Budget Hot or Not....
#176
Iconoclast
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 2
From: California
Bikes: Colnago Super, Fuji Opus III, Specialized Rockhopper, Specialized Sirrus (road)
Hot.
#177
2010 Allez Steel frame 54CM
paid $550 came with Shimano 2300 crap.
$150-2003 litespeed atlas that was to big with only 25 miles on it.
It came with Campagnolo Centaur Gorup 10spd & Proton wheelset
I took all the parts and sold the frameset for $400...
#180
Behind EVERYone!!!

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,029
Likes: 111
From: Burlington ON, Canada
Bikes: 2010 Specialized Tricross Comp 105 Double
#181
Behind EVERYone!!!

Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,029
Likes: 111
From: Burlington ON, Canada
Bikes: 2010 Specialized Tricross Comp 105 Double
Here is my meager entry. Well under $2K and I love it!

Cheers,
Brian J.

Cheers,
Brian J.
__________________
“A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence. ”
― Bruce Lee
“A good teacher protects his pupils from his own influence. ”
― Bruce Lee
#182
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
Got a Rival group w/ Force cranks (now for sale) for much more than that. I thought it was a heck of a deal.
#183
Thread Starter
Portland, OR, USA

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 1
From: portland
Bikes: kona paddywagon, trek 2.1, lemond nevada city, gt zrx
Does a cyclocross commuter bike count? Below is my Cannondale CAADX Tiagra workhorse.

I use the bike mostly for commuting on the road but I do occasionally ride it on the trails:

A short video of the CAADX in commuter mode: https://www.youtube.com/v/2qe3CeIqSXs?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0&hd=1

I use the bike mostly for commuting on the road but I do occasionally ride it on the trails:

A short video of the CAADX in commuter mode: https://www.youtube.com/v/2qe3CeIqSXs?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0&hd=1
#184
certified vegetarian
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 364
Likes: 1
From: Houston, Texas
Bikes: 1973 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, 1988 Cannondale SR2000, 1994 Bridgestone XO-4, 1998 Bianchi Sam Remo, 1998 Ibis Spanky, 2009 Soma Rush, 2012 Surly Crosscheck
well since there is a cyclocross bike I'll post mine up.

2011 Surly Crosscheck
Canecreek 40 series threadless hs
Controltech stem
FSA wing pro(Undecided if I'm gonna keep, thats why they are untaped)
Brooks B17
Campagnolo Ti post
Crappy nashbar cranks/bb
Crappy performance wheelset
I dont have a dollar figure, but I'm pretty sure it was much less than 800 with all the parts I already had

2011 Surly Crosscheck
Canecreek 40 series threadless hs
Controltech stem
FSA wing pro(Undecided if I'm gonna keep, thats why they are untaped)
Brooks B17
Campagnolo Ti post
Crappy nashbar cranks/bb
Crappy performance wheelset
I dont have a dollar figure, but I'm pretty sure it was much less than 800 with all the parts I already had
#186
Owning a bike company budget bikes are the only bikes I ever get to ride.
Scavenging parts bins and looking for cast-off tubes in the tubing piles and hand me downs from friends let me put this thing together last winter-

The frame is the custom geometry I always run for myself, at least in terms of contact points. I mellowed the bike out a little bit for a lazier feel(slacker angles, lower bb, slightly longer stays) the fork is something that a customer with a longer headtube cracked the steer tube on(don't do this). The Ultegra stuff came off a CX bike I'd given to one of my riders 2 season previously.
Thomson stems just float around at a place like this, the Selcof post, god I don't know where it came from and the SLR was stolen from my BMX race bike
The fulcrum wheels are something I keep. They're fantastic.
Brakes are Durace 7400(8 speed era).
It was a pretty fun bike and pieced together out of stuff I had. The most important thing with any bike is that it fits right, nothing to complain about there. I prefer my personal bikes to feel a little peppier so the frame went into the hand-me-down pile.

I'm really much more a fan of the aluminum bikes so when I got this Skeletor production frame back for a warranty issue(cracked seatube) I ran some bead over it and re-reamed it moved most of the parts from the Ritchey to it while that frame was down for repairs. It's one of my production frames, but, big secret, I always make a production size identical to what my personal custom numbers are. One of my distributors had 105/Velocity a23 wheels for unfathomably short cash so I picked a pair up to have around to check tire clearance on rear wheels. They ride great too and for me, being semi-crusty, the ride of 32 butted spokes 3x with a Shimano hub in the middle of the whole shebang is second nature. The new Enve fork on there has been replaced by the cracked Edge fork. Can't let the bike get too fancy. Parts-bin Selle San Marco saddle, ubiquitos Thomson post, base-model Syntace stem, etc. I like the Fulcrum cranks enough that I scrounged enough money to buy them wholesale and that's a lot of money for a starving bike maker.
The bike that I have more miles on than i can even fathom is my Ritchey from 1995.

A solid 6 seasons of full-time elite level MTB training and my primary bike every winter until I had the oppourtunity to start building bikes for myself.
The American classic post and Ringle stem have been there since day one.
The rear wheel in this picture is a total piece of **** that an ex-roomate left in my basement. I normally run a velocity deep v 32h 3x on a re-spaced deore mtb hub.
Front wheel is a close-out bin 16h Ritchey hub on a deep v 16h radial. One of the best riding wheels I own. The Turbo was in the trash at a bike shop.
The Ultegra cranks have been on this bike since 1999. 9 speed Durace DT shifters are cheap and super reliable and the 3t Rotundo bars and Sram aero levers were scrounged from my parts bin. That frame has somewhere over 175,000 miles on it, maybe 200,000 at this point.
The frame itself has been under the torch twice. Once to fix some pinhole rust spots
on the chainstays and once to fix a massively bent deraileur hanger.
The bike I am riding right now is one of our new production models with the equivalent of our base-level Apex build kit.

I'm proud to be able to offer a $2350 complete bike with an American made frame, full 3t cockpit Enve 2.0 fork and Velocity A23/105 wheels and even Michelin ProRace3 tires that's not full of crappy stuff and make a little money off of it.
I'm hoping that I can put together a new frameset in the next few weeks to throw the parts off the Ritchey on to. I'm thinking slimmer 90's style aluminum tubing, horizontal toptube with a tig-welded unicrown steel fork with 1" steer tube would be awesome. If I'm not racing I have no desire to use integrated shifters. The price isn't worth it and frankly, I prefer the reliable feel and crispness of (cheap and light) Durace downtube shifters in 9v or 10v flavors. Last time we built a new aluminum frame for me I couldn't find anything to use for the lever bosses for the shifters. A bunch of calling around finally got me a pair that I can use on a new frame and I'm excited as heck. For the cost of tubes, consumables and heat treat I get to have a new ****ty bike to ride the crap out of!
Scavenging parts bins and looking for cast-off tubes in the tubing piles and hand me downs from friends let me put this thing together last winter-

The frame is the custom geometry I always run for myself, at least in terms of contact points. I mellowed the bike out a little bit for a lazier feel(slacker angles, lower bb, slightly longer stays) the fork is something that a customer with a longer headtube cracked the steer tube on(don't do this). The Ultegra stuff came off a CX bike I'd given to one of my riders 2 season previously.
Thomson stems just float around at a place like this, the Selcof post, god I don't know where it came from and the SLR was stolen from my BMX race bike
The fulcrum wheels are something I keep. They're fantastic.
Brakes are Durace 7400(8 speed era).
It was a pretty fun bike and pieced together out of stuff I had. The most important thing with any bike is that it fits right, nothing to complain about there. I prefer my personal bikes to feel a little peppier so the frame went into the hand-me-down pile.

I'm really much more a fan of the aluminum bikes so when I got this Skeletor production frame back for a warranty issue(cracked seatube) I ran some bead over it and re-reamed it moved most of the parts from the Ritchey to it while that frame was down for repairs. It's one of my production frames, but, big secret, I always make a production size identical to what my personal custom numbers are. One of my distributors had 105/Velocity a23 wheels for unfathomably short cash so I picked a pair up to have around to check tire clearance on rear wheels. They ride great too and for me, being semi-crusty, the ride of 32 butted spokes 3x with a Shimano hub in the middle of the whole shebang is second nature. The new Enve fork on there has been replaced by the cracked Edge fork. Can't let the bike get too fancy. Parts-bin Selle San Marco saddle, ubiquitos Thomson post, base-model Syntace stem, etc. I like the Fulcrum cranks enough that I scrounged enough money to buy them wholesale and that's a lot of money for a starving bike maker.
The bike that I have more miles on than i can even fathom is my Ritchey from 1995.

A solid 6 seasons of full-time elite level MTB training and my primary bike every winter until I had the oppourtunity to start building bikes for myself.
The American classic post and Ringle stem have been there since day one.
The rear wheel in this picture is a total piece of **** that an ex-roomate left in my basement. I normally run a velocity deep v 32h 3x on a re-spaced deore mtb hub.
Front wheel is a close-out bin 16h Ritchey hub on a deep v 16h radial. One of the best riding wheels I own. The Turbo was in the trash at a bike shop.
The Ultegra cranks have been on this bike since 1999. 9 speed Durace DT shifters are cheap and super reliable and the 3t Rotundo bars and Sram aero levers were scrounged from my parts bin. That frame has somewhere over 175,000 miles on it, maybe 200,000 at this point.
The frame itself has been under the torch twice. Once to fix some pinhole rust spots
on the chainstays and once to fix a massively bent deraileur hanger.
The bike I am riding right now is one of our new production models with the equivalent of our base-level Apex build kit.

I'm proud to be able to offer a $2350 complete bike with an American made frame, full 3t cockpit Enve 2.0 fork and Velocity A23/105 wheels and even Michelin ProRace3 tires that's not full of crappy stuff and make a little money off of it.
I'm hoping that I can put together a new frameset in the next few weeks to throw the parts off the Ritchey on to. I'm thinking slimmer 90's style aluminum tubing, horizontal toptube with a tig-welded unicrown steel fork with 1" steer tube would be awesome. If I'm not racing I have no desire to use integrated shifters. The price isn't worth it and frankly, I prefer the reliable feel and crispness of (cheap and light) Durace downtube shifters in 9v or 10v flavors. Last time we built a new aluminum frame for me I couldn't find anything to use for the lever bosses for the shifters. A bunch of calling around finally got me a pair that I can use on a new frame and I'm excited as heck. For the cost of tubes, consumables and heat treat I get to have a new ****ty bike to ride the crap out of!
#189
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Resurrecting this thread because I was waiting to post on it while building this bike.
I already know she's a not, but just finished building her and taking her for a maiden ride yesterday. Started with 1995 Bianchi Campione D'Italia frame, added a SRAM 900 crank, old stem and Zipp handlebars from my parts bin, SRAM force RD, SRAM rival FD and brakes, SRAM Red left/front shifter and SRAM Force right/rear shifter. Wheel aren't bike specific, I just swap them between my bikes at the moment, PT Pro+ HED Bastogne rear and Mavic Ksyrium Elite front. Saddle is a Toupe (not normally that tipped up, I must have made a mistake on a mid ride adjustment and not noticed. It's more level now) from my other bike that I had replaced with a Romin.
She's the Blue Daemon (Frankenstein's monster reference)
I already know she's a not, but just finished building her and taking her for a maiden ride yesterday. Started with 1995 Bianchi Campione D'Italia frame, added a SRAM 900 crank, old stem and Zipp handlebars from my parts bin, SRAM force RD, SRAM rival FD and brakes, SRAM Red left/front shifter and SRAM Force right/rear shifter. Wheel aren't bike specific, I just swap them between my bikes at the moment, PT Pro+ HED Bastogne rear and Mavic Ksyrium Elite front. Saddle is a Toupe (not normally that tipped up, I must have made a mistake on a mid ride adjustment and not noticed. It's more level now) from my other bike that I had replaced with a Romin.
She's the Blue Daemon (Frankenstein's monster reference)
Last edited by Jsiegs; 02-04-12 at 09:44 PM.
#190
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville
#192
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
im not sold on the saddle but it is still a hot bike. i miss the class of silver parts and that frame color is a perfect place to hang them.
#193
King Hoternot
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,255
Likes: 0
From: Oregon City, OR
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
#194
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville
I'm a nut for silver stuff but it doesn't always work on modern frames. On that one it works even better that it appears in the photo because the color is blue powder coat with a slight metal flake clear coat over it. In sun light it's pretty stunning.
#195
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
if it is comfortable for you fine, but dont try and convince me that it is only slightly tipped.
#196
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
4th saddle she's tried. This ones a Terry and their supposed to know about girl parts.
I'm a nut for silver stuff but it doesn't always work on modern frames. On that one it works even better that it appears in the photo because the color is blue powder coat with a slight metal flake clear coat over it. In sun light it's pretty stunning.
I'm a nut for silver stuff but it doesn't always work on modern frames. On that one it works even better that it appears in the photo because the color is blue powder coat with a slight metal flake clear coat over it. In sun light it's pretty stunning.
when i built my wifes bike she wanted silver components, a white saddle, white bar tape, and pink cable housing. the end result was great.
ive got about $350 in this build (the brake levers are now silver)
#197
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: GTA, Canada
Some more pics of the nite rider:

Side by side with a streetcar at night:

Last edited by cyclocommuter; 02-04-12 at 07:11 PM.
#198
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Although, I'm not hugely concered on convincing anyone of anything or making excuses. It looked weird to me and I guessed at why.
#199
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
#200
Case in point...my 2009 Trek 1.5.

I got a 2009 and paid a 2008/leftover price for it.
Here's an 08' 1.5 & Madone 6.9.


The current trend by Cannondale & Specialized of making aluminum
copies of their carbon superbikes was being done by Trek 5 years ago.
________________________________________________________________________
My 2nd budget bike, my 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-7.
Before it was assembled, I had the Ultegra SL crank installed.

I got a 2009 and paid a 2008/leftover price for it.
Here's an 08' 1.5 & Madone 6.9.


The current trend by Cannondale & Specialized of making aluminum
copies of their carbon superbikes was being done by Trek 5 years ago.
________________________________________________________________________
My 2nd budget bike, my 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-7.
Before it was assembled, I had the Ultegra SL crank installed.
Last edited by 2ndGen; 02-04-12 at 08:01 PM.





