So this question has been nagging more forever. On my set of S-works Bars there are little "height" indicators for setting your brifters. Should these be measured to the bottom, top, or clamp of the brifter? I know it doesn't really matter all that much since they are more so that you can set them at the same height on each side but I notice that whenever I set my brifters I like to set them really high on the bar so that I can rotate the bar as far as possible downward.

Am I the only one that does this (Brifters really high)? And are markings normally supposed to be measured to the clamp? (I am just a little wary of setting the clamps too far away from the "Clampable" section and possibly damaging my pretty carbon bars).

Approximately like these. Note the smooth transition from bar to hood.

Any reason to that I shouldn't rotate the bars more and raise the brifters up higher then your example?

Nice.

Yes.

From the Shimano Factory Manual:

Why does the Shimano factory manual use a SRAM brifter for illustrative purposes?

If you're gonna do it "wrong", I think having them mounted too high is better than too low. I can especially see that for someone who seldom rides out of the saddle, as that changes the angle that the arms and wrists maintain to contact the hoods (and the drops for that matter) greatly. Riding out of the saddle is the only time my hands are completely comfortable on hoods which parallel the ground.

I may have grabbed the wrong image from my tech docs folder. Honestly, I didn't even look at it.

The Sram, Shimano and Campagnolo factory manuals all show the same thing (albeit with their own shifters).

None at all. The aim is for you to be comfortable. Micro-adjustments can achieve that.

The Shimano, SRAM and other factory manuals would have you believe you can't do things with their products which many, many cyclist have shown, over time, to be incorrect.

Just a little further on this, perhaps some pertinent questions might be:

What sort of riding do you do (just roads, competitive, long distance)?

How far below your seat are your bars?

How comfortable do you rate your seat at the moment?

Is it well adjusted, or are you compensating with a desire for the higher hood angle because you are falling forward?

Once you answer those questions, the experts might be able to chime in.

Among other things the factory manuals show how the products are designed to be used and how much leeway there is. Using products in ways other than this can be a reason to void any warranty claims.

Does that mean it is possible to use these products in way other than those described in the factory manuals? Absolutely, but in reality, baring poor design or production, most parts work best when used in the way for which they were intended.

If the OP feels that they have to rotate the shifters any amount beyond what is recommended by the manufacturer then there is a bigger problem here, which is fit, and most likely a better solution.

Because you won't be able to shift while in the drops.

honestly, if you can't ride in the drops and hoods comfortably with the bars and levers set to what the factory manual suggests, you might want to raise your bars or bring them in closer.

Surely you are not seriously suggesting that moving a brifter 1/8th of inch above or below the manual recommendation is going to void a warranty on it? Especially when that manual specification cannot possibly take into account the needs and requirements of every user whose hand size might range from tiny to giant.

If you are, then the bicycle manufacturing industry has just taken, in my estimation, another step into ridicule.

I would be very surprised if 1/8" was an issue.

I was making a general statement about some riders I've seen jacking their shifters mightily towards the heavens because of poor bike fit. This can seriously degrade performance and lead to problems like broken shifter paddles or the inner wires in the housing getting pulled into the levers because the user has to exert too much force to actuate shifts.

I've also seen some damage done to drive train parts because of crappy shifting that was a result of poor or improper installation.

This is more of what I was getting at.

Of course there is some wiggle room with all set ups, and there needs to be, because frames, cockpits etc are not standardized and neither are the people using them - but to a point.

I hate the made-up term "brifter." It's sounds ridiculous.

+1000

I refuse to use it.

it's either STI, doubletap or ergo levers.

And that, my friends, is how it's done.

I would agree that in most cases, if you feel the need to change from the standard positioning, the issue is probably your bar height or stem length and not shifter/brake lever position.

I must admit to being a bit anal about shifter position on the bar. Its because I am anal about my fit on the bike in general and to me shifter position is critical to comfort on the bike. OP...there is no rule per se. I always look at how top riders ride and have included their position below. I would say most pros ride with the shifter turned up on the bar and different than factory suggested orientation. This is true of me as well. If the top of the bar is level with the crotch of the hood, it doesn't feel as good and places more pressure on my outboard heel pad and ulnar nerve. So I like the hoods a bit proud of the handlebar to localize more pressure between my thumb and forefinger. Take note there is a major difference how bars are shaped in profile which affects the interface to the hoods. Also there is a pretty good disparity in how pros ride as well...including the bar shape they prefer. The most pronounced old school position is Armstrong's set up...I show an early handlebar when he rode Dura Ace. His later Sram position is more like the others.

The whole discussion about shifter position actually relates to how bikes have morphed in sizing and how shifters used to be positioned more down the front curve of a deeper hooked handlebar. Compact bars have in effect lowered the handlebar position with the shifters being now mounted higher on the bar....for essentially the same net position....tops being perhaps the most changed (lower)...old school deep hooks and shifters are pretty close to modern compact position.