twodownzero

If he can't afford the $50-100, there are scratched bikes on Bike Island, that are otherwise new, WITHIN HIS BUDGET, that have integrated shifters.

BrioCloud

Guys thanks for the hot debate between which bike I should buy.

The people who recommended me the $350 Avenue C is perfect for me:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...y/avenue_c.htm

I did need help deciding how much "small" cost I should pay to get the best value. And $350 is the best I can do, and since you guys say its a minimum to you. I am down with that.

Honestly, those who say these are Walmart bikes, are taking this to an extreme. I have rode on at least 4 real Walmart bikes, and I feel that they are bsolutely worlds different than these these entry level bikes. I rode on a cheap single speed in a bike shop and I have never felt so good on a bike before.

So to summarize, would you guys agree that the Avenue C that I posted above my best value? As in, there isn't really any more improvements I can get that is beyond what I need? My needs are remember, very little.

Thanks guys for the sensible post about being in budget and answering my questions. It really helps! To some, entry level bikes are bad. To some like me, these entry level bikes are godlike! But does the Avenue C have those "brifters" I don't even know what they are. Also. I kind of like frames that are flat on top. In the Sora section, the Wellington 2.0 Windsor bike has a flat frame. Is that one just as good as Avenue C? And is flat or curved frame just a matter of preference?

Wellington 2.0: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm

pgjackson

The Wellington just looks better.

lostarchitect 

Yes, it's a nicer looking bike to me as well. OP, what do you prefer in terms of looks? I agree the Gravity will be fine for your needs.

RT

As stated in previous threads, have owned and ridden the Liberty 1 and built a Liberty 3 frameset up with ten speed. Don't bother with the Windsor, you will get used to the geometry of the Gravity frame.

The Lib1



The Lib3 build

BrioCloud

Thank you so much with those pictures! I really wanted a proportional reallistic view of how those bent tubes look. And they don't look that bad. I'm just afraid it won't look as "road bike" as the straight ones. =/

It is my first road bike purchase after all.

Biscayne05

I bought a Motobecane Vent Noir as my 1st road bike. I love it.


PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK:

https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...=Bikes:%20Road


I think this is where BikesDirect dumps the returned bikes or the "showroom" bikes. There's deals to be had over there. 2 months after I bought my Vent Noir for 699 I saw my bike @ BikeIsland for 499 (ouch).

pgjackson

I still think the Wellington 2.0 is the best looking in the price range. The Lib III in black is pretty cool also. I assume it's a custom paint job.

OP, whatever you get, get brifters, not DT.

hhnngg1

OP - while I hear you on the saving money front, I and most people will also warn you that the cost of bike accessories as well as basic maintenance, will quickly exceed your $300 budget.

I'm no bike snob either - I'm usually one of the biggest proponents of entry level bikes from the LBS on this forum, and preferentially ride my $650 LBS Giant Defy3 Sora bike over my Cervelo for training. (The Cervelo is a better bike, with dura-ace, but I'm the same speed on both! The Cervelo also costs 4x as much.)

But reality is that after you get: shoes, pedals, helmet, bike shorts, jersey, pump, inner tubes, flat kit, sunglasses, and factor in a nontrivial LBS tuneup in the first year or two, you will be realistically looking at $1000 in expenditures above the cost of the bike. Yes, I fully expect like 5 people to reply to this post and say "Well I did it in <$50 and do all my bike repair myself for FREE" but that's highly unlikely for most. ( Even if you're good with tools, the bike tools alone to do basic maintenance will run $100+ and that's for the basic minimum stuff.)

So you need to honestly ask yourself if you would be ok a year down the road with having spent $1000ish on stuff OTHER than the bike, yet riding a bike that costed 1/3rd that amount.

I know you're on a budget, but I don't think it's realistic at all to expect to be able to not factor in accessory purchases and expect to enjoy riding without the other things I've mentioned above. If anything, bike riding tends to accumulate MORE expenses, so be prepared for that downhill slide toward spending more. (Again, this is coming from someone who is pretty minimalist in bike expenditures.)

RT

I have to leave you on your own then. These frames look a LOT like some of the Giant frames, and this even resembles some recently-posted BMC's with the staggered seat stays. This is not a new concept, just not as 'traditional' as say a Fuji or your Wellington with the flat top tube and shorter head tube.

pgjackson

Yep, it can be an expensive hobby. My first bike was a Fuji Newest 3.0. Got it new for $399. Also got super cheap shoes for $40, $20 helmet, $20 shorts, cheap jerseys...then about three months later I decided to get a "real" bike and bought a $1000 Felt Z85. Then upgraded to $85 shoes, and started buying $75 bibs and more expensive jerseys...Then I got a $1800 CF racer, $130 CF shoes, a $60 helmet...

Point is, if you get into this sport, you will spend a lot of $$$. I predict you will only have your entry-level bike for a short period.

waynesworld

From the description: "MicroShift SB-R08 Triple for 8 speed (24 gears total)
(Integrated bar mounted shifters and brake levers)". So, yes.

waynesworld

Agreed. I think it's actually a great looking bike.

Terry66

Thanks for the pics of the flat black Liberty 3. I have a 53.5cm Liberty 3 frame/fork sitting out in my garage and a full 105 black groupset ready to go on it. I was looking at frames for a bad weather bike and a bike I can let my younger 17yo son ride. Personally I think it looks a lot like the Giant frames. I am probably going to swap out the fork for an Easton. Maybe a set of Soul S4 in black.

RT

This is a 53.5 and I am 6'1". I trusted their sizing chart and rock a 90mm stem. Perfect fit. Going to replace the headset though - cannot adjust the creak out of it.

Terry66

The sizing was a little strange. I read the geometry chart to read that the 53.5 is around a 54-55. It might be a little too big for me as I am 5’11”. Looking at your saddle height, I am thinking it should still be okay. What do you think of the fork that came with it? Any concerns?

RT

No, the fork is fine. Same for came on my Lib1, just no Kinesis label. You don't need to upgrade. I think you will be fine with the sizing, just adjust the stem accordingly.

Tex Bs

I have been riding a Vilano Turano for two seasons now, and love the bike. It was an entry level starter bike for me too, and allowed me to save a bit to spend on all the necessary extras. https://www.roadbikeoutlet.com/vilano...imano-sti.html

blcknspo0ln

I rode the Windsor Wellington 1.0 for 2 years/1500 miles and if anyone tells you that downtube shifters are ok, they're lying to you. With the availability of even crappy Sora shifters, DT shifters shouldn't even be an option anymore. Unless you're building an oldschool racer bike, GET INTEGRATED SHIFTERS. Don't buy a $300 bike and wish for 2 years you had spent the extra $100 like I did (even for the Windsor Wellington 2.0, I would have INSTANTLY forked over the extra $100 within 10minutes of buying my 1.0 - I'm just a victim of my own stupidity and failed to do any research prior to buying).

starving

I am an old fart who raced in 1985. There is absolutely nothing wrong with downtube shifters. Today's index downtube shifters are deluxe compared to the friction shifters of the 1980's.

I actually prefer downtube shifters over Sora shifters because Sora shifters have a spongy feel to them when shifting with the brake lever.

I also like that downtube shifters allow me to shift the entire cassette in one motion instead of several pushes of an integrated shifter.

The only riders who need integrated shifters are racers because it lets them upshift faster during a sprint.

Another reason downtube shifters are fine is the fact that single speed bikes exist. If one gear is good enough for some riders, then 24 gears with downtube shifters is deluxe in comparison.

The only shifters I do not recommend are stem shifters because they can get in your way when you are standing while pedaling.

The cheapest bike I would recommend is the Motobecane Mirage which has downtube shifters.

pgjackson

We don't need HDTVs or even color TVs. We don't need cell phones, or air conditioning or power steering either. But can you imagine life without those things? There is absolutely no reason to buy a NEW bike with DT shifters.

starving

Tell that to riders who love single gear bikes.

Let me improve your analogies......

Comparing downtube shifters to Sora is more analogous to comparing LCD TV's to LED TV's.

Comparing downtube shifters to Sora is more analogous to comparing an Android phone to an I-phone.

Comparing downtube shifters to Sora is more analogous to comparing in-window air conditioners to central air conditioners.

Comparing downtube shifters to Sora is more analogous to comparing Hyundai power steering to BMW power steering.

Downtube shifters are not a hardship for a recreational cyclist. It is not difficult to move your hand from the handlebar to a downtube shifter. Anyone who finds this so difficult probably doesn't bother signaling when driving a car.

I have Sora shifters and I don't really care for them. They have a sloppy mushy feel to them. Downtube shifters are nice and crisp.

Now if Dura Ace STI shifters were the same cost as downtube shifters, I would definitely take the Dura Ace.

RT

This is not true of all integrated levers. I loathe Shimano for this very reason. The throw on the left is too long and the right is spongy. Of course, this all depends on how you finish your cables. The better they are installed, the less spongy they will be.

I am a Microshift fan, and some of those less expensive bikes come with MS. Even MS 8-speed is an upgrade from 9-speed Sora. I ride Ms 9 and 10 speed now and wonder why people are so hung up on brand names.

As for DT shifters, they aren't for everyone, mainly us old farts. I don't like them, but back when I had a paper route in the 70's, they were deluxe. Not anymore.

pgjackson

None of those analogies make any sense. The only reason any manufacturer puts DT shifters on a bike is to make an already cheap bike even cheaper.

starving

Have you tried Sora? It sucks. Downtube shifters are just as good as Sora, if not better. The cheapest road bike with downtube shifters is $300. The cheapest road bike with Microshift is $360. The cheapest road bike with Tiagra is $600.

pgjackson, exactly what kind of shifters do you use?