Upgrading brakes, before I get hit by something
#1
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From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, CAAD9, CAD R1000
Upgrading brakes, before I get hit by something
I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes from the crappy stock tektro ones, as it seems like I almost get hit by a car on every ride. On my rides, I descend through a residential neighborhood with pretty steep roads, and I often have trouble completely stopping at stop signs/lights. This coupled with drivers who don't like to wait for cyclists makes for a panicking me.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
#2
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
IDK why.
However, I personally would NOT want to buy "brakes" off of CL...
I would much prefer to go to a LBS for something that important. I mean if anything goes wrong, who do you take it up with...CL, the seller...That could get dicey!
Just call up Mikes Bikes and ask them about the most appropriate brakes for your bike. Then just go pick 'em up!
- Slim
However, I personally would NOT want to buy "brakes" off of CL...
I would much prefer to go to a LBS for something that important. I mean if anything goes wrong, who do you take it up with...CL, the seller...That could get dicey!
Just call up Mikes Bikes and ask them about the most appropriate brakes for your bike. Then just go pick 'em up!
- Slim
#6
#7
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
Although better pads should always be the first equipment upgrade, I agree -- there's no reason to be trying to break speed records and use such heavy late braking in a neighborhood with signed intersections.
OP, quit riding so fast around there. Find another route to ride faster.
OP, quit riding so fast around there. Find another route to ride faster.
#10
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Joined: Oct 2010
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I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes from the crappy stock tektro ones, as it seems like I almost get hit by a car on every ride. On my rides, I descend through a residential neighborhood with pretty steep roads, and I often have trouble completely stopping at stop signs/lights. This coupled with drivers who don't like to wait for cyclists makes for a panicking me.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
I do think though that you're giving your Tektro brakes a bad rap. My road bike is a stock Giant Defy3 with Tektro brakes. The pads that the brakes came with were not great - it wasn't that they didn't stop well, but they wore down extremely rapidly.
For $10, you can swamp out the pads (it's super easy) to something like KoolStop or DuraAce and it'll give all the braking you can get. (The cheap brakes weigh more than the pricey stuff, but grip just as well - it's just a cable that your finger pulls, it's not like the Dura Ace brake generates more force on its own.)
My TT bike is the one I replaced the front brake on to ultegra. I did not replace it because I was upgrading - I only replaced it because I sweat so much on it last year during indoor training (before getting a custom bike thong for TT bikes, as the regular bike thong didn't fully cover the front) that I completely corroded it and it wouldn't even budge.
Of course, if you like new shiny things, a brakeset is not a particularly expensive part of the bike (unlike shifters and cranks) so go for it.
#11
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
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From: Haunchyville
I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes from the crappy stock tektro ones, as it seems like I almost get hit by a car on every ride. On my rides, I descend through a residential neighborhood with pretty steep roads, and I often have trouble completely stopping at stop signs/lights. This coupled with drivers who don't like to wait for cyclists makes for a panicking me.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
I am assuming these brakes and better pads will result in better performance. Are there any specific brakes I should look for? Weight (and to a lesser degree, money) is not a factor.
I found a pair of new 105 brakes -pads included- on CL. How much should I be expecting to pay? asking is $75.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ogden, Utah
Bikes: CAAD 10, Cervelo P2 SL, Focus RG-700, Quintana Roo #101
I bought an essentially new Ultegra 6600 set for 40 dollars off craigslist. The guy had a Mikkelsen and Tarmac SL2 in his garage where he just upgraded to full 6700. I would trust myself over Mikes Bike any day. It's easy enough to know if a brake is going to work or not, just squeeze the darn thing. The problem with the Tektro is that the brake pads suck majorly. I do prefer the modulation of the Ultegra, though, very well built
Last edited by justkeepedaling; 10-02-11 at 11:14 AM.
#13
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From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, CAAD9, CAD R1000
Thanks for the replies.
I was looking on amazon and there are so many koolstop salmon pads - I have no idea which one to get.
I looked at my brakes (Tektro R580) and there isn't a place for the huge bolt thing that comes out of many of the pads in the pictures.
I went to Mikes Bikes a couple of weeks ago for a cable swap and they didn't have any salmon koolstops - or any koolstops for that matter.
I was looking on amazon and there are so many koolstop salmon pads - I have no idea which one to get.
I looked at my brakes (Tektro R580) and there isn't a place for the huge bolt thing that comes out of many of the pads in the pictures.
I went to Mikes Bikes a couple of weeks ago for a cable swap and they didn't have any salmon koolstops - or any koolstops for that matter.
#15
Those are mountain bike pads. You want these https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#dura
But like I said, the 7900 pads are even better: https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1078025_-1___
You should be able to get 7900 pads from any bike store.
Whatever pads you get, make sure the brakes are set up correctly. The pads should contact the rims at about 1/2 the lever travel or a little less. Both pads should hit the rim at the same time. Clamp on the brake and look at how the pads sit on the rim. They should be in the middle of the brake track, and the pad surface should hit the rim squarely, not at an angle.
Last, set the pads up to be toed in just a little. I do that by positioning the pads, then clamping the brake on with a business card under the back edge of the pad. Loosen the fixing bolt, let the pad move, and then tighten the bolt again. If you do it right you should have a very slight toe in.
Where in Palo Alto are you finding steep descents?
But like I said, the 7900 pads are even better: https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1078025_-1___
You should be able to get 7900 pads from any bike store.
Whatever pads you get, make sure the brakes are set up correctly. The pads should contact the rims at about 1/2 the lever travel or a little less. Both pads should hit the rim at the same time. Clamp on the brake and look at how the pads sit on the rim. They should be in the middle of the brake track, and the pad surface should hit the rim squarely, not at an angle.
Last, set the pads up to be toed in just a little. I do that by positioning the pads, then clamping the brake on with a business card under the back edge of the pad. Loosen the fixing bolt, let the pad move, and then tighten the bolt again. If you do it right you should have a very slight toe in.
Where in Palo Alto are you finding steep descents?
#17
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From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, CAAD9, CAD R1000
Thanks.
I'll try the 7900 pads.
I'm in Los Altos Hills - the main one I'm worried about: the road that the Palo Alto Hills Country Club is located (Alexis drive) is pretty steep with a stop sign at the bottom and no stop sign for the cars on Page Mill, which is the intersecting street. If you go deeper in LAH - past 280 there are some steep roads but less traffic.
I'll try the 7900 pads.
I'm in Los Altos Hills - the main one I'm worried about: the road that the Palo Alto Hills Country Club is located (Alexis drive) is pretty steep with a stop sign at the bottom and no stop sign for the cars on Page Mill, which is the intersecting street. If you go deeper in LAH - past 280 there are some steep roads but less traffic.
#18
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
I didn't like the Tektro brakes that came on my Allez either. Even if the calipers worked ok, the barrel adjusters sucked and the pads sucked worse. So I got a set of SRAM Apex brakes. $60 for the pair and they come with Swiss Stop pads. I couldn't be happier.
If your Tektros don't have that little screw that holds the pads in, you're not going to be able to use most replacement pads without buying the shoes as well. Kool Stop has a set that comes with shoes and 2 sets of pads (one black, one mixed).
If your Tektros don't have that little screw that holds the pads in, you're not going to be able to use most replacement pads without buying the shoes as well. Kool Stop has a set that comes with shoes and 2 sets of pads (one black, one mixed).
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#22
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Thanks.
I'll try the 7900 pads.
I'm in Los Altos Hills - the main one I'm worried about: the road that the Palo Alto Hills Country Club is located (Alexis drive) is pretty steep with a stop sign at the bottom and no stop sign for the cars on Page Mill, which is the intersecting street. If you go deeper in LAH - past 280 there are some steep roads but less traffic.
I'll try the 7900 pads.
I'm in Los Altos Hills - the main one I'm worried about: the road that the Palo Alto Hills Country Club is located (Alexis drive) is pretty steep with a stop sign at the bottom and no stop sign for the cars on Page Mill, which is the intersecting street. If you go deeper in LAH - past 280 there are some steep roads but less traffic.
I haven't been up/down Alexis, but I'm positive your Tektro brakes + DA will be more than adequate. If you want some serious brake-testing descents, try the Bohlman/On Orbit descent in Saratoga. A good stretch of 20% and a whole lot of twisty 10-15% to burn off your brake pads. Climbing it is lethal as well.







