Upgrade path ?
#1
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LBKA (formerly punkncat)

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From: Jawja
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
Upgrade path ?
Just curious, I often see people recommend things along the line of clipless pedals, wheels, better groupset as the first line of upgrades one should consider towards better performance....but what then? After those items are done, what would you consider the next group of important items to upgrade?
#3
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LBKA (formerly punkncat)

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From: Jawja
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
That's a given and happening all the time anyway, just meant in a general kind of way. I am looking towards that next line of things to start considering.
#4
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From: Far beyond the pale horizon.
Just curious, I often see people recommend things along the line of clipless pedals, wheels, better groupset as the first line of upgrades one should consider towards better performance....but what then? After those items are done, what would you consider the next group of important items to upgrade?
Anyway, if you are talking about reducing effort/increasing speed on the flats and downhills on a road bike, the best performance "upgrade" is one that is free: use your drops more.
#7
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From: Edmonds Wa
Bikes: 2014 Felt F2 2015 Specialized Tarmac Sport
I think the best upgrade I have made is a good set of tires. I went with Vittoria Corsa Evo's high thread count. They are a nice smooth ride. I know the Conti GP4000's are a BF approved tire but I have had good luck with these. I also have found the right saddle is worth its weight in gold. I ordered and am waiting for a set of Ksyrium Elites but other than making the bike lighter I do not expect it will make me any faster. Spinning the peddles will do that, the rest of it is just to keep my interest up.
#8
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I'm doing it wrong.

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One of the better upgrades I did was get a better quality set of riding jerseys, bibs, and winter weather riding gear.
#10
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From: Haunchyville
If you can't figure it out yourself, a pro-fit might help. And/or a power meter.
Actually, those might do more than the groupset. Unless your mechanic sucks or your gearing is inappropriate upgrading groups won't really do much.
Actually, those might do more than the groupset. Unless your mechanic sucks or your gearing is inappropriate upgrading groups won't really do much.
#11
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LBKA (formerly punkncat)

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From: Jawja
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
I certainly understand where you are coming from, as well as the other poster above discussing the diminishing returns of the upgrade path as you progress. At the same time, the LBS isn't there just to give free advice and fix broke stuff, they sell goods too. There are a couple of things that I have and am considering doing to further personalize my bike, just wondering as a topic of discussion.
#12
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LBKA (formerly punkncat)

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From: Jawja
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Pro fit was also a quality investment, very good results in my power output and comfort on the bike.
#13
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From: Northern Nevada
No, it's dead right from where I sit...
For the OP, replace what doesn't work the way you want it to. If it works the way you want it to, then an upgrade would be pointless. And while you'll be more comfortable with good shorts and maybe a little faster with good shoes and pedals (but not THAT much faster), a $120 jersey is no faster than a T-shirt.
For the OP, replace what doesn't work the way you want it to. If it works the way you want it to, then an upgrade would be pointless. And while you'll be more comfortable with good shorts and maybe a little faster with good shoes and pedals (but not THAT much faster), a $120 jersey is no faster than a T-shirt.
Last edited by Velo Dog; 03-05-12 at 09:16 PM.
#14
Maud Magnet
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Allez Comp, 2001 Kona Stuff
Yeah, the initial price of the bike is just a down payment...
My order of "upgrades":
1. The bike w/ Pro fit.
2. Speedplay cleats, shoes and socks.
3. Helmet, gloves, water bottles & cages, a saddle bag, spare tubes, tire patches, CO2 cartridges and a multitool.
4. Clothing: 3 bibs, 3 jerseys, 2 skull caps, sunglasses, a lightweight windbreaker, leg & arm warmers and shoe covers (I live near a Pearl Izumi outlet - lucky me!)
5. Garmin Edge 200 so I could save some basic ride metrics and track my progress.
6. Park Tools mechanic stand, tool tray, tool box and an assortment of bike tools.
7. Upgraded wheelset.
8. Changed bar tape & cable housings
9. And finally, yesterday, I upgraded my saddle.
What's really sick is that I've done all of this since Jan 14th, which was when I bought the bike.
My next upgrades will be a lighter seat post & stem, after that maybe better brakes, then perhaps lighter crankarms, and eventually the front & rear derailleurs.
My order of "upgrades":
1. The bike w/ Pro fit.
2. Speedplay cleats, shoes and socks.
3. Helmet, gloves, water bottles & cages, a saddle bag, spare tubes, tire patches, CO2 cartridges and a multitool.
4. Clothing: 3 bibs, 3 jerseys, 2 skull caps, sunglasses, a lightweight windbreaker, leg & arm warmers and shoe covers (I live near a Pearl Izumi outlet - lucky me!)
5. Garmin Edge 200 so I could save some basic ride metrics and track my progress.
6. Park Tools mechanic stand, tool tray, tool box and an assortment of bike tools.
7. Upgraded wheelset.
8. Changed bar tape & cable housings
9. And finally, yesterday, I upgraded my saddle.
What's really sick is that I've done all of this since Jan 14th, which was when I bought the bike.

My next upgrades will be a lighter seat post & stem, after that maybe better brakes, then perhaps lighter crankarms, and eventually the front & rear derailleurs.
Last edited by antmeeks; 03-05-12 at 09:18 PM.
#16
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so yeah. if you don't have a job. maybe you shouldn't upgrade. but if you have a stable job and can afford to buy things then why shouldn't you.
#17
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
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#18
Maud Magnet
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From: Atlanta, GA
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Allez Comp, 2001 Kona Stuff
#20
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LBKA (formerly punkncat)

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From: Jawja
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, GT Traffic 1.0
It's funny that you mention this, as it was a point of discussion with a friend today. I was talking with him about how all the cars here in town have been really respectful, given me plenty of room, not even tried to pass. We went for a quick ride across town to the hardware store wearing "street" clothes and got passed and honked at. In spite of wearing a helmet, there is some apparent perception change from drivers around here when wearing kit.
#22
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From: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey R380 Ti | 2011 Hampsten Travelissimo Gran Paradiso Ti | 2001 De Rosa Neo Primato - Batik Del Monte, Genius | 1991 Eddy Merckx - Motorola, TSX
Just curious, I often see people recommend things along the line of clipless pedals, wheels, better groupset as the first line of upgrades one should consider towards better performance....but what then? After those items are done, what would you consider the next group of important items to upgrade?
Maybe not focus so much on "performance" but enjoying the ride, the air, the scenery, etc.
(says the guy who bought a powermeter)
#23
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From: San Diego, CA
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Tires are a good one.
Good, well fitting and comfortable clothes are huge in terms of actually getting you out and biking.
Groupset is way, way down there. Wheels are slightly better.
Good, well fitting and comfortable clothes are huge in terms of actually getting you out and biking.
Groupset is way, way down there. Wheels are slightly better.
#24
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From: Boone, North Carolina
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
I ride a '09 CAAD 9. The CAAD frame is the only thing that is original equipment that remains. I have upgraded the fork, seatpost, saddle, bars, bar tape, bar end caps, stem, wheels, tires, group set, and the engine. When I bought the bike, I weighed 58 lbs. more than I do now.
The upgrade that added the most noticable difference early on was the wheel set upgrade. If you're still riding the OEM wheels, consider upgrading them. If you get a good set, you absolutely will be able to tell a difference.
The upgrade that added the most noticable difference early on was the wheel set upgrade. If you're still riding the OEM wheels, consider upgrading them. If you get a good set, you absolutely will be able to tell a difference.
#25
pan y agua

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From: Jacksonville
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Once you have the power meter, you don't ned the HRM.
Heart rate is a relatively poor proxy for power. So once you have the power data, you really don't need HR. I never bother with the heart rate strap using the power meter, and most of the people I know using power meters no longer bother with HR data.
Heart rate is a relatively poor proxy for power. So once you have the power data, you really don't need HR. I never bother with the heart rate strap using the power meter, and most of the people I know using power meters no longer bother with HR data.
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