Buy a level or, you're doing it wrong.
01-30-12 | 07:25 PM
#51
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,095
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From: Boone, North Carolina
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
well, the rules say within 3 degrees of level
https://velonews.competitor.com/2011/...visited_200823
https://velonews.competitor.com/2011/...visited_200823
01-30-12 | 07:40 PM
#52
your god hates me
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,909
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Bikes: 2026 Crumpton T5, 2016 Richard Sachs, 2010 Carl Strong, 2006 Cannondale Synapse
My wife has a Salsa Shaft on both of her bikes, and every time she has to tweak her saddle -- which she used to do constantly 'cuz she was screwing around with her position, but now that I think of it, she must be pretty dialed in 'cuz I haven't seen her messing with anything lately. Oh, sorry, I digress --
Every time I watched her tweak the saddle angle with that cool wrench-activated cam, I'd think "Why couldn't every seatpost be as cool as that?"
01-30-12 | 08:20 PM
#53
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Bikes: Colnago C59 Italia Di2
A loit of seat clamps will actually fail if the rails are clamped level with the ground, its outside the design angle for many.
As a side note, the specialized Romin is another that technically can point down becasue it has such a kick up at the back. I set mine level with kick up at the back rather than just running a level rfom the nose to the tail, its comfortable for centuries so its good enough
As a side note, the specialized Romin is another that technically can point down becasue it has such a kick up at the back. I set mine level with kick up at the back rather than just running a level rfom the nose to the tail, its comfortable for centuries so its good enough
01-30-12 | 09:47 PM
#54
Artificial Member
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: The Cloud
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
Damn.
It is a good thread!
How about saddle flex? I read some interview with an Italian saddle builder and he was all about the rail flex giving comfort. Longer rails = better ride.
It is a good thread!
How about saddle flex? I read some interview with an Italian saddle builder and he was all about the rail flex giving comfort. Longer rails = better ride.
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01-30-12 | 09:56 PM
#58
Artificial Member
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From: The Cloud
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
01-31-12 | 03:52 AM
#59
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Haarlem, Netherlands
Bikes: Pinarello Dogma F8, Pinarello Bolide, Argon 18 E-118, Bianchi Oltre, Cervelo S1, Wilier Pista
I ride Selle SMP, so I guess I get a pass. 
Seriously, I have SMP saddles on all of my bikes, and the rails are not level to the ground. If they were, I would be sliding off of it.
Seriously, I have SMP saddles on all of my bikes, and the rails are not level to the ground. If they were, I would be sliding off of it.
01-31-12 | 03:58 AM
#60
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Northern VA
Bikes: 2008 Trek Madone 5.5, 2009 Cervelo R3SL tdf edition, Cervelo R5 with Di2
Different rules for different saddles sometimes, at least for me. When I use a Toupe it's just about dead-level. I find with the Fizik Alliante that I need the nose pointed up a bit or I feel like I'm going to slide off the front onto the toptube.
01-31-12 | 09:24 AM
#61
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Floriduh
Bikes: 2011 Neuvation FC100, 2013 Mercier Kilo TT Pro, 1984 Peugeot SV-L
I have a Specialized Romin Pro that was an absolute hatchet when set level tip-to-tail. I have since set it so it's level measured only on the portion of the seat that I actually sit on and it's quite comfortable. Although, it does look like it's pointed downwards when just looking at it.
01-31-12 | 11:21 AM
#62
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From: N Central Illinois
Bikes: 12 Bianchi Oltre VDCM,11 Bianchi Cavaria, 13 Bianchi Cavaria,12 Bianchi infinito, couple vintage Bianchi's and a 1980 alan super record
I tried the level saddle method and it did not work for me so I just adjusted a bit at a time until I found a tolerable spot. I still don't find my saddle very nice for longer distances, but it seems everyone I have asked has a different opinion about what is right. Even had an lbs tell me the way he set it up is correct even though it killed me. Being new again to cycling, I'd love someone with the experience to be able to help me learn about bike set up not just do it and send me on my way. Knowing the mechanics behind it is the interesting part, great thread though, thanks all.
01-31-12 | 12:16 PM
#63
yada yada
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 130
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From: Decatur, GA
Bikes: Felt F5, Surly CrossCheck
https://cobbcycling.com/installation_tips.cfm
This probably doesn't apply to all saddles, but my cobb v-flow plus is very comfortable pointed up a few degrees. No pressure on the hands and no numb nuts.
This probably doesn't apply to all saddles, but my cobb v-flow plus is very comfortable pointed up a few degrees. No pressure on the hands and no numb nuts.
02-01-12 | 12:27 PM
#65
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Charm City
"Buy a level or, you're doing it wrong. "
Complete hogwash. In fact, if you see a "bike fitter" come towards you with a level or plumb-bob, run away.
What does gravity have to do with proper bike position (whether it be gravity measured with a plumb-bob or the perpendicular of gravity as measured with a level)?
For example, you could have a perfect bike fit with the optimal position for maximal power output for your body that just happened to include a saddle position that was perfectly level. Then you decide to use a larger wheel on the rear (a change in frame geometry would be another example). Now, you would have the exact same optimal body position on the bike but the saddle would be pointed slightly downward (as to its relation to gravity).
Again, if you see a clown coming at you with a plumb-bob or a level, walk out of that store. The guy doesn't know what he is doing.
Complete hogwash. In fact, if you see a "bike fitter" come towards you with a level or plumb-bob, run away.
What does gravity have to do with proper bike position (whether it be gravity measured with a plumb-bob or the perpendicular of gravity as measured with a level)?
For example, you could have a perfect bike fit with the optimal position for maximal power output for your body that just happened to include a saddle position that was perfectly level. Then you decide to use a larger wheel on the rear (a change in frame geometry would be another example). Now, you would have the exact same optimal body position on the bike but the saddle would be pointed slightly downward (as to its relation to gravity).
Again, if you see a clown coming at you with a plumb-bob or a level, walk out of that store. The guy doesn't know what he is doing.
The level-saddle-when-on-level-ground myth implies that your saddle is out of position when going up or down a hill. hmm...
