Need help with rear derailleur sizing
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Need help with rear derailleur sizing
I have a 2013 Cannondale Synapse 5 105 alum on layaway at the LBS. I am currently riding a mountain bike with 26x1.5 road tires. I like to ride up the mountains, but have to stop some and am in granny gear the whole time. Most of the mountains here are around 1200' gain over 3-5 miles with average grades being around 6-9%
I understand that it would be a good idea to change my rear cassette at the time I pick up my road bike as all of the components are already new.
My mountain bike has 42/32/22 paired with 11-32 cog.
The Synapse has 50/34 paired with 12-30 cog.
I want to enjoy riding mountains not dreading mountains. I am not skinny. I am not going to be skinny. I am a sissy girl. I am happy to remain a sissy girl
My LBS guy says I'd enjoy the 11-34 as it is what his girlfriend uses and she is happy. The plan is just to change the rear derailleur to 11-34 and add links to the chain. According to the manual my bike is supposed to be able to handle the 11-34.
In your opinion is this a good idea? Do you think there are other components that will have to be changed? Or should I just go with a 11-32?
Here are the specs on the Synapse:
Frame - Women's Synapse Alloy, Optimized 6061 alloy, SAVE PLUS, BB30
Crank - FSA Gossamer, BB30, 50/34
Bottom Bracket - FSA BB30
Shifters - Shimano 105 5700
Cog Set - Shimano Tiagra 4600, 12-30, 10-speed
Chain - KMC X10, 10-speed
Front Derailleur - Shimano Tiagra 4600, 34.9 clamp
Rear Derailleur - Shimano 105 5700
Thanks for any information you can give me.
- Susan -
I understand that it would be a good idea to change my rear cassette at the time I pick up my road bike as all of the components are already new.
My mountain bike has 42/32/22 paired with 11-32 cog.
The Synapse has 50/34 paired with 12-30 cog.
I want to enjoy riding mountains not dreading mountains. I am not skinny. I am not going to be skinny. I am a sissy girl. I am happy to remain a sissy girl
My LBS guy says I'd enjoy the 11-34 as it is what his girlfriend uses and she is happy. The plan is just to change the rear derailleur to 11-34 and add links to the chain. According to the manual my bike is supposed to be able to handle the 11-34.
In your opinion is this a good idea? Do you think there are other components that will have to be changed? Or should I just go with a 11-32?
Here are the specs on the Synapse:
Frame - Women's Synapse Alloy, Optimized 6061 alloy, SAVE PLUS, BB30
Crank - FSA Gossamer, BB30, 50/34
Bottom Bracket - FSA BB30
Shifters - Shimano 105 5700
Cog Set - Shimano Tiagra 4600, 12-30, 10-speed
Chain - KMC X10, 10-speed
Front Derailleur - Shimano Tiagra 4600, 34.9 clamp
Rear Derailleur - Shimano 105 5700
Thanks for any information you can give me.
- Susan -
Last edited by falconsusi; 08-24-14 at 06:55 PM.
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So long as the derailleur can handle a 34t cassette I would think that would be a good way to go. Since it already has a 30 it may be a long cage but your lbs guy should be able to ensure that
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I'm not sure what exactly he means by "changing the rear derailleur". Shimano road derailleurs do not go to 34 (not officially). Most Shimano mountain derailleurs are incompatible with road shifters. Maybe there is one or two low-end mountain RD models that would work. Maybe the one currently on the bike is medium-cage (it likely is, since the current cassette is 12-30 and short-cage 105's go to 28), and he hopes to make it work with 11-34 by manipulating the configuration screws.
That said, if the guy says he can do it, it probably means he can do it, and 11-34 is nice if you're not skinny and you have too many hills around.
That said, if the guy says he can do it, it probably means he can do it, and 11-34 is nice if you're not skinny and you have too many hills around.
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Oops meant cassette not derailleur. Maybe that's why I am not getting many replies. Dang newbie
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#6
aka Phil Jungels
I would hardly call an increase in a low gear of 13% paltry! If it will work (the 34T cassette) with your derailleur, it will be a noticeable improvement on steep grades..... Go for it!
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Take your current bike and go to one of the steepest climbs around your area. Go up the hill and see what gear(s) get you to the top comfortably. Get off the bike at the top of the hill and take note of the chain ring/cassette cog combination; using one of the available gear inch charts on the web (search for sheldon brown's page) plug the 42/32/22 chanrings and 11-32 cassette and find the gear inch equivalent.
Then calculate gear inches for 50/34 chain ring and the 12-30 (and 12-32) cassettes and see how those gear inch ratios compare to the number found from the first calculation. You want to make sure that the number found in your first calculation is equal or greater than the number from the lowest gear combination (34-30 for the 12-30 cassette or 34-32 for the 12-32 cassette).
Some people go even further and allow an extra low gear, for those really terrible days and/or to account for the decreased power output on longer than average rides. Say that your calculation shows you need a 34-30 lowest gear, then people would suggest to go for the 12-32 cassette for good measure (giving you a 34-32 lowest gear).
Then calculate gear inches for 50/34 chain ring and the 12-30 (and 12-32) cassettes and see how those gear inch ratios compare to the number found from the first calculation. You want to make sure that the number found in your first calculation is equal or greater than the number from the lowest gear combination (34-30 for the 12-30 cassette or 34-32 for the 12-32 cassette).
Some people go even further and allow an extra low gear, for those really terrible days and/or to account for the decreased power output on longer than average rides. Say that your calculation shows you need a 34-30 lowest gear, then people would suggest to go for the 12-32 cassette for good measure (giving you a 34-32 lowest gear).
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You brought back an old thread. I did get the 11-34 rear cassette. I really like it. I have been climbing up the mountains without dying including a 14% 0.7mile stretch. I think I have decided next summer I will go with the 11-32 cassette. I have 650 miles on the 11-34 already in 2 months. It's almost time for a new chain. I am really getting strong
Last edited by falconsusi; 11-04-14 at 08:13 PM.
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I am riding a road bike now. Two months now. Compact crank 50/34 and rear cassette of 11-34. Multiple mountain climbs. The toughest in our valley . I am a mountain climbing machine. LOL! And I have lost 16lbs in the 2 months I have had my road bike. (13 lbs lost during the time I was on the hybrid for 4 months)!
According to my local bike guy I have worn my chain by 50% already. I am wondering if me set up is gonna wear parts faster.
According to my local bike guy I have worn my chain by 50% already. I am wondering if me set up is gonna wear parts faster.
Last edited by falconsusi; 11-04-14 at 08:28 PM.
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I am riding a road bike now. Two months now. Compact crank 50/34 and rear cassette of 11-34. Multiple mountain climbs. The toughest in our valley . I am a mountain climbing machine. LOL! And I have lost 16lbs in the 2 months I have had my road bike. (13 lbs lost during the time I was on the hybrid for 4 months)!
#12
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You brought back an old thread. I did get the 11-34 rear cassette. I really like it. I have been climbing up the mountains without dying including a 14% 0.7mile stretch. I think I have decided next summer I will go with the 11-32 cassette. I have 650 miles on the 11-34 already in 2 months. It's almost time for a new chain. I am really getting strong
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50% wear right now. And yes I am learning about bike maintenance now. I need to clean my chain... I am going to get one of those little blue chain scrubber things. I love my bike. I need to clean my bike... Okay- later this week
#14
SuperGimp
OK, can you elaborate on how your mechanic got a 34 tooth cog working with your derailleur? As hamster said, they're not really officially supposed to but I've heard of plenty of people using a 30 tooth cog without difficulty.
Congrats on your recent accomplishments.
Congrats on your recent accomplishments.
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Congrats on your riding progress and your gearing seems to be a good choice. You'll be ready for 3S3M and Burkhalter!
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SE TN is beautiful and hilly. You should post some pics of your bike and the mtns you are climbing.
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OK, can you elaborate on how your mechanic got a 34 tooth cog working with your derailleur? As hamster said, they're not really officially supposed to but I've heard of plenty of people using a 30 tooth cog without difficulty.
Congrats on your recent accomplishments.
Congrats on your recent accomplishments.
The bike came originally with a 12-30 rear. And was listed as being compatible with a 34 rear in the book.
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I am planning on doing the 3S3M next may. I have climbed 5 mountains so far in the Sequatchie Valley and one in the Lookout Valley. Suck Creek from Sequatchie side, Henson's Gap, Brockdell (my first mountain), Sequatchie Mountain Road, Daus Mountain as a 47 mile loop 3700' total (definitely my toughest ride) from my house, and Raccoon Mountain. I gotta work on the distance now.
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Last edited by falconsusi; 11-05-14 at 10:59 AM.
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Love the pics! Thanks, and nice bike.
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Nice pics! I'm confident you will be ready for 3S3M. IMO the downhills are the worst, especially if it rains!
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I don't like to think about rain. I will probably not ride if it rains . I am scared of wet roads. Especially since I am a downhill fiend
And really - thanks for the vote of confidence!
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I love the downhills! I just hit my top speed of 44.1 mph coming down hwy111 during the Daus Mountain loop. It is such a smooth highway. Wow what a rush!
I don't like to think about rain. I will probably not ride if it rains . I am scared of wet roads. Especially since I am a downhill fiend
And really - thanks for the vote of confidence!
I don't like to think about rain. I will probably not ride if it rains . I am scared of wet roads. Especially since I am a downhill fiend
And really - thanks for the vote of confidence!