Greetings-

Got a 2013 Trek Crossrip E-Leet--for use as a curb jumper, pothole crasher, and easy trail rider. The more I ride it the more I like it.

However, I don't like the big jumps when shifting chainrings. It's not like I can't handle the hills with the 34t ring (goodness! the big cog is 32t...) But it seems like more even shifting in hilly terrain and in traffic would be worth a few extra ounces.

The XRip is equipped with new paddle-shifting, 9sp Sora. Curiously, Shimano does not list the weights of their cranks, even though they show it as a category.

And it's not clear from the Shimano site whether they only offer one left hand shifter, no matter whether it's a double or triple crank.

So, should I go down this road or not? is it one of the rabbit holes you dive into where at the bottom of the hole, you wind up with new everything from shifters to crank to cassette (or worse--a new bike!!!) or is it an easy and worthwhile swap out? What are other unintended consequences?

Can anyone educate me on this subject?

I use both a compact double and a triple. IMO the only reason to go with a triple is if you really need lower gearing -- e.g. touring and ultracycling (100+ mile) events.

With a compact, the trick is to shift the front and back together. E.g. when I shift from the little ring to the big ring, I also shift the cassette down 2 gears. It quickly becomes a habit.

With a triple, the gaps aren't as wide but are still there. I don't think you'll get any real advantage, unless you want to get much lower gears.

And yes, you'll have to swap out lots of parts -- bottom bracket spindle, crankset, possibly the front derailleur.

I say the best thing is to adjust your technique. It won't take long to get used to it.

Agree with all the points. I have two bikes with the usual road triples (30, 42, 52) and two with 34-50 compact doubles. There are pros and cons comparing them, but overall I prefer the compact double.

I'll disagree. A 40/42 middle ring is perfect for hills around here, so much better than bunny hop shifting around a 34 chainring. The 28/30 is a bail out or uber hill ring. It simply works, especially with a narrow range cog on the back.

I've converted a double to triple without much drama, but the spindle, FD/shifter was spaced to handle a triple. New RD and chain besides the crank, that was about it. It's very possible you are going to have to replace most of the drivetrain and L-shifter. Did the 2013 Trek Crossrip E-Leet come as a triple? If so, what components changed the configuration? Visit a Trek dealer.

Simpler, just dump the compact for a regular double. Maybe change the rear to a 26 max cassette. Just get rid of those wide-range gears, you're done.

I would swap the chainrings for a 36-46.

I have a 9 speed Tiagra triple on my Jamis Aurora (2009) and 10 speed Ultegra Compact Double on my Roubaix (2012). I hate the 50/34 chainring combination. Can't get in the right gear. The middle ring on my Jamis is a 42 and is perfect. I am guessing, I would be a lot happier with the cyclocross 46/36 combo (as suggested by Jiggle above). If I need to, I can always put the 12-30 cassette in the back.

You asked about parts, so here is the list:

Left shifter, if you can find it sold as a single. Would most likely need the pair.
Crank.
Maybe BB. If current crank is JIS taper, then definitely BB. If Hollowtech, then you are OK. If switching crank manufacturer, then most likely yes.
Front derailleur.
Maybe rear derailleur. If currently short cage, you will need at least a mid-cage for chain take up.
Chain should be fine, unless you go to bigger big ring on the new triple crank.
Maybe cables and maybe tape. Totally dependant on you skills in getting them off and back on. I typically plan to replace both.

Other than that, you should be fine.

As another opinion, if you have no problem with hills, don't screw with your crank, and just swap in a 12-21 or 12-23 cassette. You will have essentially no gear overlap, and tight gear spacing.

+1. A 50/34 double is like a triple without the most-useful ring. I tried one once and hated it.

Sounds like the OP needs the wide range of a triple (nothing wrong with that), and would be much happier with that setup. Once he had a triple installed, he could probably use a slightly-tighter cassette for even nicer shifting.

here's an interesting aside from Jan Heine, suggesting that a double FD might work ok on a triple:

Ford Kanzler says:
April 1, 2013 at 9:10 am
How well does a double front derailler, like the Shimano CX-70 recommended in your post, move the chain across a triple crankset, as recommended. Don’t triple front deraillers usually have a somewhat longer reach that doubles?

• Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly says:
  April 1, 2013 at 10:08 am
  We’ve tested this, and the double front derailleurs have no problems shifting over a triples.
  
  

uh-oh...speaking of triples...just bid on a LeMond Zurich, to see if any other bidders were serious...AND NO ONE ELSE IS BIDDING AGAINST ME!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/390691017599...84.m1431.l2648

Got some very specific advice from Brys at FSA...so shouting out for this company, for their customer support:

"The least expensive route is to simply get a set of 46/36t FSA chain rings. And swap out the 50/34t chain rings.
After that the sky limit since all crank models above the Vero com with a bb. Personally you can’t go wrong with the FSA Energy crankset. It comes in a 46/36t version and make sure it is the Mega Exo bb version. It’s light, durable and a great cyclo-cross crank."

Brys adds that the Energy crank needs a different BB:

FSA-BB6000

I guess I'm glad I didn't get it. A cherry 2006 Giant OCR C3 hit Craigslist: $650 with a set of lights and under-saddle pouch.

Only wimp would ride a triple with anything other than 42-53-65 rings... HTFU!

LOL...but I can think of some other ways of defining wimpdom, like riding anything with more than two wheels. Or riding anything with two wheels that does not have pedals.

Try a 36 tooth

Nooooooo! Never go triple after double!!!!!

The one thing that people rarely mention when considering triples is that you can swap out the standard middle and top ring, which changes the argument of "a compact crank can cover 90% of the range of a triple."

The best gearing I've ever had was a 52x39x24*12-23. You basically get to ride a double crank with super tight spacing, but for the few times you need it, you have the easy gears to fall back on.

(You have to be slightly careful when buying a crank, there's a few newer models like the newer tiagara triples that use a strange BCD for the small ring and it's pretty much impossible to find anything but a 30T)

I have a 52/42/30 on my commuter (it's an ultegra 4500 triple). But unlike you (12-23), I ride an 11-34. A lot more hills around here than ON.

" +1. A 50/34 double is like a triple without the most-useful ring. I tried one once and hated it. " Quite right there. It seems the front derailleur must get a lot less use on a compact? I really love having my 42 back again after 20 years on a 39. I am not so concerned about weight and like my 53 - 42 - 30 Campy triple.

In the interest of closure, here are some observations:

1. I took to heart the suggestion to learn to operate both shifters simultaneously. I like the idea of working with what you have--and also learning new skillset. Hopefully another way to stave off Alzheimer's a little longer.

2. Even so, I like the idea of going to a 36/46 ratio. However, it appears as though the FSA and Sora cassette arrangement requires the rings to be synchronized, so the ramps and pins are properly oriented. Maybe I'm wrong about that. Nevertheless, I can't seem to find a synchronized set for sale anywhere. Any suggestions or enlightenment would be greatly appreciated--

-The Geeze

PS--after writing the original post, I acquired a Giant OCR-C3, with a classic triple and Ultegra FD...and have been flirting with the idea of changing it to a compact. Go Figger...

Still LOL...but after returning from a trip down town, where single speeds abound, one could also say, a wimp is anyone who rides with a derailleur--or for that matter, a brake--

-Geeze

Touche... I wonder how many of them can ride more than 10 miles on a fixie.

Either way, when have you seen a man with three testies? All you need is a pair!

Lance road with a double. So that means I can ride with a triple.

I have doubles, compacts and triples on my bikes, and I generally prefer the triples. I like the smaller jumps that a triple offers. Some of it ends up being a little bit of overlap, but for me it works better. The extra weight is hardly a factor. I don't ride the Tour nor do I compete for the top Cat 1 spots, so whatever weight difference there is could just as easily be lost from my body (and cheaper too).

That being said, I don't think it's worth it to change on your bike. If you want a triple, just calculate how much changing over from a compact to a triple will cost and apply that to getting a new bike. You can't ever have too many bikes.

Why I enjoy triples:
Big ring = Downhills, flats, drafting behind others, etc.
Middle ring = Legs tired, doing rollers, going uphill, etc.
Small ring = Legs are cooked,doing some serious climbing, riding with the wife and kids and don't want to leave them in the dust, etc.