Size matters
03-26-12, 02:14 AM
#1
Young wippersnapper
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Size matters
Hello 
Took my roadie out for a quick spin yesterday (pic below, just because I can
) and noticed that when my pedals are around the 3 o'clock position if it turn the front wheel tight enough my foot rubs against the tyre (not even just touching the end, it touches about an inch down). My question is whether the bike is getting too small for me - I'm sixteen and still growing, and love the bike. I'm more of a mountain biker in general do would appreciate some general tips in working out whether it is the right size or not.
Cheers
Took my roadie out for a quick spin yesterday (pic below, just because I can
) and noticed that when my pedals are around the 3 o'clock position if it turn the front wheel tight enough my foot rubs against the tyre (not even just touching the end, it touches about an inch down). My question is whether the bike is getting too small for me - I'm sixteen and still growing, and love the bike. I'm more of a mountain biker in general do would appreciate some general tips in working out whether it is the right size or not. Cheers
03-26-12, 02:40 AM
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It's called 'toe overlap'. It doesn't mean the bike is too small. The top tube is (mainly) determines if your bike is too big or small for you. Go look at competitive cyclists fit calculator to get an idea of what size of back you should be on.
03-26-12, 03:34 AM
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Nice looking bike, Buggington. I have toe overlap too. I think with the smaller frame sizes in more traditional geometry (horizontal top tube) you may have toe overlap. I've never had an incident, but I am careful to avoid situations that might lead to a crash.
03-26-12, 06:44 AM
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Something tells me that I need toget used to this though.
03-26-12, 07:34 AM
#6
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Europe size 42 - no idea what that is in English money!
03-26-12, 07:54 AM
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(reach: https://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/...k-a-good-idea/)
Toe overlap only matters in low speed turns, like when you are turning around in a parking lot at a race. That's where I discovered that the frame I'd been on for two years has toe overlap. I didn't crash, that would have been embarassing.
Now that you know you have toe overlap, just remember to 'clock' the cranks when you are turning- push down with the inside crank, then back pedal slightly so you can push down again. If the crank on the outside of the turn is to the rear your toe won't be close to the wheel. If the overlap isn't severe another way to keep the wheel from hitting your toe is to drop your heel as the outside crank passes the front wheel.
03-26-12, 07:59 AM
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Bike too small? No. Very little seat post showing...size up and you can't adjust the saddle on that geometry. Drop looks managable...especially if you are young and you can adjust that by rotating your bars....which are a bit too turn down by conventional standards. Toe overlap is normal as mentioned on smallish frames. Now you know that so ride accordingly.
03-26-12, 08:22 AM
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Top tube angle has no effect on toe overlap. The frame's reach, head tube angle and fork offset are what matters.
(reach: https://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/...k-a-good-idea/)
Toe overlap only matters in low speed turns, like when you are turning around in a parking lot at a race. That's where I discovered that the frame I'd been on for two years has toe overlap. I didn't crash, that would have been embarassing.
Now that you know you have toe overlap, just remember to 'clock' the cranks when you are turning- push down with the inside crank, then back pedal slightly so you can push down again. If the crank on the outside of the turn is to the rear your toe won't be close to the wheel. If the overlap isn't severe another way to keep the wheel from hitting your toe is to drop your heel as the outside crank passes the front wheel.
(reach: https://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/...k-a-good-idea/)
Toe overlap only matters in low speed turns, like when you are turning around in a parking lot at a race. That's where I discovered that the frame I'd been on for two years has toe overlap. I didn't crash, that would have been embarassing.
Now that you know you have toe overlap, just remember to 'clock' the cranks when you are turning- push down with the inside crank, then back pedal slightly so you can push down again. If the crank on the outside of the turn is to the rear your toe won't be close to the wheel. If the overlap isn't severe another way to keep the wheel from hitting your toe is to drop your heel as the outside crank passes the front wheel.
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03-26-12, 08:27 AM
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Bike too small? No. Very little seat post showing...size up and you can't adjust the saddle on that geometry. Drop looks managable...especially if you are young and you can adjust that by rotating your bars....which are a bit too turn down by conventional standards. Toe overlap is normal as mentioned on smallish frames. Now you know that so ride accordingly.
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03-26-12, 12:35 PM
#12
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Top tube angle has no effect on toe overlap. The frame's reach, head tube angle and fork offset are what matters.
(reach: https://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/...k-a-good-idea/)
Toe overlap only matters in low speed turns, like when you are turning around in a parking lot at a race. That's where I discovered that the frame I'd been on for two years has toe overlap. I didn't crash, that would have been embarassing.
Now that you know you have toe overlap, just remember to 'clock' the cranks when you are turning- push down with the inside crank, then back pedal slightly so you can push down again. If the crank on the outside of the turn is to the rear your toe won't be close to the wheel. If the overlap isn't severe another way to keep the wheel from hitting your toe is to drop your heel as the outside crank passes the front wheel.
(reach: https://www.sicklines.com/2008/12/18/...k-a-good-idea/)
Toe overlap only matters in low speed turns, like when you are turning around in a parking lot at a race. That's where I discovered that the frame I'd been on for two years has toe overlap. I didn't crash, that would have been embarassing.
Now that you know you have toe overlap, just remember to 'clock' the cranks when you are turning- push down with the inside crank, then back pedal slightly so you can push down again. If the crank on the outside of the turn is to the rear your toe won't be close to the wheel. If the overlap isn't severe another way to keep the wheel from hitting your toe is to drop your heel as the outside crank passes the front wheel.
03-26-12, 12:36 PM
#13
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It suits me quite well, once I get used to the riding style of the roadie it probably won't be too bad. I hadn't realised the bars were quite low - the ones on my Dad's Butler are even lower! No wonder he has a bad back!
I always do this anyway without really thinking, and the roadie is normally used for country lanes - I tend to throw my MTB round town instead as it has better tyres and brakes.
I always do this anyway without really thinking, and the roadie is normally used for country lanes - I tend to throw my MTB round town instead as it has better tyres and brakes.
03-26-12, 01:01 PM
#14
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Normal on bigger frames too. I ride a 58cm effective TT compact frame and will occasionally get "stuck" on the front tire with my toe while standing at a light. With my right foot on the ground, my left foot at 3:00 (or is it 9:00)...well...forward horizontally...I often turn my bars slightly right and it hits my toe. Of course, doesn't happen while riding since bars are rarely turned much except at very slow speeds. I wear a 12.5 u.s. shoe (maybe 47/48?)
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03-26-12, 01:07 PM
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My bike is a 64cm and has MAJOR toe overlap.
The presence (or absence) of toe overlap has little to do with whether the frame fits you properly.
It's not a big deal if correct fit results in toe overlap, just be aware it's there so if you are turning at very low speed you know not to bump your wheel with your foot. I sometimes have to "ratchet pedal" when starting off and turning.
The presence (or absence) of toe overlap has little to do with whether the frame fits you properly.
It's not a big deal if correct fit results in toe overlap, just be aware it's there so if you are turning at very low speed you know not to bump your wheel with your foot. I sometimes have to "ratchet pedal" when starting off and turning.
03-26-12, 01:57 PM
#16
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My bike is a 64cm and has MAJOR toe overlap.
The presence (or absence) of toe overlap has little to do with whether the frame fits you properly.
It's not a big deal if correct fit results in toe overlap, just be aware it's there so if you are turning at very low speed you know not to bump your wheel with your foot. I sometimes have to "ratchet pedal" when starting off and turning.
The presence (or absence) of toe overlap has little to do with whether the frame fits you properly.
It's not a big deal if correct fit results in toe overlap, just be aware it's there so if you are turning at very low speed you know not to bump your wheel with your foot. I sometimes have to "ratchet pedal" when starting off and turning.
And 64cm?! :O
03-26-12, 05:04 PM
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03-26-12, 10:01 PM
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Off-frame contributing factors include: big feet, long cranks, fat tires, midfoot cleat positioning. I don't do midfoot, but I know that if I don't get a little overlap my cleats are too far forward.
03-26-12, 11:49 PM
#20
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I suppose it only made me wonder then. What do you mean by fork offset?
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