thoughts on power (newbie)
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OP:
What exactly do you mean by "cruise speed?" Do you mean the speed you can maintain for 5 minutes? 20 minutes? An hour?
What exactly do you mean by "cruise speed?" Do you mean the speed you can maintain for 5 minutes? 20 minutes? An hour?
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Yea, at 5'5" if you way 170 you are either carrying excess fat or are pretty dang massive (muscle wise) for your size. That's like 5'10" 200 or 6'2" 230. Anybody that is legitimately lean at those weights has a TON of muscle.
I'm a stockier build than your typical distance runner look (but definitely not close to anything someone would mistake for big) and at race lean I am around 135-140 and 3 inches taller than you.
Moral: 170 lbs isn't going to be lean at all for you unless you are absolutely exploding with muscle.
I'm a stockier build than your typical distance runner look (but definitely not close to anything someone would mistake for big) and at race lean I am around 135-140 and 3 inches taller than you.
Moral: 170 lbs isn't going to be lean at all for you unless you are absolutely exploding with muscle.
speed that I can maintain for at least an hour.
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Good. Cyclists who train with power refer to that as their functional threshold power. I had good 1' and 5' power but I wasn't able to use it effectively to help my teammates at the end of a race because I had a low FTP. One of the most effective ways to increase FTP is with long intervals. I had real success with 2x20' intervals. Since you don't have a PM, you're going to have to go on perceived effort or feel. The best way I would describe the right effort for 20' intervals is that it has to be heavy and slightly uncomfortable but not so uncomfortable that you can't finish the 20'. Then spin easy for 5' and do it again.
If you have a hill that takes you 30' to climb without stops, that might be a good place to do these.
If you have a hill that takes you 30' to climb without stops, that might be a good place to do these.
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Good. Cyclists who train with power refer to that as their functional threshold power. I had good 1' and 5' power but I wasn't able to use it effectively to help my teammates at the end of a race because I had a low FTP. One of the most effective ways to increase FTP is with long intervals. I had real success with 2x20' intervals. Since you don't have a PM, you're going to have to go on perceived effort or feel. The best way I would describe the right effort for 20' intervals is that it has to be heavy and slightly uncomfortable but not so uncomfortable that you can't finish the 20'. Then spin easy for 5' and do it again.
If you have a hill that takes you 30' to climb without stops, that might be a good place to do these.
If you have a hill that takes you 30' to climb without stops, that might be a good place to do these.
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I just looked at my last few sets of 2x20's and I tend to do them at 80-85 rpm, but I am focusing on a target wattage rather than cadence. Ideally I would do them at 90-95.
But 48x14 is a plenty big gear. 80 rpm on 26"x 1.5" tires is roughly 20mph.
But 48x14 is a plenty big gear. 80 rpm on 26"x 1.5" tires is roughly 20mph.
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"Training with power" or whatnot is part of an actual planned training process. It's way over MY head, not that that says all that much here. You are riding a bicycle, you aren't "training" in the sense that is implied by the above.
Put a few hundred miles into your legs and your other parts, and then see what you're up to, see what just strengthens itself on its own. I'm returning to riding more from a longer hiatus (a few years of long commutes and parenthood, adult beverages in the evening and laziness), and I'm just worrying at the moment about putting in the miles and the time, and once I've gotten the endurance up I'm going to worry at that point about working on specifics with intervals etc.
If anything, try and concentrate on getting out of your comfort zone... work on slightly increasing your cadence, pushing what feels like it's not fun, whether that's 'torque' or cadence is irrelevant, as long as you are doing what is hard for you, you're getting stronger in the weak places.
Note also that every. single. person. who starts one of these threads talks about how they are "efficient" or "comfortable" at a low cadence, and they might be right, but time generally proves that you can learn to spin quicker... faster spin means more speed without requiring as much pure strength, leveraging your heart and lungs instead of your pure muscle mass.
Put a few hundred miles into your legs and your other parts, and then see what you're up to, see what just strengthens itself on its own. I'm returning to riding more from a longer hiatus (a few years of long commutes and parenthood, adult beverages in the evening and laziness), and I'm just worrying at the moment about putting in the miles and the time, and once I've gotten the endurance up I'm going to worry at that point about working on specifics with intervals etc.
If anything, try and concentrate on getting out of your comfort zone... work on slightly increasing your cadence, pushing what feels like it's not fun, whether that's 'torque' or cadence is irrelevant, as long as you are doing what is hard for you, you're getting stronger in the weak places.
Note also that every. single. person. who starts one of these threads talks about how they are "efficient" or "comfortable" at a low cadence, and they might be right, but time generally proves that you can learn to spin quicker... faster spin means more speed without requiring as much pure strength, leveraging your heart and lungs instead of your pure muscle mass.
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Low cadence works fine, but you do have to push a pretty significant gear to get to your desired speed. I found that it was best to build power by churning uphill in a tough gear(on my road bike that equates to pushing a 53/17,19 up a 3 mile climb that has a 5-6% grade). Basically I do a ride that has numerous climbs of varied length and steepness and keep it in my big ring. I found that staying in the saddle at all times was not comfortable but was most effective at building power. Once the power is there you can now rider an easier gear at a higher RPM and the speed will be there. I think it best to start this kind of training gradually as it is tough on the whole body(knees, back)and you need to figure out whether this type of force is compatible with your body's tolerances. It is certainly not for every body. Hope this helps.
localroute
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"Training with power" or whatnot is part of an actual planned training process. It's way over MY head, not that that says all that much here. You are riding a bicycle, you aren't "training" in the sense that is implied by the above.
Put a few hundred miles into your legs and your other parts, and then see what you're up to, see what just strengthens itself on its own. I'm returning to riding more from a longer hiatus (a few years of long commutes and parenthood, adult beverages in the evening and laziness), and I'm just worrying at the moment about putting in the miles and the time, and once I've gotten the endurance up I'm going to worry at that point about working on specifics with intervals etc.
If anything, try and concentrate on getting out of your comfort zone... work on slightly increasing your cadence, pushing what feels like it's not fun, whether that's 'torque' or cadence is irrelevant, as long as you are doing what is hard for you, you're getting stronger in the weak places.
Note also that every. single. person. who starts one of these threads talks about how they are "efficient" or "comfortable" at a low cadence, and they might be right, but time generally proves that you can learn to spin quicker... faster spin means more speed without requiring as much pure strength, leveraging your heart and lungs instead of your pure muscle mass.
Put a few hundred miles into your legs and your other parts, and then see what you're up to, see what just strengthens itself on its own. I'm returning to riding more from a longer hiatus (a few years of long commutes and parenthood, adult beverages in the evening and laziness), and I'm just worrying at the moment about putting in the miles and the time, and once I've gotten the endurance up I'm going to worry at that point about working on specifics with intervals etc.
If anything, try and concentrate on getting out of your comfort zone... work on slightly increasing your cadence, pushing what feels like it's not fun, whether that's 'torque' or cadence is irrelevant, as long as you are doing what is hard for you, you're getting stronger in the weak places.
Note also that every. single. person. who starts one of these threads talks about how they are "efficient" or "comfortable" at a low cadence, and they might be right, but time generally proves that you can learn to spin quicker... faster spin means more speed without requiring as much pure strength, leveraging your heart and lungs instead of your pure muscle mass.
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Now, I personally like to cruise in the final gear (48x14) and turn about 50-60 rpm. according to bike calc, that plots me at 12.5-15 mph cruise speed. ranging 120 watts- 170 watts. Torque being around 17 lb/ft and 20lb/ft. I hope to be able to cruise 20mph in the future, and that's calculated for 305 watts, @ around 80 rpm 27lb/ft torque.
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OP - you are seriously overthinking this whole power thing.
Assuming you have strava-supported phone or any other strava compatible device and weighted accurately yourself and bicycle (separately) all you need to do is to find long enough (let's say 4-5miles) preferably steady (3% to 6% avg grade) climb and hit it with all you got.
Upload your ride to the strava and it will tell you how much power you generated on average for that climb.
It's that easy and take an hour or so do (20 min warmup and 20 to 40min actual climb).
Strava is quite accurate, possible many times more accurate than you theoretical calculations.
Once you established your baseline you can try same climb with different cadences and see what works the best for you.
There's number of very fast guys riding 70rpm or less all the time including some steep >5% grade & long climbs and still very fast and competitive so it all depends what works for you.
Assuming you have strava-supported phone or any other strava compatible device and weighted accurately yourself and bicycle (separately) all you need to do is to find long enough (let's say 4-5miles) preferably steady (3% to 6% avg grade) climb and hit it with all you got.
Upload your ride to the strava and it will tell you how much power you generated on average for that climb.
It's that easy and take an hour or so do (20 min warmup and 20 to 40min actual climb).
Strava is quite accurate, possible many times more accurate than you theoretical calculations.
Once you established your baseline you can try same climb with different cadences and see what works the best for you.
There's number of very fast guys riding 70rpm or less all the time including some steep >5% grade & long climbs and still very fast and competitive so it all depends what works for you.
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i'm going to do all sorts of training in this regard. high cadence low force, high force low cadence and combinations in between. I want to be a very flexible cyclist going from speed/ road to off-road and utility. doing both is probably good for all cyclists, I will try everything personally and share my results.
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It's book-worthy material, no less.
Assuming you will get to 170lbs or perhaps 160lbs (72kg) it will be around 4W/kg which falls into Cat 2 category Just How Good Are These Guys? | CyclingTips
I'm not sure how accurate those numbers / categories are but looking at strava it appears that there's very very few who can do 4W/kg or more and all of them have years and years of training.
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OP, you might find this entertaining What FTP can be expected from the average Joe? (Page 2): Triathlon Forum: Slowtwitch Forums - some practical insight into that 4W/kg thing.
I would suggest to read all posts by Andrew Coggan in that thread, it should inspire you.
I would suggest to read all posts by Andrew Coggan in that thread, it should inspire you.
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i'm going to do all sorts of training in this regard. high cadence low force, high force low cadence and combinations in between. I want to be a very flexible cyclist going from speed/ road to off-road and utility. doing both is probably good for all cyclists, I will try everything personally and share my results.
60 rpm in 48x14 with 26" wheels is 16 mph or so: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
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OP's entertaining, but he's a short fat guy riding a tank and not interested in the helpful information.
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Going from 120W or even 170W FTP to over 300 is nothing short of epic.
It's book-worthy material, no less.
Assuming you will get to 170lbs or perhaps 160lbs (72kg) it will be around 4W/kg which falls into Cat 2 category Just How Good Are These Guys? | CyclingTips
I'm not sure how accurate those numbers / categories are but looking at strava it appears that there's very very few who can do 4W/kg or more and all of them have years and years of training.
It's book-worthy material, no less.
Assuming you will get to 170lbs or perhaps 160lbs (72kg) it will be around 4W/kg which falls into Cat 2 category Just How Good Are These Guys? | CyclingTips
I'm not sure how accurate those numbers / categories are but looking at strava it appears that there's very very few who can do 4W/kg or more and all of them have years and years of training.
Per your second link 4 W/kg is about where an average _lean_ person can get realistically. Yes, 300 W at 160 lbs is 4 W/kg. But it does not mean that this guy can get to 300 W. That's because excess weight does not translate into extra wattage. The guy is 5'5", which means that his lean/skinny weight is about 130 lbs, and he can get to 130 * 0.454 * 4 = 236 W with training. For him 300 W is 5.1 W/kg.
Plus, the whole discussion is extremely vague, since he has no measuring equipment and his best estimate of his FTP is "120 to 170 W". That is about as precise as saying "I think I can bench press somewhere between 100 and 200 lbs".
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Going from 120W or even 170W FTP to over 300 is nothing short of epic.
It's book-worthy material, no less.
Assuming you will get to 170lbs or perhaps 160lbs (72kg) it will be around 4W/kg which falls into Cat 2 category Just How Good Are These Guys? | CyclingTips
I'm not sure how accurate those numbers / categories are but looking at strava it appears that there's very very few who can do 4W/kg or more and all of them have years and years of training.
It's book-worthy material, no less.
Assuming you will get to 170lbs or perhaps 160lbs (72kg) it will be around 4W/kg which falls into Cat 2 category Just How Good Are These Guys? | CyclingTips
I'm not sure how accurate those numbers / categories are but looking at strava it appears that there's very very few who can do 4W/kg or more and all of them have years and years of training.
I really want to read your posts after you do 2x20 in 48x14 at 16+ mph - with NO breaks in either 20-minute interval. You don't stop pedaling, you don't even let up in how hard you're pedaling - at all.
60 rpm in 48x14 with 26" wheels is 16 mph or so: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
60 rpm in 48x14 with 26" wheels is 16 mph or so: Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
do you do any sort of weight training outside of legs and bikes? or did you just optimize yourself for just cycling? I ride a tank, and enjoy the challenge. plus it rides like a Lincoln.
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in my racing days, i would do a 12 week winter training regime that included some heavy lifting twice a week, in addition to running, plyometrics, indoor soccer and volleyball. because i not only competed in road races, but also contested events on the track, i required significant core and upper body strength. But none of my muscles have ever been for show, only for go. my massage therapist remarks that her job is easiest on bodybuilders because their muscle tissue has the consistency of candy floss. My muscles are dense because they are all used every day whether at work or play.
#69
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This. Without a power meter, all of this discussion is pointless.
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well 4W/kg might be a great thought. but as speed goes up the power to weight is going to drop in significance right? I mean at that point aero is going to be the more important thing. from what was posted, he averaged 245 watts with a max over 20 mins of 361 watts.
challenge accepted. will attempt the next time I go onto the bike path.
do you do any sort of weight training outside of legs and bikes? or did you just optimize yourself for just cycling? I ride a tank, and enjoy the challenge. plus it rides like a Lincoln.
challenge accepted. will attempt the next time I go onto the bike path.
do you do any sort of weight training outside of legs and bikes? or did you just optimize yourself for just cycling? I ride a tank, and enjoy the challenge. plus it rides like a Lincoln.
Don't worry cyclists never miss leg day.
Last edited by BigJeff; 08-11-14 at 09:28 PM.
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Yes, that's the best you can do without a PM. I think you can get within 10 watt under good conditions.
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I guess once I get out and buy a road bike I'll have to do an actual test but so far all I have is a 2x20 @ 304W avg...from a random gym trainer so god knows where that accuracy could be or what "power" is even being measured, and a 4.6M climb @ 12.8mph w/average grade of 3.9%...but on a MTB that weighs 35lbs.
I like the idea of training with a powermeter, especially since I'm a numbers geek...but those price tags are brutal. Even stages at 699-799 is asking a lot for where I am now TT
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What grade do you think is ideal for that?
I guess once I get out and buy a road bike I'll have to do an actual test but so far all I have is a 2x20 @ 304W avg...from a random gym trainer so god knows where that accuracy could be or what "power" is even being measured, and a 4.6M climb @ 12.8mph w/average grade of 3.9%...but on a MTB that weighs 35lbs.
I guess once I get out and buy a road bike I'll have to do an actual test but so far all I have is a 2x20 @ 304W avg...from a random gym trainer so god knows where that accuracy could be or what "power" is even being measured, and a 4.6M climb @ 12.8mph w/average grade of 3.9%...but on a MTB that weighs 35lbs.