wheel selection
05-29-13, 07:55 PM
#1
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wheel selection
I want to upgrade my wheels from the factory wheels my 08 Tarmac came with Mavric 2.2? Their heavy, I would like to upgrade to a lighter, but yet durable wheel set. I really would like carbon wheels but I am not sure if those are in my budget. What do you guys think are great wheels.
05-29-13, 08:00 PM
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Search wheels on this forum. there are only 50 threads in the last 2 weeks about this.
Lets see...
Psimet
Easton
Hed
Zipp
Someother dude that make wheels
Lets see...
Psimet
Easton
Hed
Zipp
Someother dude that make wheels
05-30-13, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by canam73
Knowing your budget, weight, typical riding habits and road conditions makes it much easier to answer.
05-30-13, 08:09 AM
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Okay well I wouldn't like to spend more then 1100-1300 dollars. I ride Michigan roads which can be rough. I'm 150 pounds. I like to ride long distance rides on the weekends up to 100 miles on the weekdays I do short 20-30 mile rides for speed try to ride 150 miles a week when the weather permits
05-30-13, 08:27 AM
#6
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Nothing you are describing sounds too demanding. I live in WI and also have to deal with pot holes and frost heave cracks and find the wider rims and lower psi work well for that. You could get into carbon for that budget, although I don't know that you need to.
Take a look at the offerings at https://www.boydcycling.com/ and https://www.novemberbicycles.com/.
I would start with the Boyd Vitesse (aluminum) as it offers a lot for the money. Both companies are nice in that they offer some options on each build.
Take a look at the offerings at https://www.boydcycling.com/ and https://www.novemberbicycles.com/.
I would start with the Boyd Vitesse (aluminum) as it offers a lot for the money. Both companies are nice in that they offer some options on each build.
Last edited by canam73; 05-30-13 at 09:05 AM.
05-30-13, 08:47 AM
#7
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You basically have a choice going in -- hand built for you, or a wheel model.
Both have advantages. Hand built allows a lot of variability in rims, spokes, hubs, nipples. And if you were heavier they could potentially be better and more reliable.
Models can be cross-shopped, and might be something that you prefer.
Both have advantages. Hand built allows a lot of variability in rims, spokes, hubs, nipples. And if you were heavier they could potentially be better and more reliable.
Models can be cross-shopped, and might be something that you prefer.
05-30-13, 09:38 AM
#8
Keep on climbing
Originally Posted by onehandman
Okay well I wouldn't like to spend more then 1100-1300 dollars. I ride Michigan roads which can be rough. I'm 150 pounds. I like to ride long distance rides on the weekends up to 100 miles on the weekdays I do short 20-30 mile rides for speed try to ride 150 miles a week when the weather permits
So what are you looking for in new wheels? If it's to go faster, it's not going to happen, at least not by any appreciable amount (assuming you're not racing and losing by a bike length).
If you want the most durable wheels you can buy, the best thing to do is get a good set of hand-built wheels (IMHO). And don't discount how light hand-built wheels can be.
I have a pair of hand-built 32-spoke wheels built up with Campy Chorus hubs that are lighter than most boutique "low spoke count" wheels out there, were cheaper to buy, and after 30k miles, still haven't seen a spoke wrench. They might not be the sexiest looking wheels around, but then again -- I've never been sidelined waiting for my wheels to be fixed either.
05-30-13, 11:00 AM
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Maybe I really don't need a carbon wheel. Just like the thought of them lol. I know the dishing makes a different on aero dynamics but also know you do not want too deep for the side winds I currently do not have any dishing. My wheels are durable but heavy. What is the difference between clincher wheels and tubular wheels? I have noticed my fee hub and hub have started making noises I do not care for so it is giving me an excuse to start Looking 
05-30-13, 12:53 PM
#10
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Tubulars: https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_tp-z.html (scroll down) Note, you have clinchers right now.
05-30-13, 12:57 PM
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Don't get tubulars, more trouble than they are worth.
Don't call the deep section "dish" because dish refers to the offset of the rear wheel to compensate for the cassette.
I would get some high quality aluminum clinchers. Consider Williams 30's.
Don't forget good rubber, suggest continental grand prix 4000s.
Don't call the deep section "dish" because dish refers to the offset of the rear wheel to compensate for the cassette.
I would get some high quality aluminum clinchers. Consider Williams 30's.
Don't forget good rubber, suggest continental grand prix 4000s.
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05-31-13, 06:43 PM
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Get some Hed Ardennes (sp) and put some Continental $seasons on and be done with it
05-31-13, 06:49 PM
#13
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save some bucks and get Shimano DA-9000-24 clinchers or even the tubeless version...
...prepare for several hundred different recommendations...
...prepare for several hundred different recommendations...
05-31-13, 06:57 PM
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Can't forget November Rail right in that budget. Or Zipp 101.
06-01-13, 10:05 AM
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I'd also consider neuvation wheels:
https://www.neuvationcycling.com/
I have over 5K on my M28's and they're going strong. I also have about 1K on their R28's and have my eyes on their C45's. Your current wheels are about 2100gms. Any of neuvation's offerings will shave off your rotational weight.
https://www.neuvationcycling.com/
I have over 5K on my M28's and they're going strong. I also have about 1K on their R28's and have my eyes on their C45's. Your current wheels are about 2100gms. Any of neuvation's offerings will shave off your rotational weight.
