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How do you choose a saddle
How do you guys choose / shop for a saddle? What are some key things to look for?
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Everyone is different. I went through five saddles before I found one that worked for me. Now I know what I need. I need a wide cut out in the middle of the saddle. I know what length and width I need and I know that I like a firm saddle. Look for a bike shop that lets you try a saddle. Also, even when you find a saddle that works for you, it may take a while for you to adjust to it.
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Choose a random one and pray to the heavens it is perfect for your unit?
Or, try an absurdly uncomfortable saddle for a little while and then switch to one that you like the looks of and use psychology to trick yourself into believing the cool one you like is comfortable with regards to the bad one you just tried. |
first determine if you like a hammock type saddle (like a horse saddle) or a flat seat, then choose one of these handy pdxtex approved options....
hammock - san marco concor, wtb rocket v, selle italia flite (original), fizik aliente. flat - fizik arione, sell italia flite (current), san marco zoncolan... or something in between, specialized romin...ok all done. tah dah! |
Originally Posted by WorldIRC
(Post 14073643)
How do you guys choose / shop for a saddle? What are some key things to look for?
I went through several saddles before I found the one I liked. Started with the stock saddle on my Univega Modovincere, then found a Specialized somethingaruther in a discount bin, then a Bontrager stock saddle when I got a Trek Madone, then a Selle Italia Max Flite, then a Selle Italia SLR, then a Terry Fly, then finally a Selle Italia Flite. I have the Flite on all my road bikes now. It's a process; for me, one which took the better part of a decade as I started riding more and more, and as my riding style changed for commuter to sport touring to racing. So it's not just something I just went out and did all at once. In fact, I rode the SLR for two years and over 10k miles before I figured it was a bit too narrow for me and giving me saddle sores. I would suggest figuring out if you need a narrow or wide saddle, a good shop should be able to help with that. Then just try something. Expect to pay about $100 for a good saddle. There is a world of difference between stock saddles and "good" saddles. |
At a group ride, with friends, ask to sit on as many as you're interested in. That may rule a few out.
With the above info, take your bike to an lbs that will allow you to mount it in their trainer and try athose that made your short list. Most shops will allow this if you've committed to purchasing a saddle from them. When Mrs. Fred was in the market, three different shops offered, that if she purchased a woman's saddle from them, she would be free to exchange it for other saddles for the difference in price as long as she hadn't ridden it in the rain or damaged it. They were willing to accept clamp marks on the saddle as long as she was willing to accept the same from any saddles she tried and eventually purchased. Selle Italia and I believe Specialized both have "test saddle" programs that provide shops with one each of their saddles at reduced cost for the purpose of loaning them out for this very purpose. Basically, narrow your choices down by eliminating the uncomfortable, then trial a few to find the best fit. |
Originally Posted by Brian Ratliff
(Post 14073854)
Some stuff to think about:
It takes some trial and error to determine what your preference is for those key features. First get ahold of a saddle that appears to be the right width, and give it a go. Pay attention to what you like and dislike in the other features. Go for some rides of a decent length. Most of us can ride 20 km on a less than ideal saddle (although I've encountered some saddles that were bad after about 5 km) ... usually the problems start manifesting themselves after 50 km or 100 km. A really good shop will let you trial a saddle for 6 months. A decent shop will let you trial a saddle for 1 month. At the very least a shop should let you return the saddle after a week if you don't like it. |
Its funny out of all the threads about choosing saddles no body ever mentions the ass-o-meter saddle fitting tool that specialized provides. I never used it but in theory it should help you decide what saddle dimensions fit your body.
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Originally Posted by Mondo734
(Post 14074712)
Its funny out of all the threads about choosing saddles no body ever mentions the ass-o-meter saddle fitting tool that specialized provides. I never used it but in theory it should help you decide what saddle dimensions fit your body.
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Originally Posted by WorldIRC
(Post 14073643)
How do you guys choose / shop for a saddle? What are some key things to look for?
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Test saddle programs > everything else.
Unless: 1. you want to spend money buying-selling what didn't work for you 2. you just have tons of fellow cyclist-friends who will be nice enough to lend you his saddle for week/s Numbers (widths, sit bones, etc) are only a part of the "mystery". You really have to TRY and use a saddle to figure out what works for you and your "boys". Testing a saddle @ the shop doesn't make any sense. That's only a brief period of time and you need to put on hours to figure out what's best for you. |
To be honest, as a (relatively) light rider, I find most any seat works. The only one I couldn't get along with was an SLR, which I sent free to someone in Montreal. Mostly, I just pick one that matches my bike. That being said, the Fizik Aliante is one I can ride all day and don't need to spend time getting used to again at the beginning of a new season.
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I recently bought and now ride a Selle SMP. It is the greatest saddle ever. I have rode on Selle Italia and a Pluto Titec for about 12,000 miles and they were fine. But there was still relief getting off the bike and aniticpation getting on the bike. Those are gone now. Width, length, fore/aft/angle, and contour are all pretty personal things to each rider. I'm fortunate to find mine. Good luck to you.
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@Machka
I didnt try it because the Body Geometry Phenom Comp that came with my Crux fit me great, otherwise I would have tried it. |
If you do not care about the weight and can find a shop that will let you try saddles, I would also throw in Gilles Berthoud or Brooks leather saddles. If you are on a road bike with a decent drop, then you want their sportier models (e.g. Brooks Team Pro).
For me, I settled on the bontrager inform RL. |
Originally Posted by lesdunham
(Post 14074983)
I recently bought and now ride a Selle SMP. It is the greatest saddle ever. I have rode on Selle Italia and a Pluto Titec for about 12,000 miles and they were fine. But there was still relief getting off the bike and aniticpation getting on the bike. Those are gone now. Width, length, fore/aft/angle, and contour are all pretty personal things to each rider. I'm fortunate to find mine. Good luck to you.
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Originally Posted by fstshrk
(Post 14075587)
If you do not care about the weight and can find a shop that will let you try saddles, I would also throw in Gilles Berthoud or Brooks leather saddles. If you are on a road bike with a decent drop, then you want their sportier models (e.g. Brooks Team Pro).
For me, I settled on the bontrager inform RL. |
Originally Posted by Mondo734
(Post 14074712)
Its funny out of all the threads about choosing saddles no body ever mentions the ass-o-meter saddle fitting tool that specialized provides. I never used it but in theory it should help you decide what saddle dimensions fit your body.
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the trek/bontrager and specialized butt-o-meters are a good starting point and will get you on the right width of saddle most of the time. if you're right between sizes it will be no help, but otherwise you have at least taken care of one of the variables mr. ratliff pointed out.
finding the right width, though, unfortunately is only a tiny portion of the search. 1. find a good local shop with at least 30 day exchanges and a good inventory of saddles to try. 2. bring your bike with you to the shop if possible. 3. have an infinitely adjustable seat post. a basic seatpost with notches is often inadequate to set the best angle because the rate of change is way too high. you can't make a small tweak, and often a very small tweak is exactly what you need. there are many seatposts that loosen and you set the angle where you want. thomson seatposts have two bolts that pull against each other and a degree marking, which makes it the easiest to use when switching saddles. 4. consider using a level to make small adjustments. it is hard to eyeball changes, especially if you don't have a thomson seatpost, and a small level helps a lot. you won't be able to level different saddle shapes, especially those that kick up in the back, but the bubble doesn't need to be centered. just watch the effect of changes you make. 5. if you don't have good saddle fitness already, every saddle will feel uncomfortable. this one is important for new riders. 6. wear cycling shorts when demoing saddles if you ride with cycling shorts. (and you should be.) |
Can someone PLEASE invent a digital pressure pad that computes what saddle is good for what rider? This is such a ridiculous process that every rider seems to suffer through.
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I look for ones that say Selle San Marco Rolls. (I found out long ago my butt likes them.)
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So I got my new bike today. Came with a Bontrager Affinity 2.
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Originally Posted by WorldIRC
(Post 14079466)
So I got my new bike today. Came with a Bontrager Affinity 2.
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There must be about 2 billion unused stock saddles out there.
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Originally Posted by Machka
(Post 14080775)
So, have you been for a ride on it yet?
I have to go back next week anyways. Shorter stem on order in the Madone 5.2 colour scheme |
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