My Ride up Passo Gavia (pics) and Extra Carnage...
09-23-11, 07:39 PM
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My Ride up Passo Gavia (pics) and Extra Carnage...
Preface
After going on the A. Hampsten led Cinghiale Cycling Tours trip to the Italian Alps and Dolomites last year, I was left with such a positive impression of Northern Italy, I spent a great deal of time throughout the past few months planning another trip throughout that area, trying to match the level of epicness (sic) as last year; plus, other touristy stuff like Venezia, Firenze, Milano, and Cinque Terre—the tourist stuff was more or less supposed to be retribution and payment to my team car drivers--for being able to enjoy the cycling.
The trip started out great (sarcasm); we were supposed to fly out of JFK on Sun 28 Aug 2011 but that was likely to be canceled due to Hurricane Irene. I quickly re-booked the flights to early Saturday, knowing that my team car drivers would be flying in on Friday night.
However, the following chain of events would be a clear premonition that Mr. Murphy and his stupid law would show up in spades on this adventure.
The re-booked flight was also canceled and Internet Bidding War 2011 started, as everyone stranded by the hurricane frantically wanted/needed to get to where they were going. Normally, I would have reneged on the whole trip but this was too important—I could almost hear the sweet, sweet pave of the Dolomites calling. The airline ticket prices were going up by $100 (per person) every minute! It was madness, not as idiotic as bidding up tulip bulbs or shares of Pets.com but not as stimulating as bidding on something like a third pair of carbon fiber wheels either.
After modifying the original trip schedule, we had a few days to hang around NYC with nice weather considering the hurricane was a bust; however, the day of departure, Tuesday, I was very ill from food poisoning. The plane ride from JFK-Dusseldorf-Milan never seemed to long. After vomiting on the plane, I proceeded to vomit all the way to Como.
There were supposed to be many pictures from the epic rides in Como all the way to Tirano but all I saw for those days were the two bottles of Sprite that I drank and the bottom of the toilet. Just image the best possible roads and some amazing scenery, like this:
But I would not let all this stop me from riding my bike!
Sufferfest, The Hardest Ride In My Life
I had gone over the route from Tirano to Bormio with my Team Car Drivers about 30 times over the past few months. It was programmed into the GPS and backup maps were handed out. This was the only time I would need a team car throughout the trip since it was a fairly long route, over two HC climbs, Mortirolo from Mazzo di Valtellina and also the Gavia from Ponte di Legno, and we would need to check in the car at the hotel in Bormio at the end regardless, so the route--at least, initially--seemed perfect!
Mortirolo:
Gavia:
But that's when the real suffering (aside from not having eaten in the past 3 days) started. At Tornante 8, right after the Pantani monument near Tornante 12 on Passo Mortirolo, I believe the GPS in the car died. Later, it was found to be a fuse problem with something like a coin falling into the 12V to cause it to short.
This was the hardest ride in my life. Riding over Passo Mortirolo was not that bad considering I hadn't eaten solid food in 3 days but here is a map showing bullet points of what did make the ride so hard:
Yes, I was basically left out in the wilderness of the Gavia to ride or die. I basically saw 2 cars the entire time and zero bikers, after I had passed a few on the descent past the Mortirolo.
Here are the only two shots I took while suffering badly up the Gavia, taken with my phone:
Stelvio Day 2011!
After reconciliation with the Team, I was ready for the next day, which would be Stelvio Day 2011, a day where the mountain pass is closed from 8:00AM - 4:00PM to cars and people from the nearby villages come out to root, cheer, and offer tea, pastries, drinks, etc. It's basically a ride that we would have to pay money for in the U.S. but is free to ride, run, roller-ski up in Italy!
Here is me in full poser-mode for the start of the ride from the Bormio side for Stelvio Day 2011:
And here is the profile for Stelvio from Bormio:
In Italy, even kids ride up stuff like this with their parents. It's pretty unreal--here in the U.S., kids ride up stuff like this on their Nintendo DS.
After going on the A. Hampsten led Cinghiale Cycling Tours trip to the Italian Alps and Dolomites last year, I was left with such a positive impression of Northern Italy, I spent a great deal of time throughout the past few months planning another trip throughout that area, trying to match the level of epicness (sic) as last year; plus, other touristy stuff like Venezia, Firenze, Milano, and Cinque Terre—the tourist stuff was more or less supposed to be retribution and payment to my team car drivers--for being able to enjoy the cycling.
The trip started out great (sarcasm); we were supposed to fly out of JFK on Sun 28 Aug 2011 but that was likely to be canceled due to Hurricane Irene. I quickly re-booked the flights to early Saturday, knowing that my team car drivers would be flying in on Friday night.
However, the following chain of events would be a clear premonition that Mr. Murphy and his stupid law would show up in spades on this adventure.
The re-booked flight was also canceled and Internet Bidding War 2011 started, as everyone stranded by the hurricane frantically wanted/needed to get to where they were going. Normally, I would have reneged on the whole trip but this was too important—I could almost hear the sweet, sweet pave of the Dolomites calling. The airline ticket prices were going up by $100 (per person) every minute! It was madness, not as idiotic as bidding up tulip bulbs or shares of Pets.com but not as stimulating as bidding on something like a third pair of carbon fiber wheels either.
After modifying the original trip schedule, we had a few days to hang around NYC with nice weather considering the hurricane was a bust; however, the day of departure, Tuesday, I was very ill from food poisoning. The plane ride from JFK-Dusseldorf-Milan never seemed to long. After vomiting on the plane, I proceeded to vomit all the way to Como.
There were supposed to be many pictures from the epic rides in Como all the way to Tirano but all I saw for those days were the two bottles of Sprite that I drank and the bottom of the toilet. Just image the best possible roads and some amazing scenery, like this:
But I would not let all this stop me from riding my bike!
Sufferfest, The Hardest Ride In My Life
I had gone over the route from Tirano to Bormio with my Team Car Drivers about 30 times over the past few months. It was programmed into the GPS and backup maps were handed out. This was the only time I would need a team car throughout the trip since it was a fairly long route, over two HC climbs, Mortirolo from Mazzo di Valtellina and also the Gavia from Ponte di Legno, and we would need to check in the car at the hotel in Bormio at the end regardless, so the route--at least, initially--seemed perfect!
Mortirolo:
Gavia:
But that's when the real suffering (aside from not having eaten in the past 3 days) started. At Tornante 8, right after the Pantani monument near Tornante 12 on Passo Mortirolo, I believe the GPS in the car died. Later, it was found to be a fuse problem with something like a coin falling into the 12V to cause it to short.
This was the hardest ride in my life. Riding over Passo Mortirolo was not that bad considering I hadn't eaten solid food in 3 days but here is a map showing bullet points of what did make the ride so hard:
Yes, I was basically left out in the wilderness of the Gavia to ride or die. I basically saw 2 cars the entire time and zero bikers, after I had passed a few on the descent past the Mortirolo.
Here are the only two shots I took while suffering badly up the Gavia, taken with my phone:
Stelvio Day 2011!
After reconciliation with the Team, I was ready for the next day, which would be Stelvio Day 2011, a day where the mountain pass is closed from 8:00AM - 4:00PM to cars and people from the nearby villages come out to root, cheer, and offer tea, pastries, drinks, etc. It's basically a ride that we would have to pay money for in the U.S. but is free to ride, run, roller-ski up in Italy!
Here is me in full poser-mode for the start of the ride from the Bormio side for Stelvio Day 2011:
And here is the profile for Stelvio from Bormio:
In Italy, even kids ride up stuff like this with their parents. It's pretty unreal--here in the U.S., kids ride up stuff like this on their Nintendo DS.
Last edited by kimconyc; 09-23-11 at 08:07 PM.
09-23-11, 07:45 PM
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And pictures I took while climbing Stelvio:
One of several rest stops along the way where one could replenish calories with Italian baked goodness and hot tea.
Ants...
Some people choose to roller-ski up Stelvio--crazy!
Proof my bike made it. This bike rocks BTW! If you ever plan on traveling with your bike, give S. Hampsten a call and have him convince you to give him your money; it's well worth it!
Switchback descents!
There's a nice view at the bottom of Via Stelvio.
One of several rest stops along the way where one could replenish calories with Italian baked goodness and hot tea.
Ants...
Some people choose to roller-ski up Stelvio--crazy!
Proof my bike made it. This bike rocks BTW! If you ever plan on traveling with your bike, give S. Hampsten a call and have him convince you to give him your money; it's well worth it!
Switchback descents!
There's a nice view at the bottom of Via Stelvio.
Last edited by kimconyc; 09-23-11 at 07:59 PM.
09-23-11, 07:45 PM
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More to follow...
Last edited by kimconyc; 09-23-11 at 07:59 PM.
09-23-11, 08:17 PM
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grilled cheesus
great pictures. i am totally doing a hampsten trip in 2012. later.
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09-23-11, 08:31 PM
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Zoncolan!!!
If you do not believe in God, you will after climbing Monte Zoncolan:
Yes, it's a short climb and yes, I did make it up without stopping, but this climb is no joke. It makes Passo Mortirolo seem like a climb made for amateur hour.
I fueled up with some pastry goodness from a small town called Forni Avoltri:
But it did not help much in making the climb any easier. It also doesn't help that at each corner, there are posters of legends like Merckx, Hinault, Bugno, Coppi, Pantani, Moser, Gimondi, etc. staring in one's face, almost laughing, belittling one's pathetic power output. "I could do this on a 42-21," I could almost hear Eddy calling out, as I tried to mash up the climb on 34-26.
The descent was pretty hairy as well. I was taking it pretty easy into the corners when a mountain biker (btw, I only saw one other cycling on the way up; nobody wants to attempt this thing, which is in the most remote area possible) zoomed passed me.
I proceeded to follow him until I saw that I didn't really like the lines he was taking. Next thing I know, he overcooks a corner and eats it on a side railing. I stop and ask, "stai bene", "are you ok"? He says, "si, I.......am idiot". We both laugh and are both relieved that he is fine and so is his bike.
At the bottom of the climb, I realize that some of the glue from the tire on my front rim has started to melt! But all is well and I proceeded to claim my reward for being insane enough to tackle this climb:
I had the best meal on the ENTIRE trip in the remote town of Liariis, at Pizzeria Tratoria Allo Zoncolan, run by a sweet old lady and her son. It was lunch time, when many Italians usually close shop, but the lady made an exception for us. No pizza but Spaghetti Bolognese was bountiful!
The lady did not speak any English but I had a nice little dialogue with her and she gave me a bunch of cycling maps and routes for some epic rides. I didn't have enough time to do Monte Crostis but here are some pictures along SP619 in the Friuli and Carnic Alps:
Lago di Sauris
More to follow...
If you do not believe in God, you will after climbing Monte Zoncolan:
Yes, it's a short climb and yes, I did make it up without stopping, but this climb is no joke. It makes Passo Mortirolo seem like a climb made for amateur hour.
I fueled up with some pastry goodness from a small town called Forni Avoltri:
But it did not help much in making the climb any easier. It also doesn't help that at each corner, there are posters of legends like Merckx, Hinault, Bugno, Coppi, Pantani, Moser, Gimondi, etc. staring in one's face, almost laughing, belittling one's pathetic power output. "I could do this on a 42-21," I could almost hear Eddy calling out, as I tried to mash up the climb on 34-26.
The descent was pretty hairy as well. I was taking it pretty easy into the corners when a mountain biker (btw, I only saw one other cycling on the way up; nobody wants to attempt this thing, which is in the most remote area possible) zoomed passed me.
I proceeded to follow him until I saw that I didn't really like the lines he was taking. Next thing I know, he overcooks a corner and eats it on a side railing. I stop and ask, "stai bene", "are you ok"? He says, "si, I.......am idiot". We both laugh and are both relieved that he is fine and so is his bike.
At the bottom of the climb, I realize that some of the glue from the tire on my front rim has started to melt! But all is well and I proceeded to claim my reward for being insane enough to tackle this climb:
I had the best meal on the ENTIRE trip in the remote town of Liariis, at Pizzeria Tratoria Allo Zoncolan, run by a sweet old lady and her son. It was lunch time, when many Italians usually close shop, but the lady made an exception for us. No pizza but Spaghetti Bolognese was bountiful!
The lady did not speak any English but I had a nice little dialogue with her and she gave me a bunch of cycling maps and routes for some epic rides. I didn't have enough time to do Monte Crostis but here are some pictures along SP619 in the Friuli and Carnic Alps:
Lago di Sauris
More to follow...
Last edited by kimconyc; 02-12-12 at 09:24 PM.
09-23-11, 08:32 PM
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09-23-11, 08:34 PM
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grilled cheesus
^^^^ yeah, i see he is not going to tackle the Gavia in 2012. i may need to hit you up for some plan it yourself tips once the new year hits. later.
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09-23-11, 08:35 PM
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09-23-11, 08:39 PM
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Here Come the Dolomites
Probably the best pave in the world, meter for meter. I haven't been everywhere in the world but I can't imagine it getting much better than the Dolomites for riding a bike.
Here's some pictures of Cortina d'Ampezzo:
Sunrise.
Sunrise.
More to follow...
Probably the best pave in the world, meter for meter. I haven't been everywhere in the world but I can't imagine it getting much better than the Dolomites for riding a bike.
Here's some pictures of Cortina d'Ampezzo:
Sunrise.
Sunrise.
More to follow...
09-23-11, 08:40 PM
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I plan on making a base camp near the Gavia after or before the trip if I go on the Cinghiale trip next year...we will talk about it later.
09-23-11, 08:45 PM
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Lago di Carezza:
Lago di Fedaia /w Passo Fedaia (a.k.a. the Marmolada--tough climb):
More to follow...
Lago di Fedaia /w Passo Fedaia (a.k.a. the Marmolada--tough climb):
More to follow...
09-23-11, 08:49 PM
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Passo Giau (you can easily reach the base of this climb from Alleghe, the base camp of Cinghiale Cycling Tours 2012 Dolomites, only a few clicks away):
More to follow...
More to follow...
09-23-11, 08:53 PM
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More Passo Giau, which is the highest climb used in the Maratona (would love to participate in the long course in the future):
So basically, Murphy got his ass (can we still say that) kicked. Yes, riding a bike in Italy is arguably better than 9W or the park but riding a bike seems like a good idea in general. That seems to be the takeout from the trip. Also, "to suffer is to learn". I'm still not sure what the lesson is from suffering but I just like that quote; seems to make the hard stuff seem a bit easier and laughable.
The End (of the cycling part of the trip)
Thanks for viewing. Hope you enjoyed!
So basically, Murphy got his ass (can we still say that) kicked. Yes, riding a bike in Italy is arguably better than 9W or the park but riding a bike seems like a good idea in general. That seems to be the takeout from the trip. Also, "to suffer is to learn". I'm still not sure what the lesson is from suffering but I just like that quote; seems to make the hard stuff seem a bit easier and laughable.
The End (of the cycling part of the trip)
Thanks for viewing. Hope you enjoyed!
Last edited by kimconyc; 09-23-11 at 09:14 PM.
09-23-11, 08:57 PM
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Congrats on your great cycling trip! I dream of riding the Dolomiti some day.
09-23-11, 09:08 PM
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I hope you make the trip happen. If you can rough it (like not eat out and not stay in a hotel), you can do a 2 week trip for under $2,000 including airfare. Then, the hard part is making the time and then preparing for the carnage (but also anticipate the open road).
09-23-11, 09:14 PM
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Beautiful! Sounds like an excellent trip, and some fantastic riding. I am super jealous.
Thanks for posting!
Thanks for posting!
09-23-11, 09:15 PM
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Two words: I'm jealous. (okay, one was a contraction, so maybe that's three words) I'll get there someday....someday....
Just an FYI: the scuttlebutt is that at least some if not all titanium Hampsten frames are being made by Kent Eriksen Cycles in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Your frame looks a LOT like the Eriksen frames I've seen. From what I've heard, and according to their website, the Hampsten steel frames are made in-house.
Just an FYI: the scuttlebutt is that at least some if not all titanium Hampsten frames are being made by Kent Eriksen Cycles in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Your frame looks a LOT like the Eriksen frames I've seen. From what I've heard, and according to their website, the Hampsten steel frames are made in-house.
09-23-11, 09:20 PM
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Amazing pics on this trip. Thanks for sharing them. I will need to take a second look at them (and perhaps use them to convince my wife that we need to go) later.
09-23-11, 09:21 PM
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Two words: I'm jealous. (okay, one was a contraction, so maybe that's three words) I'll get there someday....someday....
Just an FYI: At least some Ti Hampsten frames are made by Kent Eriksen Cycles in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. From what I've heard, and according to their website, the Hampsten steel frames are made in-house.
Just an FYI: At least some Ti Hampsten frames are made by Kent Eriksen Cycles in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. From what I've heard, and according to their website, the Hampsten steel frames are made in-house.
They aren't magical bikes and S. Hampsten doesn't try to blow smoke up your rear pipe to convince you otherwise. They are just solid, custom bikes--not the cheapest, not the most expensive, not the lightest, not the heaviest.
I liked that A. Hampsten fitted me, S. Hampsten was a straight shooter, and I could have confidence that this bike would last a very long time and be ridden hard for that time period. I planned on traveling a lot with my bike and I already traveled 3 times in less than the year I've had it so I'm pretty happy it's getting good use. Plus, it rides pretty well around the house as well.
09-23-11, 09:35 PM
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You have about 5 or 6 pics that I want the high res versions, they are absolutely gorgeous. Nice read and sounds like an epic trip you will not soon forget.
09-23-11, 09:47 PM
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Holy crap those are amazing pics of an epic ride in an epic place.
SLR on compact? Those are incredible pics!
I would KILL to have big climbs like that closed to car traffic for a day in the US. What an amazing idea - and clearly tons of folks are taking advantage. Sad to say, but I'd bet you'd have a poor turnout in the us on such a road since it would be 'too hard.'
SLR on compact? Those are incredible pics!
I would KILL to have big climbs like that closed to car traffic for a day in the US. What an amazing idea - and clearly tons of folks are taking advantage. Sad to say, but I'd bet you'd have a poor turnout in the us on such a road since it would be 'too hard.'
09-23-11, 10:18 PM
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Holy crap those are amazing pics of an epic ride in an epic place.
SLR on compact? Those are incredible pics!
I would KILL to have big climbs like that closed to car traffic for a day in the US. What an amazing idea - and clearly tons of folks are taking advantage. Sad to say, but I'd bet you'd have a poor turnout in the us on such a road since it would be 'too hard.'
SLR on compact? Those are incredible pics!
I would KILL to have big climbs like that closed to car traffic for a day in the US. What an amazing idea - and clearly tons of folks are taking advantage. Sad to say, but I'd bet you'd have a poor turnout in the us on such a road since it would be 'too hard.'
All the other shots were taken with a Canon S90 point-and-shoot. It fits into a jersey pocket and has some SLR functionality, which is nice. IMO it's more than one needs for a camera, unless one shoots photos for a living.
Well, time for bed. I have what should be a pretty cool ride tomorrow with a wonderful group of 10-12 year olds