H Plus Son Archetype
03-20-14, 03:57 PM
#177
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There's an interesting phenomenon where taking the average of a choice by a large population tends to result in a very near optimal solution. In this case that would suggest a tubular, about 60mm rim is probably optimal
And no, you won't see the draft data in a study, it's extremely difficult to do and only tells people what they already know.
03-20-14, 04:02 PM
#178
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03-20-14, 06:29 PM
#181
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The argument is always that you lose three inches at the beginning of the acceleration but regain that and more in aero. The thing people always miss is that being the inches further back in the draft is way more difference than the difference between wheels.
There's an interesting phenomenon where taking the average of a choice by a large population tends to result in a very near optimal solution. In this case that would suggest a tubular, about 60mm rim is probably optimal
And no, you won't see the draft data in a study, it's extremely difficult to do and only tells people what they already know.
There's an interesting phenomenon where taking the average of a choice by a large population tends to result in a very near optimal solution. In this case that would suggest a tubular, about 60mm rim is probably optimal
And no, you won't see the draft data in a study, it's extremely difficult to do and only tells people what they already know.
And once again, if somebody has the money to burn on this stuff and wants to ride 1400g 60mm carbon tubulars on a MUP I really have no issue with it. I'm happy for them.
But when somebody is going advocate that wheel weight is always "extremely important" on a regular road bike forum for somebody buying everyday wheels I am going to call them on it and ask them to prove it. With in the realm of typical modern road bike wheel weights the available data just doesn't support it. I believe there are much more important criteria to make decisions off of then a couple hundred grams.
03-20-14, 06:44 PM
#182
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If you're not racing the only reason to buy wheels with any carbon on them is because they look sexy, in which case i don't understand why anyone would waste their time arguing about performance. Since there's been a whole lot of argument about performance in this thread, it flows logically that racing is the topic under discussion.
03-20-14, 07:23 PM
#183
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If you're not racing the only reason to buy wheels with any carbon on them is because they look sexy, in which case i don't understand why anyone would waste their time arguing about performance. Since there's been a whole lot of argument about performance in this thread, it flows logically that racing is the topic under discussion.
03-20-14, 07:44 PM
#184
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07-05-14, 09:21 PM
#187
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This question is for anyone who's owned a set of H Plus Son Archetypes. How do the polished wheels finish hold up? In order to keep them looming like mirrors, do you ha e to polish them from time to time? I'm having a set built and am trying to decide on either polished or black. I'm just not digging the braking surface on the black and how they will look like poo over time.
07-06-14, 05:30 AM
#188
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I think that I can stand with a foot in each camp because I think that the differences that we're feeling have more to do with centrifugal forces than linear acceleration. I know that when I'm really trying to jump, my bike gets lashed back and forth pretty good, leaning from one side to the other in quick succession. I also know from my extensive wheel building (4 wheels - woooo!) that if I spin a wheel while holding on to the axles, those sum*****es act like gyroscopes and don't take too kindly to changes in orientation. My theory is that heavier rims are more resistant to changes in orientation than lighter rim and that's the difference we're feeling when really jumping on a hard effort - we're feeling that the bike wants to stand upright and that it takes more effort be leaned over, which translates to feeling sluggish.
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dkyser
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
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04-19-14 09:23 PM
