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Casette Issue

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Old 02-08-13 | 04:40 PM
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Casette Issue

For the trainers have a special skewers needed. When talking the rear wheel off, the cogs popped out a little bit. The entire casette came out of the hub. I then pushed the casette back in place and it seemed secure. Now the casette seems louder than usual. Could something have gone wrong?Iif so, I need to know if I should bring it over to the shop? How much will this cost?

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Old 02-08-13 | 04:45 PM
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Loose lockring?
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Old 02-08-13 | 04:47 PM
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If you're talking about a standard cassette setup.....it doesn't just "pop" back on, its held on by a threaded lock ring.
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Old 02-08-13 | 04:47 PM
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Oh dear.. How do I fix it
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Old 02-08-13 | 04:49 PM
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If that's it, tighten it.

https://www.parktool.com/product/cass...ring-tool-fr-5
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Old 02-08-13 | 04:52 PM
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Let me explain a little more. I was fumbling around trying to get the wheel out and the whole casette slid out . When I pushed it against the wheel it just popped back in.
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Old 02-08-13 | 04:56 PM
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What do you mean "slid out"? The cassette is held on the freehub body by a lockring. Quick image grab but the cassette slides over the freehub and then you hold the whole thing on with the lockring. If it cassette came off then the lockring is clearly missing or very loose.



Or do you mean the axel came out of the drops? Maybe you didn't get it in straight.
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Old 02-08-13 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by simonaway427
If you're talking about a standard cassette setup.....it doesn't just "pop" back on, its held on by a threaded lock ring.
Actually some rear hubs (notably Powertaps since the introduction of the 15mm axle) have a drive side axle cap and freehub which can be removed without tools which is nice if you want to switch between Shimano/Campagnolo configurations for different bikes.

You can pop the freehub + cap off and pop it back on.

While you could theoretically introduce a mis-alignment by failing to fully seat the parts, closing the QR skewer should finish the job and put things back to normal.

On a more conventional hub I might suspect a drive-side nut that's not tightened all the way. That would allow cassette movement and make things nosier. Hub misalignment in the drop-outs is also possible.
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Old 02-08-13 | 06:02 PM
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Old 02-08-13 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
Actually some rear hubs (notably Powertaps since the introduction of the 15mm axle) have a drive side axle cap and freehub which can be removed without tools which is nice if you want to switch between Shimano/Campagnolo configurations for different bikes.

You can pop the freehub + cap off and pop it back on.
Really ? I have a Campy PT and a Shimano PT. I don't know if they are 15mm.
If so, I can swap them?
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Old 02-08-13 | 07:20 PM
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I am guessing your freehub body slid off of the pawls. Why it is making more noise now is anyones guess. I would recommend you take it to a shop just to make sure everything is ok.
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Old 02-08-13 | 08:11 PM
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[QUOTE=garysol1;15253086]I am guessing your freehub body slid off of the pawls. Why it is making more noise now is anyones guess. I would recommend you take it to a shop just to make sure everything is ok.

All those sprockets slid right out of the wheel. Still in one piece, just not in the wheel. Then I managed to click them back in. Then just put the new wheel on. Definitely shouldn't ride it like that right.
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Old 02-08-13 | 08:13 PM
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Right. If all the sprockets came off as one unit then it was the freehub body that slid off. Typically something should have been holding it to the wheel assembly. It wont take a shop but a minute to take a look at it.

[QUOTE=nickmarchese;15253259]
Originally Posted by garysol1
I am guessing your freehub body slid off of the pawls. Why it is making more noise now is anyones guess. I would recommend you take it to a shop just to make sure everything is ok.

All those sprockets slid right out of the wheel. Still in one piece, just not in the wheel. Then I managed to click them back in. Then just put the new wheel on. Definitely shouldn't ride it like that right.
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Old 02-08-13 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorden Gekko

wow. This answers my question
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Old 02-09-13 | 11:35 AM
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I don't think I have a traditional "lock ring" it is round, not like a bolt. I also posted a pic of it detached from the hub
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Old 02-09-13 | 11:37 AM
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Your freehub body slid off of the wheel.
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Old 02-09-13 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by YOJiMBO20
Your freehub body slid off of the wheel.

Did I fix it? I pushed it back and it clicked back in.
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Old 02-09-13 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Really ? I have a Campy PT and a Shimano PT. I don't know if they are 15mm.
If so, I can swap them?
Yup.

- Remove the freehub with a sharp tug. An internal O-ring is used to maintain friction with the
axle.
-Remove all old grease from the freehub ratchet ring.
-Make sure the black steel spacer remains on the axle.
-Clean the end cap and lightly grease the seal contact area.
-Apply 2 grams of approved grease.
-Grease the V seal and place it on the freehub. Note the open “cup” of the seal faces out.
-Install the new freehub over the shaft and re-use the end cap.
-The end cap will snap into the correct position. No tensioning adjustment is required.
-Shimano and Capagnolo freehubs can be interchanged with no changes to spacers or other
components.
35
The transition (on new hubs and rebuilds) happened in 2009-2010.

Visually the 12mm drive side axle end cap has a slot for a 17mm cone wrench where it meets the serrated steel washer for drop-out grip and the 15mm does not.
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Old 02-09-13 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nickmarchese
I don't think I have a traditional "lock ring" it is round, not like a bolt. I also posted a pic of it detached from the hub
Looks like a broken axle.

Although some freehubs separate without tools, you'd still have an axle running all the way through the hub + freehub without a split that could flex in the middle.
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Old 02-09-13 | 07:04 PM
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The axle is there. If I remove the freehub body completely the axle is still running through the wheel.meverything is in correct order. However I am unsure as to whether the bike is rideable.
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Old 02-09-13 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nickmarchese
The axle is there. If I remove the freehub body completely the axle is still running through the wheel.meverything is in correct order. However I am unsure as to whether the bike is rideable.
Could be that the machine screw holding the freehub body to the axle has come loose or broken
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Old 02-09-13 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pdedes
Could be that the machine screw holding the freehub body to the axle has come loose or broken
What's a machine screw. Could I have really done such extensive damage removing the rear wheel? I mean, these things sound like the results of catastrophic accidents. Is it possible my freehub body can be easily removed and clicked back into place? It's a bontrager rl 2012 wheel.

Last edited by nickmarchese; 02-09-13 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 02-09-13 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nickmarchese
What's a machine screw. Could I have really done such extensive damage removing the rear wheel? I mean, these things sound like the results of catastrophic accidents. Is it possible my freehub body can be easily removed and clicked back into place? It's a bontrager rl 2012 wheel.

You likely overtightened the trainer onto your rear wheel and broke the freehub retention screw
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Old 02-09-13 | 08:23 PM
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And how bad is this.
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Old 02-09-13 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nickmarchese
And how bad is this.
If the retention screw is off, it needs replacing. If the screw head is broken, you'll need a screw-out tool to remove the threaded shaft of the screw, or replace the axle. If this is gibberish to you, take it to a shop, don't ride it.
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