scott967

Also agree the SRAM instructions kind of "suck". But I think the drawings in the latest version aren't too bad. The problem is that Force 22 cranks now have a longer spindle, intended to allow the cranks to be work in either a standard 68mm shell, or a "BBRight" Cervelo shell. On the Force 22 ONLY, if you use it on a 68mm shell you need a spacer, since BBRight is wider. I just installed a Red 22 crank on a bog-standard PF30 shell and it was simple. Install the crank with no spacers or other doo-dads. On the NDS with the "pre-load adjuster" it comes in the box screwed "out" (towards the NDS crank). There's a hole in one of the "lugs" that you can stick a 2.5 hex into, so you don't have to get your fat fingers in there to turn the adjuster. I just tighten the adjuster towards the BB bearing until it makes contact. (I have a WM angled contact bearing BB and they say to use "more preload than typical" because it's angled, but I have no idea how to determine that.) So I added preload (by tightening/screwing the adjuster towards the center of the BB) until it felt "right" (by my calibrated fingers). It seems to work OK AFAICT (I have about 500 miles on it +/-). Nothing is rattling around. ISTM that with a Force 22, you need the spacer, but again the adjuster should push against the bearing and hold the spindle in place axially. If you have one of the SRAM cranks that doesn't have the adjuster, then you need to add spacers as required to get the right compression of the wavy washer when torqued to spec.

All this is WRT SRAM BB30 cranks. I have no experience with GXP so can't comment on that.

scott s.
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ehdeeboi

Just wanted to give kudos to those who participated on this thread, I was able to remove and put together my crank without issues. I was chasing this annoying tick that went away after I lubed everything. I hope it doesn't come back.

Regarding the preload, the instructions I found online is to tighten it against the NDS crank first then tighten it against the BB after you have installed the Drive side.

One other note that I'd like to bring up in case it wasn't mentioned here,when you loosen the Drive side it starts to become "tight" again after you initially break it free using the 10mm Allen key. I was a bit nervous at first but it eventually came out.

rpenmanparker 

That is standard behavior for a self-extracting bolt.

NPBL

For what it is worth, the SRAM Red Chainsets that I have had all had the pre-loader (as supplied) on the other way to the OP....

I have a 2012 Sram Red Quarq. For both PF30 and PF30A, the 15 mm spacer is always used (according to SRAM). I am switching this chainset from a 2012 Supersix Evo (Hi-Mod) to a 2016 Supersix Evo (Hi-Mod). In my situation, I have to remove the spacer (NDS, behind the pre-load tensioner) as the BB width is now 73 mm and not 68 mm.

As has been said, all that is really required is for the right amount of spacers, ideally, I would have thought, behind the pre-loader (as this is how SRAM supply it). Adjusting the pre-load is then a matter of feel: just enough to not be loose but not enough to add any unnecessary friction.

scott967

Red Quarq <> Red (in particular the S975 model). Though maybe things are different now with DZero?

scott s.
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NPBL

The way the OP has the pre-load tensioner (wrong way) is not guaranteed to achieve a pre-load. The movable ring will move towards the spacer (outwards) with no certainty that any pressure is exerted inwards (on to the bearing), e.g. if it is tight on the shaft.

gurk700

Just popping in hear to thank you guys, especially Dave QB. I lost sleep over this one with a brand new SRAM Red / Quarq crank and next day I decided to screw preload adjuster toward the spacer and not the BB. Then added spacers on the other side as necessary. Seemed to do the trick and this thread confirms I reached the correct solution.

Here's a mind bender though. What do I do with my BBRight frame if I wanna use my crank on it? Can I remove the preload adjuster all together (cause there's not enough room on the drive side if I use it with preload adjuster.

gurk700

Oh!!! I think I found my answer:

Justin.O

Thanks everyonefor contributing to this thread. I've got a specialised stumpjumper with the preload adjuster.
For the last 3 months despite having adjusted the grey plastic preload ring, I still felt a clunking through my feet when pedalling.
It wasn't until 2 days ago I decided to tighten the crank bolt up to full torque, when it finally was remedied. I say remedied because I want to give it a few miles before I'm convinced that did the trick. So if it helps anyone, check your crank bolt is correctly tightened aswell as the preload adjuster.

Question. I'd like to remove my crank and clean it thoroughly and re grease etc, without removing the Pf30. Just the crank spindle. Is it a case of just removiny the crank bolt?
I have what I think is a self extracting cap.

Campag4life

Justin,
You need to provide more information...pics, crank mfr/model/yr etc. They each are similar but a bit different. Generally for each crank type available, one can find a youtube video how to install/remove.

trailflow1

Yes. Loosen the self extracting bolt (the bolt always stay in the crank arm, it doesn't come out of the crank arm), then when the other crank arm comes off, then pull the spindle out.

Justin.O

Thank you. Trail flow. Cheers campag4life will post pics, and more info. Apologies if you see a repeat thread. I'm using tablet and thought I'd lost original post I wrote

Edsel00

I am installing a Force 22 set on a CAAD 10 (with BB30). The only way I could get the crankset centered was to use the big provided spacer that says in the installation manual isn't for the Force or Red on a BB30 bottom bracket.

But without it, the crank was way off center over to the non-drive side. With the large spacer on the crank-side, it is centered perfectly.

Now, granted, I have not installed the rest of the groupset, so I haven't actually ridden it yet (!). But ... is there any reason that it shouldn't work fine with Force 22 with the large spacer, if that centers the crank? Maybe this sounds like a silly question. Obviously, bikes work when they work, and don't when they don't. But wondering if anyone else is using Force 22 with the large spacer provided. Thanks!

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