Dont watch this video (wheel noise)
09-15-11, 02:02 PM
#26
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Suggest you also check your bottom bracket and cranks/chainrings to make sure they are properly torqued.
The sound seemed to be more in sync with position of your cranks than rear wheel rotation.
The sound seemed to be more in sync with position of your cranks than rear wheel rotation.
09-15-11, 02:08 PM
#27
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hmm, +1 on the "run w/ brakes open" check. It sure sounds spoke related to me but hard to tell sometimes. Next for me would be to remove the wheel and do a spoke by spoke plucking to gauge the homogeneity of each. Not super scientific mind you but a simple pluck, feel, and listen will give you a pretty quick heads up if one or more of the spokes is dramatically different (BTW do this with a roll of electrical tape to mark spokes for an easy "return visit").
Some other things...
Can you replicate the sound with the bike on a work stand while spinning/pedaling? Or does it JUST do this while riding with full weight on the bike?
You don't by any chance have another wheel do you? It'd be helpful to pop another on and ride to see if you can replicate the sound (ie elimination)....
Is there any play in the BB? With the bike in a stand do you get any movement or noise w/ significant pressure rocking the cranks?
Lastly, kind of a seemingly silly question (so don't take offense) but does the wheel spin true all around while installed and in a stand?
Some other things...
Can you replicate the sound with the bike on a work stand while spinning/pedaling? Or does it JUST do this while riding with full weight on the bike?
You don't by any chance have another wheel do you? It'd be helpful to pop another on and ride to see if you can replicate the sound (ie elimination)....
Is there any play in the BB? With the bike in a stand do you get any movement or noise w/ significant pressure rocking the cranks?
Lastly, kind of a seemingly silly question (so don't take offense) but does the wheel spin true all around while installed and in a stand?
09-15-11, 02:15 PM
#28
Descends like a rock
Thread Starter
hmm, +1 on the "run w/ brakes open" check. It sure sounds spoke related to me but hard to tell sometimes. Next for me would be to remove the wheel and do a spoke by spoke plucking to gauge the homogeneity of each. Not super scientific mind you but a simple pluck, feel, and listen will give you a pretty quick heads up if one or more of the spokes is dramatically different (BTW do this with a roll of electrical tape to mark spokes for an easy "return visit").
Some other things...
Can you replicate the sound with the bike on a work stand while spinning/pedaling? Or does it JUST do this while riding with full weight on the bike?
You don't by any chance have another wheel do you? It'd be helpful to pop another on and ride to see if you can replicate the sound (ie elimination)....
Is there any play in the BB? With the bike in a stand do you get any movement or noise w/ significant pressure rocking the cranks?
Lastly, kind of a seemingly silly question (so don't take offense) but does the wheel spin true all around while installed and in a stand?
Some other things...
Can you replicate the sound with the bike on a work stand while spinning/pedaling? Or does it JUST do this while riding with full weight on the bike?
You don't by any chance have another wheel do you? It'd be helpful to pop another on and ride to see if you can replicate the sound (ie elimination)....
Is there any play in the BB? With the bike in a stand do you get any movement or noise w/ significant pressure rocking the cranks?
Lastly, kind of a seemingly silly question (so don't take offense) but does the wheel spin true all around while installed and in a stand?
BB seems really tight, but I will be replacing it soon anyway.
The wheel is true and spins straight. I may try a wheel off my wife's bike though - I hadnt thought of that. That would tell me for sure if its pedals/BB or wheel.
09-15-11, 02:59 PM
#29
Senior Member
OK...I'll play. When you're climbing...are you sitting or standing?
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2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
09-15-11, 03:08 PM
#30
Descends like a rock
Thread Starter
09-15-11, 04:11 PM
#31
don't try this at home.
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I have not been able to reproduce it on a stand - its only when I'm on the bike supplying power.
BB seems really tight, but I will be replacing it soon anyway.
The wheel is true and spins straight. I may try a wheel off my wife's bike though - I hadnt thought of that. That would tell me for sure if its pedals/BB or wheel.
BB seems really tight, but I will be replacing it soon anyway.
The wheel is true and spins straight. I may try a wheel off my wife's bike though - I hadnt thought of that. That would tell me for sure if its pedals/BB or wheel.
09-15-11, 05:42 PM
#32
Senior Member
My money's on low spoke tension. Sounds like you may have one or two spokes that have detensioned and are moving around a lot more than they should.
09-15-11, 08:54 PM
#35
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thanks for the feedback! Several new things to check. I have new pedals ordered and on the way as well as a new bottom bracket bearing cups. I bought the pedals severely used (and very cheap) and have been hearing clicking from them despite oiling. I figured I would go ahead and replace the bearings too while I doing junk. I don't think this particular noise is coming from the pedals, I hear when they click and pop and this is definitely coming from a different place.
Tunnelrat, you may be onto something, I have thought before that the sound is similar to the sound of the cassette freewheeling the way it resonates. If I remember right, this started some time after I replaced the cassette a while back. It could be that its not tightened on properly.
The wheels are fairly new (less than a year old) velocity road hubs and velocity rims with DT Swiss double butted stainless spokes. (I think I got all that right)
Tunnelrat, you may be onto something, I have thought before that the sound is similar to the sound of the cassette freewheeling the way it resonates. If I remember right, this started some time after I replaced the cassette a while back. It could be that its not tightened on properly.
The wheels are fairly new (less than a year old) velocity road hubs and velocity rims with DT Swiss double butted stainless spokes. (I think I got all that right)
1st: With the cassette sitting on the freehub body (before installing the lockring), the smallest cog should be engaging the splines. This ensures that it's on far enough.
2nd: If when tightening the lockring, you feel increasingly strong "indexes" as the lockring tightens. This ensures that the cassette is secured properly. If you don't feel the indexes,
you need to add as spacer to the spline before sliding the cassette on. That added space will cause the lockring to tighten against the cassette, NOT the freehub body.
-Jeremy
09-16-11, 10:16 AM
#37
Descends like a rock
Thread Starter
If it did happen shortly after replacing the cassette, did you check to see if you need the 1mm spacer? It's easy to know if you need one because the lockring will become tight "SMOOTHLY." If this happens, it means that your lockring is tightening down on the freehub body, NOT the cassette, which is bad. You'll know that your cassette is properly installed if TWO conditions are met.
1st: With the cassette sitting on the freehub body (before installing the lockring), the smallest cog should be engaging the splines. This ensures that it's on far enough.
2nd: If when tightening the lockring, you feel increasingly strong "indexes" as the lockring tightens. This ensures that the cassette is secured properly. If you don't feel the indexes,
you need to add as spacer to the spline before sliding the cassette on. That added space will cause the lockring to tighten against the cassette, NOT the freehub body.
-Jeremy
1st: With the cassette sitting on the freehub body (before installing the lockring), the smallest cog should be engaging the splines. This ensures that it's on far enough.
2nd: If when tightening the lockring, you feel increasingly strong "indexes" as the lockring tightens. This ensures that the cassette is secured properly. If you don't feel the indexes,
you need to add as spacer to the spline before sliding the cassette on. That added space will cause the lockring to tighten against the cassette, NOT the freehub body.
-Jeremy
It is definitely something in the wheel somewhere. I swapped wheels with my wife's crosscheck and now her bike squeaks and mine doesn't. I wonder if she'll notice
I think I'll just take it into the shop that built it and have them check it over. I've put probably 5000mi or so on it. The only issue I've had with it was my fault when I had the limit screw off and ran the RD into it.
Thanks everyone, I learned some things in here - that makes this thread better than most here in the 41
09-16-11, 10:31 AM
#38
Portland Fred
If you're lacking the spacer and the cassette isn't tight enough, that could lead to noise issues. Your cassette should be pretty tight -- close to 30 foot pounds. A few pounds less is no problem, but it should take a bit of force to tighten and loosen it.
09-16-11, 01:33 PM
#39
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It is definitely something in the wheel somewhere. I swapped wheels with my wife's crosscheck and now her bike squeaks and mine doesn't. I wonder if she'll notice
I think I'll just take it into the shop that built it and have them check it over. I've put probably 5000mi or so on it. The only issue I've had with it was my fault when I had the limit screw off and ran the RD into it.
Thanks everyone, I learned some things in here - that makes this thread better than most here in the 41
I think I'll just take it into the shop that built it and have them check it over. I've put probably 5000mi or so on it. The only issue I've had with it was my fault when I had the limit screw off and ran the RD into it.
Thanks everyone, I learned some things in here - that makes this thread better than most here in the 41
If your are at an impasse and are not confident checking the tension/cassette/hub etc then yeah, checking with the builder/LBS definitely makes sense. They may have an easy answer we are missing.
Good luck!
09-17-11, 10:41 AM
#40
Descends like a rock
Thread Starter
Yeah, its at the bike shop now. They built the wheels and do good work. Their wheels come with a guarantee that if you break a spoke or the wheel needs truing (under normal use, they didnt cover my misadjusted RD mishap obviously), they will do it for free.
09-17-11, 04:54 PM
#41
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nice, good to hear. Hey, when/if you do find out what it was please post the answer. Always fun for the curious minds who play along at BF...
09-17-11, 08:40 PM
#42
Descends like a rock
Thread Starter
Got the wheel back with spokes re-tensioned and its quiet again 
Now, to get my new pedals and and fix that popping and clicking in the pedal and I can finally ride in peace and quiet again.
Now, to get my new pedals and and fix that popping and clicking in the pedal and I can finally ride in peace and quiet again.
