bigfred 

Two weeks into training for my 2012 goal of completing the Lake Taupo Century in under 6 hours and this is how its going:

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Second ride after being taken in to be tensioned and checked. Can't convince the mechanics at the local shops that even and appropriate tensions are more important to clyde wheel longevity than being perfectly true. My backup rear is currently with the third shop that I'm trying. Anybody know of a true wheelsmith in the Auckland area? Otherwise, I'm in the staes in three weeks time and will be picking up a truing stand, tension meter and teaching myself wheel building.

canam73

Skip the stand and use your bike. Unless you are tone deaf, you can even your tension by plucking, too. But if your a clyde and ride a lot then knowing how to keep your wheels in order is probably more than worth having what ever you need to do it.

For what it is worth I do use a truing stand but it is an old fork welded upside down to a flat steel plate. Works great.

bigfred 

Unfortunately, I am tone deaf. But, not because that's what limits my wheel building/truing skills. Reliance on those sort of techniques by some mechanics is what has gotten me into this situation. I used to have a wheel builder, he had been an engineer, as am I. We would true, but more importantly, tension my wheels and then let me know that I might have to live with the 2-3mm of run out that they had. Was never an issue for me. I'ld frequently get a couple years or more from a set of wheels that he had put his hands to and sometimes wear through the side walls without furthe attention. Either that or they would suffer a sudden and catastrophic end as the result of an obvious moment (pot hole, drainage grate, etc.) Now, I've moved to Auckland three years ago and continue to search for a mechanic that can be bothered to listen to me or the history of the wheel before coming out with, "Don't worry, it'll be 'perfectly' true when I'm done with it." So far, the longest I've gotten out of a "perfectly true" wheel is about three months before it absolutely requires further attention. They don't seem to understand that huge tension and perfect true aren't neccessary for wheel strength and durability. If anything, with Open Pros, the tension they're trying to use is taking them to close to potato chipping as they leave the stand. (Sorry, rant over.)

Onto my plan. Spoke was from the right rear of my primary Open Pros. Will replace the 9 drive side spokes and see how that rim does, whilst ordering a replacement for it. If I can find the correct length spokes here. Hopefully, collect the backkup CXP22's from shop three early this week and get back to the training schedule. While in the state next month, pick up a Park TS2 and TM1. I know, I know. They aren't necessary. But, I like objective numbers to work with. It's part of who I am. Will also purchase a set of either 105 or Ultegra 36h hubs and set of Deep V's, which will become my workhorse day to day trainers. Howmany have tried lancing such critters 3X 14ga straight on the drive side and then either 14/15 or 14/16 on the non drive side? My thoughts being that the lighter spokes will be stretched more to achieve the same tension. Hence, better able to handle any rim flex without going slack and having the nipple back off. Which, seems to be my most frequently issue.

znomit

Tristan at wheel works in Welly gets high praise. Just a courier away!
https://wheelworks.co.nz/

bigfred 

Temporary relief. Shop three is open on Sundays and had the correct length in stock. I've replace 2 of the 9 outside drive side spokes and brought the rim to reasonably true. I'll leave the other 7 for once I have a tension meter and stand. At least I managed a ride this afternoon.