Fork Rake 43 vs 45
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
Bikes: A2b Metro, Eneloop, Alley Way, Haul 2
Fork Rake 43 vs 45
I bought a Helix, the Lynskey geometry says the frame was designed for the 43 rake fork, I have a 45 rake Enve laying around, will the 2mm rake difference totally change the ride feel?
Last edited by coolmingli; 04-12-13 at 10:11 PM.
#2
You Know!? For Kids!



Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,166
Likes: 29
From: Just NW of Richardson Bike Mart
Bikes: '05 Trek 1200 / '90 Trek 8000 / '? Falcon Europa
This might help you make an informed guess. https://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2011/0...bike-handling/
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
#5
It won't make a big difference but it will reduce trail and contribute to quicker steering.
Trail is often misunderstood...especially in the context of fork rake...or at least easily confused. See pic below. Visualize the difference of increasing the fork rake i.e. moving the axle center forward which reduces the distance at the pavement where the lines you see intersect with the road...which by definition is trail. Less trail = quicker handling. Trail is basically castor...like on a shopping cart wheel or an automobile. When you turn the wheel, you are physically lifting the bike by the lever of trail...and this lever is the self centering ingredient of steering...or resistance to turning is another way to consider it. So if you reduce this lever length, then the front bike wheel will be less resistant to turning aka turn more easily.
So if you believe your handling is a touch on the twitchy side...don't make this change. If you believe your bike handling can tolerate a slightly quicker turn in, you should be OK with increasing fork rake slightly.
HTH.
Trail is often misunderstood...especially in the context of fork rake...or at least easily confused. See pic below. Visualize the difference of increasing the fork rake i.e. moving the axle center forward which reduces the distance at the pavement where the lines you see intersect with the road...which by definition is trail. Less trail = quicker handling. Trail is basically castor...like on a shopping cart wheel or an automobile. When you turn the wheel, you are physically lifting the bike by the lever of trail...and this lever is the self centering ingredient of steering...or resistance to turning is another way to consider it. So if you reduce this lever length, then the front bike wheel will be less resistant to turning aka turn more easily.
So if you believe your handling is a touch on the twitchy side...don't make this change. If you believe your bike handling can tolerate a slightly quicker turn in, you should be OK with increasing fork rake slightly.
HTH.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
It won't make a big difference but it will reduce trail and contribute to quicker steering.
Trail is often misunderstood...especially in the context of fork rake...or at least easily confused. See pic below. Visualize the difference of increasing the fork rake i.e. moving the axle center forward which reduces the distance at the pavement where the lines you see intersect with the road...which by definition is trail. Less trail = quicker handling. Trail is basically castor...like on a shopping cart wheel or an automobile. When you turn the wheel, you are physically lifting the bike by the lever of trail...and this lever is the self centering ingredient of steering...or resistance to turning is another way to consider it. So if you reduce this lever length, then the front bike wheel will be less resistant to turning aka turn more easily.
So if you believe your handling is a touch on the twitchy side...don't make this change. If you believe your bike handling can tolerate a slightly quicker turn in, you should be OK with increasing fork rake slightly.
HTH.
Trail is often misunderstood...especially in the context of fork rake...or at least easily confused. See pic below. Visualize the difference of increasing the fork rake i.e. moving the axle center forward which reduces the distance at the pavement where the lines you see intersect with the road...which by definition is trail. Less trail = quicker handling. Trail is basically castor...like on a shopping cart wheel or an automobile. When you turn the wheel, you are physically lifting the bike by the lever of trail...and this lever is the self centering ingredient of steering...or resistance to turning is another way to consider it. So if you reduce this lever length, then the front bike wheel will be less resistant to turning aka turn more easily.
So if you believe your handling is a touch on the twitchy side...don't make this change. If you believe your bike handling can tolerate a slightly quicker turn in, you should be OK with increasing fork rake slightly.
HTH.
Robert
#8
Yeah...trail is basically the concept of castor and a prevalent component of steering...referred to in automotive engineering as returnability also contributing to tracking and on center feel. If you thinking about the arc of a front wheel axle which doesn't share the same axis with the head tube angle and contact patch, as the axle turns, the physical weight of the bike is lifted. It is this weight that contributes to the steadiness for on center tracking. Lack of it of course is the opposite and contributes to more 'nervous' steering.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
Bikes: A2b Metro, Eneloop, Alley Way, Haul 2
Thanks guys for the replies, I wouldn't know rather my bike will be stable or twitchy because I never had a 43 rake fork, I have nothing to compare to, I will put my 45 rake fork on to the bike for now, just to see how it goes.
#11
Are you speaking of drag motorcyles? Don't know of any drag bicycles per se.
As to drag motorcycles, no...they are not nimble. Steering is deliberately slowed not only by increased trail but by lengthened wheelbase.
If they weren't, there would be lot more crashes.
As to drag motorcycles, no...they are not nimble. Steering is deliberately slowed not only by increased trail but by lengthened wheelbase.
If they weren't, there would be lot more crashes.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 1
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Bikes: 99 Klein Quantum, 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 5, Specialized Tarmac Comp, Foundry Thresher, Fuji Sportif
Bingo.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: See sig.
I've had everything between 40 and 48 on my current bike which came with 43. 48 was noticably faster but really no functional difference. I bet 43 to 45 would be hard to notice without back to back comparisons.
#15
I do agree however the change would be manageable as ivan stated. One thing about steering is...I wrote to Sheldon Brown about stem length before his unfortunate passing....he said there is a pretty wide spectrum of handling from tandems to upright angle road bikes and we quickly adjust to these differences. I agree.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
daven1986
Bicycle Mechanics
8
09-10-10 08:13 PM







