Wax for a new frame?
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 27
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Wax for a new frame?
I had my derailleur hanger snap today which totaled my frame and rear wheel. While I'm very bummed, on the bright side I wasn't hurt. While I really loved my bike, there were places that had gotten dirty during the first month that I rode it that I could never quite get clean, and I often wished that I had waxed it when I first got it to protect it better (the bottom of the downtube was white, so I guess that didn't help). While I'm waiting to hear what will happen with my bike from the shop, I do know for sure that I'll either be riding a new frame or a new bike very soon, and I want to wax or treat it with something so that nothing will "settle" into the paint.
Any recommendations?
Any recommendations?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
I reccomend a more permanent synthetic sealant over a natural carnuba wax. Top options include Optimum Opti-coat 2.0. A similar more budget freindly product that is really good is car pro C-Quartz. Opti-coat will remain permanently until physically removed via polisher. C-Quartz will last about 1-2 years.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
#3
I reccomend a more permanent synthetic sealant over a natural carnuba wax. Top options include Optimum Opti-coat 2.0. A similar more budget freindly product that is really good is car pro C-Quartz. Opti-coat will remain permanently until physically removed via polisher. C-Quartz will last about 1-2 years.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
Please educate a bit on frame paint protection. Thanks
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,104
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Carnuba is good but it breaks down and wears off. With a sealant you really only need to re-apply it once every couple years. Save time cleaning and more time riding!
#6
#9
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
#10
Okay. I just thought it'll be cool to have a wax job you only do every couple of years as opposed to the Meguiar's Carnauba Plus Wax I presently use on my car and bikes every three months or so.
#11
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 27
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I reccomend a more permanent synthetic sealant over a natural carnuba wax. Top options include Optimum Opti-coat 2.0. A similar more budget freindly product that is really good is car pro C-Quartz. Opti-coat will remain permanently until physically removed via polisher. C-Quartz will last about 1-2 years.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
I have optimum opti-coat on all my bikes and my cars. Will last for many years. Extremely easy to clean and protects the paint.
I have a White car and a White CAAD10. My chainstay and area near my BB are very easy to clean if dirt even has a chance to stick.
I know some other folks might think doing this is a bit over the top, I really wish I had known to do this with my original frame. I only wipe down / wax my bike when it gets really dirty, but the fact that there was grime and blemishes that I couldn't get out really "bugged" me. Thanks for the tip NWS!
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 624
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From: NYC
Maybe I'm offbase here, but my impression is that wax & sealants are good for (1) creating a visual luster and (2) making it easier to wipe away grime when you wash the bike with soap and water. Presumably the wax/sealant is broken down immediately in spots like the bottom of the downtube and rear of the seattube that are sandblasted with grit on a wet ride. Works well for cars because they aren't with the exception of the front bumper & grill (and wheel wells, obviously), which I've noticed lose their luster almost immediately, and I've tried a lot of products. And you'll still need to get to those hard to reach spots to wipe away dirt anyway. I'm not against the idea, I just think it's hardly worth the thought you (or I, for that matter) have just put into it.
#16
If you ride really frequently then chances are you wash your bike every once in a while (every 500-1000 miles or after muck riding..?). A good wash, dry, then Pledge wipe down with a cloth. Much else is beauty work but regular care means less complexity yields fine results...
BTW OP, not sure what your are not getting clean in your washing but tooth brushes help w/ hard to reach.
BTW OP, not sure what your are not getting clean in your washing but tooth brushes help w/ hard to reach.
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