Is there a way to repair Shimano cleat rubber knobs?
#1
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Is there a way to repair Shimano cleat rubber knobs?
I know I might seem like a tightwad, but it's a bit annoying having to throw away the cleats just because the rubber bits have come off or worn down, when the cleat is otherwise functioning properly
I've tried Superglue, but it only lasted a few days.
What about Silastic or Shoe Goo?
Thank you
I've tried Superglue, but it only lasted a few days.
What about Silastic or Shoe Goo?
Thank you
Last edited by Disco Stu; 02-05-14 at 12:02 AM.
#2
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Unfortunetly, the answer is no. And for good reason, wanting to glue or what not of the cleats is dangerous. If you shop around you can get a good deal on SPD-SL cleats.
Take a look here. https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Shim...FZDm7AodxnUAqA
Take a look here. https://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Shim...FZDm7AodxnUAqA
#6
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From: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL3, Lynskey Cooper CX
Do both of your cleats wear evenly? Mine don't. I get about 3x the miles out of my left than my right cleat. So I only change one cleat at a time. Way cheaper than throwing away a perfectly good left cleat when only the right needs replacing. I'd suggest you do that instead of trying to "repair" your consumables.
#7
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Shoe-Goo works pretty well. I generally get a week or so worth of time (5-7 rides) before it rubs off. Make sure to clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let dry before applying. It's also better to use thin layers and build it up. Let each layer dry an hour or so and then let the whole thing dry overnight. If you just gob on the Goo in one go it will pop off the first time you push off from the pavement. I like to start the process after a few dozen rides, when the yellow sections are a little scuffed they hold onto the Shoe-Goo better than when they're new. Just make sure to clean them well.
Despite what the tech doc says, when the yellow areas are worn down the cleat is not necessarily worn out. It's more important to look at the section between the two yellow footies and make sure it's the proper thickeness as well as the contact face and make sure the divot created by the twisting motion is not too deep and allowing excessive rotation.
This is the area you really want to be concerned with:
https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/i...leat_ledge.jpg
I generally get about 7k-9k miles out of my cleats but I occasionally do a lot of walking that creates more wear than the average road rider would encounter, I think.
Despite what the tech doc says, when the yellow areas are worn down the cleat is not necessarily worn out. It's more important to look at the section between the two yellow footies and make sure it's the proper thickeness as well as the contact face and make sure the divot created by the twisting motion is not too deep and allowing excessive rotation.
This is the area you really want to be concerned with:
https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/i...leat_ledge.jpg
I generally get about 7k-9k miles out of my cleats but I occasionally do a lot of walking that creates more wear than the average road rider would encounter, I think.
#8
+1 on Shoe Goo for building back up the rear yellow bits. I just keep putting it on again after it falls off. As far as I can tell, the only function the "pontoons" have is to keep the actual part of the cleats that come in contact with the pedal from being damaged by contact with the ground when you're walking around. So building them back up with Shoe Goo shouldn't hamper the cleat functionality.
#9
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Joined: Aug 2013
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There are epoxies that would be a lot more appropriate than Shoe Goo for something like this. For the amount of time involved to repair something like this (correctly), and what I value my time at, I'd rather just buy a new pair and ride more
#10
Still can't climb
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Limey in Taiwan
nonsense. the rubber bits don't lock into anything. they are for walking on.
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
No @coasting, you should stay 100% as you are right now, don't change a thing....quote Heathpack
#12
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Bikes: 2023 Canyon Aeoroad CF SL, 2015 Trek Emonda SLR, 2002 Litespeed Classic, 2005 Bianchi Pista, Some BikesDirect MTB I never ride.
#13
The more you walk on them without the rubber bits, the faster the cleat will wear, so be forewarned.
If you're really that worried about them, perhaps try some plastidip:
https://www.plastidip.com/
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