdover form 2010. You never know what you'll find. You'll also get a feel for their shop in case you need repairs or maintenance in the future even if you don't buy from them.

After you feel how much smoother 105 or ultegra shifts when compared to sora for instance, then you'll have to decide whether you'd rather have older higher end components or newer lower end components. Either way, it won't make you go any faster.IMO, a well maintained older higher end component is just as good a buy as a brand new lower end component, but that's a matter of personal preference.

In red.

He doesn't like LBS's...they try to sell him stuff...

I know of a few shops that specialize in used/refurbed bikes. If you keep a look out you can buy a lot more bike used than you can new and cheep. I gave a friend of mine the same advice and he found a bike that would have sold new for over $2000, he got it for $500. The wheel set on it was worth $500! The bike had almost no miles on it either. There are deals to be found. You may check around and find a shop that deals in used bikes as well.

DC I've decided I don't like you but that's probably just another flaw in my logic train. Yes I do think a $150 dollar bike that lasts me a year+ and doesn't have any major issues that make in unable to be ridden is a good deal for a commute bike.

If quality is quality forever your telling me it will NEVER EVER break? I will always be hesitant buying something 5-10 years old and the fact that you don't even consider my side and just dismiss it shows me you aren't being honest and considering all the facts.

Warranty-wise unless it's a 5year or lifetime warranty it's useless anyways, most warranties cover 1 year. It's there to make people feel secure and buy it when in fact things rarely break during their warranty period.

Maybe you're fine being a jerk to your LBS but I for one will not go into a bike shop and say "Hey guys I have no intention of purchasing anything from you but I do want to take all your bikes for a 2 mile test ride so I can get an idea of what I would like to purchase much cheaper from someone else probably used because the 40% markup on these things just to keep you in business is ridiculous when I can fit and tune it myself and the warranty is useless." But I'm not okay with that, I'm not rude like that, that costs your LBS money.

Original questions still stand though, any idea of what constitutes a good deal helps.

Original questions still stand though, any idea of what constitutes a good deal helps.

Bike <50% of intital cost if <5years old, much lower if older and or obviously ridden hard and abused.
Learn to spot where frames made out of different materials tend to fail and look for signs like cracks, bulges, and deep dings. Knowing what size frame you ride and how to fit the bike yourself, or a friend that does is nessary. It's not a deal if the bike won't fit you. If you are able to wrench your own bike it helps make a deal easier to find. I would have NO problem paying $1000 for a bike that sold for $2500 just a few years ago, especially if it wasn't raced every weekend.

a good deal is only what you think it is... if you find a $500 used bike (and that's a good price point for used bikes, lots of nice ones in that range) and you like it and you feel like you got a good deal, and you enjoy riding it... guess what?? you got a good deal... a "deal" is relative to your own parameters and the market in which you live...

generally speaking, in your budget range tiagra is common and 105 components are not rare... you definitely do not want something built prior to 2000 (my opinion), avoid carbon, and look for nice clean AL bikes... good chance you'll have to look at a few, you HAVE to be prepared to walk away if you don't think you can get it at the price you are willing to pay... don't lowball on CL responses before you see the bike, that is an instant turn off to the seller...

fwiw some LBS's now are making a good biz out of the used market, taking trades, and etc... there may not be a warranty, but I'd be willing to bet they have at least gone thru the bike and given it a basic tune up... they are worth checking out if they deal that way...

in the budget you are looking at, trek and giant both have excellent offerings on the used market that will serve you well for a long time... consider some used cannondale and specialized stuff as well...

That club is long and freakin' distinguished my friend!



I didn't say it would never ever break...is there something in your brain that causes you to always polarize to extremes? If you can't look at something that's 5-10 years old and determine if it's been abused or not, that's your problem. Take along someone who can. And if you still think brand spanking new, right outta' the shiny box, Sora is still better than well maintained 6 year old Ultegra, then that's a case of you not being honest and considering all the facts.



I agree with you on this, but I didn't bring up any warranty stuff...that was another guy you've decided you don't like. Let's keep things straight here.



Couple points of order here Mr. Chairman.

1) If you walk into your LBS and say those things, you need a helmet on your cranium for more than cycling.

2) Not sure where your math is coming from that tells you a test ride cost the LBS money...need more data on that one.

3) If you can fit and tune a bike yourself, you should certainly have enough experience to not be asking questions on the BF...just sayin'

Duces!

Basically, what makes a bike good, is one that fits, and one that makes you want to ride it.

DC, like him or not, is actually giving you sound advice. One of the things that makes Ultegra, and even more so, DA so much more expensive is it's reliability, durability and longevity. I think even older Ultegra is still much better than sora or lower. I will say that Tiagra is not too bad. I have it on my bike, and it performs well (just needs adjusting a little more frequently than higher ends - but when tuned performs flawlessly - however, if I was looking at a good used bike I would 105 or Ultegra or higher.

But honestly, after reading this thread and others - it seems you already have all of the answers - so why bother asking others for advice if you want to argue with all of it.

Thank you uciflylow and thank you bonz those posts both help me.

Curious, It's not the first time I've heard to avoid used carbon, what's the reasoning behind this?

Carbon was not built to last like other materials. If it was not cared for properly, it my be cracked or weak - and it is useless. Most people that look into buying a full carbon bike, like buying new, so they know exactly how it has been cared for. Not saying you will always get burned buying used carbon - just something to keep in mind.

avoiding carbon on the used market is not an absolute... but sage advice as you may not be able to determine thru routine inspection if there is damage to the integrity of the frame... I would say it is more of a guideline for ebay where you often cannot inspect prior to taking possession... you just have to be exceptionally careful when buying used carbon... some guys will go as far as saying NEVER and other will say only if I can get a structural analysis done via MRI/xray/etc...

DC it costs them money because you're using the bike, just that much faster it will need a tune up or that much more time it was ridden that they will need to knock the price down eventually, test rides add up.

Just because I'm okay with a wrench doesn't mean I know everything there is a reason it's called a 'monkey wrench' HAHAHAHA (I laugh at my own jokes because no one likes me.)

And I argue with most advice because most of the time they are just saying to go to my LBS and if I wanted to do that I would be talking to them instead of posting here. I get a wider variety of opinions here.

Interesting, thanks for letting me know.

Do any of you understand materials at all? Carbon fiber isn't built to last? Was that a serious post?

But then again, stupidity is to be expected in the 41.

I'm leery of that comment as well, AL will fatigue, and some say, has a finite life that is shorter than well designed carbon...

Carbon fiber has no fatigue life. If used properly, it will last forever.

Stress is very important relative to its weave. For example, a lot of carbon bikes won't take horizontal stress as well as vertical stress.

Read: https://www.firehole.com/documents/mc...posites_WP.pdf

*Sigh*...Dude, I work part time at the LBS that sponsors my race team. We beg people to take test rides. I keep my SS in the back of the shop so I can go with them in case they have any questions while riding. You can believe whatever you want to, but your LBS WANTS you to test ride the bikes...it's how they sell them. Even if you don't buy one you might tell one of your friends about the really cool Madone you test rode. The wonders of marketing are lost on the heathen...

If you test ride lots of different bikes you get to understand what is important to you and what you are maybe less sensitive to. It helps narrow the field. Then you can evaluate used bikes and put them in context. You may alos fall in love with a bike and decide to buy it. or not.

I'll take the older Ultegra every time. Back when it was new, it was near the top of its line. The Sora has never been anything but decent. People haven't evolved in six years from troglodytes happy with any stone implement they could find, to discriminating cyclists who need shifting perfection. Basically, the ergonomics are very different, and Sora is more cumbersome to use, especially from the drops.

I remeber seeing that doc, didn't have time to read the whole thing last time I saw it and kind forgot about it... carbon is certainly a fascinating material... a lot of folks remember some of the really early carbon bikes, like the first trek Y frames... a neighbor of mine in college had one, he wrecked it on campus (center of the frame land on a brick retaining wall) and the frame shattered like a light bulb, figuratively speaking... i'm sure many heard the horror stories of early carbon... and I'm sure many have seen the busted carbon website... there is a lot of disinformation out there about carbon, for sure