The_DK

LBS is pretty far away... so thanks in advance before I bring this back to them.

On the larger front cog, EVERY setting clicks when I pedal. It's coming from the cassette, I think.
On my old bike with grip shifts, I"d just trim it a little and it would be fine. I cant' figure out how to do that on the CAAD 10 5. Every single one is just... noisy.

When the bike coasts - it clicks. Even my trek hybrid doesn't do this - I'm used to hearing this on department store bikes. Is this normal?

Brakes feel pretty weak in comparison to my hybrid. Maybe I'm just not used to them, but it feels like I'm going to bust the 105's levers when I'm in a hurry to stop. Do they need a break in?

The white plastic disc behind the cassette - it's not really connected to everything. Just two of the spokes. It bumps around and wobbles. Can I just cut this thing off?


Thanks in advance.

generalkdi

Yes you can cut it off, it's only purpose is to pretect your chain from going into you wheel's rays. For the click, I can't tell, but you should show it to your LBS. Sorry to hear he is far from your home.

escarpment

Tighten the brakes. Its pretty easy, two ways, Theres a barrel adjustment that will allow you to do a minor adjustment. Or use a allen wrench and loosen the cable then bring the breaks closer together and re tighten the cable.

Dont try to cut off the plastic pie plate, You could bend some spokes, next time you are in the shop have them remove it. you need to take off the cassette to do this.

And as far the clicking its most likely due to the rear derailleur not being properly in tune, understandable I guess if it is brand new and the shop didnt tune it right. But you should not have to pay for this as they seem to be at fault. But if you dont know how to tune a derailleur yourself it is worth the trip to the shop as once is is properly tuned you should be good for several months if not a year+ depending on how you ride.

dstrong 

What model C'dale? All 105?

Click at every setting - May need to adjust the rear derailleur. There's a barrel adjuster on the derailleur itself. Put the chain on the big ring and a middle cog in back. Turn the adjuster three times to the right...see if there's a difference. If not, turn the adjuster three times to the left and then three more times to see if there's a difference.

Click during coasting - This is normal for rear hubs.

Brakes - Many recommend replacing stock pads for KoolStops or similar.

White disc - affectionately referred to as a "dork disc". Yes, you can cut it off as long as you're convinced your rear derailleur is adjusted properly. It's there to prevent a poorly adjusted read derailleur from traveling into the spokes. It can be removed if you know how to remove the cogset but if you don't have the tools, then cutting it off is an alternative.

Go to Park Tool for great info on bike repair.

The_DK

Thanks a bunch guys! And kudos for not blasting me for my questions.

ColinL

Some Shimano hubs, especially their mountain ones, are nearly silent. I am going to guess this is why your hybrid doesn't click when coasting and your road bike does.

The_DK

I'm going to call the LBS before I touch that barrel adjuster. I jsut put the bike on the stand and checked. EVERY gear clicks, big or small cog. Only the big one was loud enough to hear over wind/traffic.

Also the chain rubs at the front chainstay on the three smallest cogs when using the small front cog, and just the first smallest cog when using the large front cog.

generalkdi

This is called crosschaining, you should never use any mix of small-small or large-large.

pgjackson

When you say the LBS is far away, do you mean the shop where you bought the bike or the nearest bike shop? If there is any LBS nearby, for about $20 they will completely adjust your derailleurs (about a 5-minute job for someone experienced). OR, you can do it yourself. This is how I learned to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ

Best video I have found to explain how it works. Everything you have mentioned above is common and easily fixed. Youtube is your friend. The 105 group is very easy to adjust yourself. Spend about $15 and get a chain-whip and lockring tool and remove the cassette yourself.

on the path

I've got the same bike. I can brake very hard with 1 finger on each lever. Seriously. I don't understand why yours are giving you problems.

I thought my bike was a little noisy at first. I came off of a bike with a quieter drive train so I noticed it on the new bike. I think the chain got a little quieter after a bit of riding. My freewheel isn't too noisy. And yeah, don't cross-chain...

fishymamba

Brakes are probably not adjusted properly, I recommend getting a set of kool stop dual compound brake pads.

bassjones

If the lbs that sold you the bike let it out of their shop without being properly set up, I'd take it to another LBS and pay them to adjust everything, AND I'd probably not go back... Alternatively, I'd call the manager of said store and complain about it, then take it back in to be adjusted and spend some of the gift certificates they just gave me for my trouble...

The_DK

Took it to LBS after trying to adjust it slightly. It's still a little noisy (like card in spokes, but softly) in the cogs when in the big gear up front, but the small gear is silent now. He said that bit of noise is normal.
I'll put a couple hundo on it have them do another adjustment.


The mechanic pointed out some wetware issues that I am now avoiding as well... I could only cross chain my hybrid on 1 setting, but there's at least 3 on this bike.

Brakes stop hard now. Feel takes some getting used to, that's just wetware again!

Feels like a rocket by comparison.... This bike is quick!

Vaportrail56

I hate to hear that about your caad, I`ve got the same bike and I haven`t had any problems with mine. No noise coming from the cassette even when I coast. The brakes work great. Mine didn`t come with a dork disc. Sounds like your LBS didn`t set it up right. I would definitely take it back and talk to them about it. They should make it right if they want to keep your business. Good luck.
edit: I have a compact 50 teeth on the big chainring

BarracksSi

What's the "front chainstay"? You mean the front derailleur?

If that's what you mean, then it shouldn't rub in the big ring-small cog combo at all. You'll be able to adjust it, too.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ur-adjustments

Here's the things I look at when I do mine (which I haven't had to touch since installing it, btw) --

Mounting height -- is it close enough to the rings to keep the chain contained, yet far enough so it clears the big ring?

Angle -- is it aligned parallel to the chainrings?

Limit screws -- the low limit screw should hold the cage very close to the chain when it's in the small ring-big cog combo. The high limit screw should just barely clear the chain when it's on the big ring-small cog combo.

Cable tension -- it should be tight enough to eliminate as much play as possible in the shifter without holding the FD off of the low limit screw. A "third hand tool" helps with this a lot, but a pair of pliers (for pulling the cable) and proper use of the barrel adjuster (to fine tune the tension) will do the job fine.

When I adjust a front derailleur, I disconnect the cable before setting the height, angle, and low limit screw. Once those are good, the rest of it falls into place.

BarracksSi

Oh yeah ---

Whenever I've had noise in the RD that I just couldn't adjust out with cable tension or properly setting the limit screws, it turns out that the derailleur hanger is a little out of whack. Sometimes I can't even see it, but when I take it to a shop to get it checked (I haven't bought the tool... yet ) and say that "I think the hanger is bent," it always is.

It can happen during shipping from the factory or from just an errant knock. It's no big deal to flex/bend it back to normal, either.

The_DK

Now it only rubs on the big ring big cog combo (Cross chaining?( which I understand is normal...
The mechanic spent a good bit of time tinkering on it.

its a compact double.

definitely got that coasting click....


and with big cog front middle bakc, it's a little noisy when pedaling.

i used a stethescope, the noisy bits are the lower pulleys. But the guy did say it was normal.
the bike is MOSTLY quiet now.

The_DK

Well i was wrong, I was playing on the repair stand some more, and large front cog with any of the FOUR smaller cogs it scrapes the front derailleur. When I ride hard in large front-small rear it goeS CLANK CLANK CLANK.

noisy in the rear (pulleys) in ANY of the large front cog gears. It's the typical chain noise of a bike in a hanger, just a lot louder than I'm used to (on my often muddy hybrid.)

I guess really my only true problem is the scraping in the 4 smallest cogs of the cassette. I tried adjusting the H limit screw, but it still rubs.

Maybe it is the hanger. It would make sense I suppose!

DRietz

No. There should be a click in that front shifter to trim. Not to bring it all the way up to the big ring, but just to move that front derailleur slightly so the chain doesn't rub.

If you weren't a couple hours' drive from me, I'd fix it for you.

BarracksSi

In case you haven't noticed yet (and not everyone does), the FD shifter's trim click should be able to avoid rubbing the chain when cross-chaining.

One rub that may happen in the small-small combo on some bikes, even though your bike may not be experiencing it, would be when the chain rubs against parts on the inboard surface of the big chainring. I've noticed it more on some cranksets than others, and only in a compact style. The bigger size difference between the chainrings (50-34 versus a standard double's 53-39, for example) makes it happen.

BarracksSi

Let me put a little perspective here --

Unlike with cars, there's no such thing as an ASE Certified Bicycle Mechanic. I kinda joke that bikes are easy enough for the stoners at my local shop to fix, but it's true. With a few tools and some attention to detail, you can fix this yourself.

Some hex wrenches, a small flathead screwdriver (I hate using Philips drivers on limit screws since they get so grimy), and something for gripping the cable is all that's needed for derailleur adjustments.

If a moderately buzzed pothead can do it, anyone can.

BarracksSi

One more thing...

You should hear the Fulcrums I've got on standby. They're loud enough to scare little kids. They think they're being chased by a giant locust.

Mike F

My Boyd's are the same way. I kinda like the "Stuka" effect buzzing by joggers etc.

The_DK

He did point out the trim click, which helped with the next 5-8 cogs. It's just not quite enough for the last 1-4.

I guess I'll keep monkeying with it myself. I WOULD like to know how to handle all this stuff myself. I'll do some heavy reading at park tools.

In the mean time, if I stay in the small cog, I can still ride the bike without it driving me up the wall.


@haha at the locusts comment.

jaxgtr

YouTube as mentioned before or Take the Park Tool School, they go over all this stuff.