Inexpensive wheel durability
#1
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Inexpensive wheel durability
Is there really any durability difference between sub $500 wheels?
I'm going nuts looking through brand after brand of wheels in this price category.
An eyelet pulled out of a 2009 Fulcrum Racing 5 after 27,500 + miles and I want to replace it with something similar that I can get like mileage...or close at least.
Is there really any durability difference between Fulcrum Racing 5's...or Vuelta Corsa Lite's.....or Boyd Roleur's.....or any of the many many different brands?
I'm going nuts looking through brand after brand of wheels in this price category.
An eyelet pulled out of a 2009 Fulcrum Racing 5 after 27,500 + miles and I want to replace it with something similar that I can get like mileage...or close at least.
Is there really any durability difference between Fulcrum Racing 5's...or Vuelta Corsa Lite's.....or Boyd Roleur's.....or any of the many many different brands?
#3
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Generally cheaper wheels are more durable than expensive wheels if built properly. More material, higher spoke counts. I'd throw Mavic Aksiums in to the mix as well. Good, cheap, durable wheels
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Guess it depends what you call inexperience, would think of at machine built BSO wheel as inexperience, none of the Fulcrum range are inexpensive, for the distance you have put on the 5, would take it to have been very good value for money.
For Fulcrum wheels, the design has changed over they years, but they do seem to be very reliable wheels, currently I am using a early model 5 for Audax riding, and have no worries about reliability, I did have a Fulcrum 7 that got bent a few years ago, but that took a car driving into me to do it.
For Fulcrum wheels, the design has changed over they years, but they do seem to be very reliable wheels, currently I am using a early model 5 for Audax riding, and have no worries about reliability, I did have a Fulcrum 7 that got bent a few years ago, but that took a car driving into me to do it.
#5
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I think the rule of "light/strong/cheap, pick 2" applies here as with most engineering problems.
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Wheels are something that I'd rather use a heavier set for most of my riding. On times where you want to ride with a friend every once in awhile, I'll bust out the light wheelset. All other times, something like a 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro with 105 or Ultegra hubs will do the trick.
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My stock Shimano RS10's are riding true and nicely after 3K miles. No issues.
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Aksiums are some strong wheels. I was riding my CX bike down a gravel track at about 18 mph when it abruptly ended into a boulder field that was cleverly disguised by some very nice looking grass. I was on the tops and couldn't risk moving my hands to the brakes, so I had to ride the whole thing out. My front tire immediately exploded. The uncushioned rim bounced from rock to rock as the seat rammed my nuts, and then the front rim wedged itself in a crevice and sent me flying over the handlebars. It was a real shame no one was there to witness, because it must have been hilarious. Anyway, my Aksiums weren't even out of true. Only the tops of the rims had some small dings.
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I'm not sure that fixed anything... 
The point being: light wheels that are cheap are not likely to be durable... light and strong are possible, but expensive. Strong and cheap are possible, but not light (ask me... I've got open Pro CD rims on my wheels on my cannondale, and while I think they're great, and they were relatively inexpensive... people say they are heavy, though I haven't minded really.)

The point being: light wheels that are cheap are not likely to be durable... light and strong are possible, but expensive. Strong and cheap are possible, but not light (ask me... I've got open Pro CD rims on my wheels on my cannondale, and while I think they're great, and they were relatively inexpensive... people say they are heavy, though I haven't minded really.)
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If I got over 27k from a set, I'd likely have some brand loyalty.
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In addition to price points, there are characteristics you can look for in wheels, such as spoke count, spoke used, lacing pattern, etc. All these play a role in the durability of wheels, but they are things that will be difficult to gauge unless you either shop in store or are willing to do some careful research online.
Good wheels don't have to be expensive, but you're not going to get a good custom built wheelset without spending $600 or so. I'm riding the stock DT Swiss R1700s that came with my TCR SL3 and I love them. They're well made, but not expensive. I believe you can have a set for about $400.
Good wheels don't have to be expensive, but you're not going to get a good custom built wheelset without spending $600 or so. I'm riding the stock DT Swiss R1700s that came with my TCR SL3 and I love them. They're well made, but not expensive. I believe you can have a set for about $400.