Upgrading Crankset
#1
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Upgrading Crankset
Hey all. I'm pretty new to cycling and have a few questions as i'm still a noob about the mechanics of the bike. I just purchased my 2nd road bike, a Trek Madone 2.1 with SRAM apex groupset with a compact crank and 11-32 cassette. I plan to race on this bike, so I want to upgrade to a standard SRAM FORCE BB30 2.2 Crankset and the pg-1070 cassette (12-27). Will i also need to purchase an upgraded bottom bracket for the crankset to work with this bike? Also, i think i will need to upgrade the chain but someone correct me if i am wrong.
thanks for the help
thanks for the help
#4
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I havea trek 1.1 right now that i have been riding with a compact and 12-25 8 speed cassette and the low gears are more then enough to get me up hills around here, so i want to stay away from such a large cassette. My friend stated that with compact crank i will likely not have high enough gears in some cases during the collegiate season here.
#7
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
there's no reason to change your crank. Depending on your strength, and the terrrain where you're going to race, you may want to add an 11-23 or 11-26 cassette to your quiver to have tighter spacing.
If you're going to be racing, a far better investment than upgrading the crank, would be a second set of wheels, with a cassette. You need (at least want) spare wheels for the wheel pit, or wheel truck, you don't need a new crank.
So decent set of wheels, with a more closely spaced cassette, and switch out the back wheel/casette as conditions indicate.
If you're going to be racing, a far better investment than upgrading the crank, would be a second set of wheels, with a cassette. You need (at least want) spare wheels for the wheel pit, or wheel truck, you don't need a new crank.
So decent set of wheels, with a more closely spaced cassette, and switch out the back wheel/casette as conditions indicate.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#9
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,234
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
I havea trek 1.1 right now that i have been riding with a compact and 12-25 8 speed cassette and the low gears are more then enough to get me up hills around here, so i want to stay away from such a large cassette. My friend stated that with compact crank i will likely not have high enough gears in some cases during the collegiate season here.
50/11 at 120rpm is 44 mph.
If you're racing in extremely hilly terrain, there may rarely be an occassion on a descent that you'd want more gear. However, even in those situations, it typically doesn't pay to pedal after you hit the low 40's. Instead pedal hard at the top of the descent, spin out, and then tuck. Th energy it takes to accelerate a bike from 44mph to 45 mph is not worth the effort.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#11
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,234
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
FWIW, I race Cat 3 ( which is a bit more competitive than Collegiate D) with a 50/34 and 11-23. I've never ran out of gear with that setup, including descending in Colorado
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#13
I've done a bunch of masters races (also faster than college D) with a 50x12 top gear.
Your friend is wrong about the gearing, and he's an idiot for telling you to buy a whole crank when you only need chainrings.
Your friend is wrong about the gearing, and he's an idiot for telling you to buy a whole crank when you only need chainrings.
#16
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Haunchyville
On the chain, depending on the gearing you end up with you may need to adjust the length, and if you need a longer chain that may mean a new one. But as long as you are staying with 10 speeds there is no need to 'upgrade'.
#17
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From: Hollister, CA
Bikes: Volagi, daVinci Joint Venture
My son races crits and and uses a 52/39 and 13-25 cassette. I suppose he might change the cassette for a road race with high speed descents, but the close spacing is very important.
#18
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: chicago
Bikes: cannondale crit 3.0, specialized allez, old giant mtb/hybrid
What everybody else is saying... Switch out your chain rings. And your cassette, Realistically you dont need to do any of it, and do the cassette first, you probably wont even need a new chain.
A new crank and bb will be several hundred dollars. Cosmetic at most. These upgrades are around 50 bucks.
A new crank and bb will be several hundred dollars. Cosmetic at most. These upgrades are around 50 bucks.
#19
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Geelong, Australia
Bikes: Cannondale Supersix Hi-Mod / Scott Spark 930 / Scott Sportster 20 / Jamis Allegro 2.0
What everybody else is saying... Switch out your chain rings. And your cassette, Realistically you dont need to do any of it, and do the cassette first, you probably wont even need a new chain.
A new crank and bb will be several hundred dollars. Cosmetic at most. These upgrades are around 50 bucks.
A new crank and bb will be several hundred dollars. Cosmetic at most. These upgrades are around 50 bucks.
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