Best "Intermediate" Tool Kit?
02-16-15 | 03:20 PM
#26
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
If you have a Performance Bike near you, take the Nashbar add, and ask them to match the price with their name on the exact same set......... and then stop at Harbor Freight for your torque wrench. MHO
02-16-15 | 04:26 PM
#27
I never use cone wrenches any more. And there's lots of different bottom brackets and crank tools. You want to get the correct ones for your bike.
Most of my tools aren't in these sets!
For my bike: (We'll see if other commenters have different ideas.)
I enjoy working on my bike. So I buy tools as needed.
A repair stand. They are expensive, but last forever. Every repair or adjustment is easier with one.
Chain breaker tool and quick links to rejoin the chain. New 10 or 11 speed chains are fussy about installing the new pin correctly. The quick links avoid all that. I've used Connex 10 speed links, which are strong and very easy to connect and disconnect.
A good metal ruler for measuring chain wear. I have one of the chain checkers, but the ruler is more accurate.
Cable cutter (including a crimp end tool--most of these do.) and a bag of cable crimps.
Dremel to grind off the ends of the cable housing. You might be able to use a file, but that's really slow, and a Dremel has lots of other uses.
4-5-6 mm Y wrench
A set of hex wrenches--the loose L ones work better- good leverage and can fit into tight places, but a set that folds out of a handle is okay.
I also have a set of 3, 4, 5 mm hex screwdriver handled, so I can start and spin on the bolts easier.
Yes--I have 4 different types of hex wrenches, including the screwgun hex set! But I started with a set of L wrenches.
Don't get the "dollar store" cheap no-name hex wrenches. A good set will be accurate and won't round the edges off.
A bottom bracket tool and any tool required to remove your cranks. It depends on your cranks and bottom bracket styles. Sometimes the crank area gets creaking or clicking noises, and it's good to disassemble, clean and grease it.
Or you might remove the crankset so you can reach in and turn the bearings by hand to see if they are worn out. They may be press fit to replace them, and that's a good job for a bike store.
Pedal wrench. My pedals use an 8 mm long handled hex wrench, there aren't any of the usual 15mm flats on my pedals.
Black handle Park Tool spoke wrench. This is the correct size for my spoke nipples.
I have a Park Tool tension meter and a truing stand, since I like working on wheels and have built a couple of wheels. Optional otherwise.
Torque wrench. An inexpensive 5 nm preset one can work okay, but I like the Park Tool beam wrenches. I have the smaller one, from 0 to 7 nm. Mine needed separate adapters to fit screwgun ends. I have a set of hex ends to use with the torque wrench.
Carbon assembly paste in a tube. This works great on seatposts and on handlebar clamps, even if they are aluminum. Much less torque is needed to hold it in place.
Blue Loktite thread locker. Mostly for bottle cage bolts and tail light bolts. I use grease on stem and seatpost bolts.
13mm sears open end wrench that fits the flats on my brakes, to hold them while the 5mm wrench tightens the bolt.
Cassette tool. Mine has a 1 inch hex outside, so I got a cheap 1 inch deep socket to fit it, and I can use a socket wrench. I already had an automotive sized torque wrench, so that's good when tightening the cassette, but it's probably not necessary.
Chain whip to use when removing the cassette.
Misc:
small flat blade screwdrivers.
small Phillips screwdrivers.
Torx bolts are becoming more common! I use a screwdriver handled T20 for my Campagnolo brakes. And I think a T25 is quite common, but check your own bike.
Diagonal cutters. Mostly for clipping zip ties. Terrible for cutting cables.
Pliers.
Flashlight.
3M electrical tape. Way better than the no-name tape.
Silver Sharpie pen for marking dark surfaces. I use this a lot! (rubbing alcohol takes it off)
bike grease in a tube.
Chain lube.
car wax for the paint.
90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore for wiping off the chain, etc.
Odorless mineral spirits from the paint store for cleaning cassettes and getting grease off.
Keep a spare tube on hand. Keep an old worn tire on hand to use temporarily in case a tire is cut too bad to ride.
Tire levers
Floor pump
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start:
L hex wrenches.
grease.
carbon assembly paste.
metal ruler.
chain tool and quick links.
spare tube.
tire levers
floor pump of course.
misc screwdrivers.
One of the comments above mentioned headset spacers. I've been trying different stem heights on my steerer tube, so a couple of spare 5mm spacers is good to have, to try different setups.
Add a torque wrench if possible. It's getting more critical. Most new mechanics aren't good at estimating the correct torques. EDIT--I've seen two different threads lately where the carbon steerer tube was cracked from too much torque on the stem bolts. At least get an inexpensive 5nm torque key.
If you like working on your bikes, get the repair stand. It'll really help.
Then these can be added later:
new shifter cables after two years. The back one tends to fray where it bends at the shifter. And new housing will help it shift smoother. So get the cutter, the cable set, and the crimp ends. A dremel really makes this easy--the cable housing is crushed or bent where it's cut by the cutters. Grinding it off flat with a Dremel is easy.
I'm picky about getting the cable housing just the right length. Bikes come with extra long housing to accomodate different bike setups. When I cut my own, I can go back and trim another bit off until it fits perfectly.
Creaking or cranks that don't spin easily: either take it to the bike shop, or get the tools to disassemble. My old bike had recurring creaking that was easily fixed by pulling the crank, wiping it off, and regreasing.
Wheels a little out of true, with brake pulsing: A spoke tool.
New cassette, either worn out (after maybe 3 to 5 years? ) or a different size wanted. Cassette tool and chain whip.
Most of my tools aren't in these sets!
For my bike: (We'll see if other commenters have different ideas.)
I enjoy working on my bike. So I buy tools as needed.
A repair stand. They are expensive, but last forever. Every repair or adjustment is easier with one.
Chain breaker tool and quick links to rejoin the chain. New 10 or 11 speed chains are fussy about installing the new pin correctly. The quick links avoid all that. I've used Connex 10 speed links, which are strong and very easy to connect and disconnect.
A good metal ruler for measuring chain wear. I have one of the chain checkers, but the ruler is more accurate.
Cable cutter (including a crimp end tool--most of these do.) and a bag of cable crimps.
Dremel to grind off the ends of the cable housing. You might be able to use a file, but that's really slow, and a Dremel has lots of other uses.
4-5-6 mm Y wrench
A set of hex wrenches--the loose L ones work better- good leverage and can fit into tight places, but a set that folds out of a handle is okay.
I also have a set of 3, 4, 5 mm hex screwdriver handled, so I can start and spin on the bolts easier.
Yes--I have 4 different types of hex wrenches, including the screwgun hex set! But I started with a set of L wrenches.
Don't get the "dollar store" cheap no-name hex wrenches. A good set will be accurate and won't round the edges off.
A bottom bracket tool and any tool required to remove your cranks. It depends on your cranks and bottom bracket styles. Sometimes the crank area gets creaking or clicking noises, and it's good to disassemble, clean and grease it.
Or you might remove the crankset so you can reach in and turn the bearings by hand to see if they are worn out. They may be press fit to replace them, and that's a good job for a bike store.
Pedal wrench. My pedals use an 8 mm long handled hex wrench, there aren't any of the usual 15mm flats on my pedals.
Black handle Park Tool spoke wrench. This is the correct size for my spoke nipples.
I have a Park Tool tension meter and a truing stand, since I like working on wheels and have built a couple of wheels. Optional otherwise.
Torque wrench. An inexpensive 5 nm preset one can work okay, but I like the Park Tool beam wrenches. I have the smaller one, from 0 to 7 nm. Mine needed separate adapters to fit screwgun ends. I have a set of hex ends to use with the torque wrench.
Carbon assembly paste in a tube. This works great on seatposts and on handlebar clamps, even if they are aluminum. Much less torque is needed to hold it in place.
Blue Loktite thread locker. Mostly for bottle cage bolts and tail light bolts. I use grease on stem and seatpost bolts.
13mm sears open end wrench that fits the flats on my brakes, to hold them while the 5mm wrench tightens the bolt.
Cassette tool. Mine has a 1 inch hex outside, so I got a cheap 1 inch deep socket to fit it, and I can use a socket wrench. I already had an automotive sized torque wrench, so that's good when tightening the cassette, but it's probably not necessary.
Chain whip to use when removing the cassette.
Misc:
small flat blade screwdrivers.
small Phillips screwdrivers.
Torx bolts are becoming more common! I use a screwdriver handled T20 for my Campagnolo brakes. And I think a T25 is quite common, but check your own bike.
Diagonal cutters. Mostly for clipping zip ties. Terrible for cutting cables.
Pliers.
Flashlight.
3M electrical tape. Way better than the no-name tape.
Silver Sharpie pen for marking dark surfaces. I use this a lot! (rubbing alcohol takes it off)
bike grease in a tube.
Chain lube.
car wax for the paint.
90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore for wiping off the chain, etc.
Odorless mineral spirits from the paint store for cleaning cassettes and getting grease off.
Keep a spare tube on hand. Keep an old worn tire on hand to use temporarily in case a tire is cut too bad to ride.
Tire levers
Floor pump
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start:
L hex wrenches.
grease.
carbon assembly paste.
metal ruler.
chain tool and quick links.
spare tube.
tire levers
floor pump of course.
misc screwdrivers.
One of the comments above mentioned headset spacers. I've been trying different stem heights on my steerer tube, so a couple of spare 5mm spacers is good to have, to try different setups.
Add a torque wrench if possible. It's getting more critical. Most new mechanics aren't good at estimating the correct torques. EDIT--I've seen two different threads lately where the carbon steerer tube was cracked from too much torque on the stem bolts. At least get an inexpensive 5nm torque key.
If you like working on your bikes, get the repair stand. It'll really help.
Then these can be added later:
new shifter cables after two years. The back one tends to fray where it bends at the shifter. And new housing will help it shift smoother. So get the cutter, the cable set, and the crimp ends. A dremel really makes this easy--the cable housing is crushed or bent where it's cut by the cutters. Grinding it off flat with a Dremel is easy.
I'm picky about getting the cable housing just the right length. Bikes come with extra long housing to accomodate different bike setups. When I cut my own, I can go back and trim another bit off until it fits perfectly.
Creaking or cranks that don't spin easily: either take it to the bike shop, or get the tools to disassemble. My old bike had recurring creaking that was easily fixed by pulling the crank, wiping it off, and regreasing.
Wheels a little out of true, with brake pulsing: A spoke tool.
New cassette, either worn out (after maybe 3 to 5 years? ) or a different size wanted. Cassette tool and chain whip.
Last edited by rm -rf; 04-20-15 at 08:33 PM.
02-16-15 | 05:18 PM
#28
SuperGimp
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 13,346
Likes: 65
From: Whittier, CA
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
I bought an earlier iteration of that identical tool kit about 15 years ago and it's still going strong, although the crank extractor isn't particularly useful anymore. 
. Now I just buy tools one by one if I need something different, but it's really not a bad way to get a decent base of tools right off the bat. I confess that I like the little molded in tool holders so I can tell that everythign is in there - I chuck it in the car every time I go out of town for a ride and it's nice to know everything's there.
. Now I just buy tools one by one if I need something different, but it's really not a bad way to get a decent base of tools right off the bat. I confess that I like the little molded in tool holders so I can tell that everythign is in there - I chuck it in the car every time I go out of town for a ride and it's nice to know everything's there.
02-16-15 | 06:47 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
Bikes: Cervelo S2, Workswell 062, Banshee Spitfire
A lot of the tools in the kit seem redundant if you already have a "normal" toolkit at home.
I did what the other posters suggested. I bought them on an as needed basis.
So far the bike specific tools I have:
-cable cutter
-chain whip
-lockring removal tool
-chain breaker
-chainring nut wrench
-steerer tube cutting guide
-chain measuring tool
-caliper alignment tool (for the MTB's)
-Ritchey Torq Key for stems and seat clamps
-pedal wrench
-1/4 drive torque wrench from Price Point for bolts requiring more than 5nm.
Then the typical pliers, hex, torx, etc from my normal tool box.
I'm thinking about picking up a couple fork specific tools. I got three MTB's that use Fox forks and one Marzocchi...and at 80-100 a pop to service...the tools will pay for themselves after the first service.
I did what the other posters suggested. I bought them on an as needed basis.
So far the bike specific tools I have:
-cable cutter
-chain whip
-lockring removal tool
-chain breaker
-chainring nut wrench
-steerer tube cutting guide
-chain measuring tool
-caliper alignment tool (for the MTB's)
-Ritchey Torq Key for stems and seat clamps
-pedal wrench
-1/4 drive torque wrench from Price Point for bolts requiring more than 5nm.
Then the typical pliers, hex, torx, etc from my normal tool box.
I'm thinking about picking up a couple fork specific tools. I got three MTB's that use Fox forks and one Marzocchi...and at 80-100 a pop to service...the tools will pay for themselves after the first service.
02-16-15 | 07:14 PM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 326
From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Both of the following tool kits look like solid values with excellent quality:
Nashbar Premium Tool Kit
Robot Check
The nashbar kit is a little less expensive this weekend but the bikehand has wrenches with coated handles which might prove handy.
They both look good to me. If there are any key differences, let me know.
Nashbar Premium Tool Kit
Robot Check
The nashbar kit is a little less expensive this weekend but the bikehand has wrenches with coated handles which might prove handy.
They both look good to me. If there are any key differences, let me know.
They lack tools you're likely to want, like torque wrenches.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 02-17-15 at 06:16 PM.
02-16-15 | 11:55 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Wow, talk about a wealth of knowledge! I think a lot of people will benefit from your very detailed and knowledgeable response. Brilliant!
I never use cone wrenches any more. And there's lots of different bottom brackets and crank tools. You want to get the correct ones for your bike.
Most of my tools aren't in these sets!
For my bike: (We'll see if other commenters have different ideas.)
I enjoy working on my bike. So I buy tools as needed.
A repair stand. They are expensive, but last forever. Every repair or adjustment is easier with one.
Chain breaker tool and quick links to rejoin the chain. New 10 or 11 speed chains are fussy about installing the new pin correctly. The quick links avoid all that. I've used Connex 10 speed links, which are strong and very easy to connect and disconnect.
A good metal ruler for measuring chain wear. I have one of the chain checkers, but the ruler is more accurate.
Cable cutter (including a crimp end tool--most of these do.) and a bag of cable crimps.
Dremel to grind off the ends of the cable housing. You might be able to use a file, but that's really slow, and a Dremel has lots of other uses.
4-5-6 mm Y wrench
A set of hex wrenches--the loose L ones work better- good leverage and can fit into tight places, but a set that folds out of a handle is okay.
I also have a set of 3, 4, 5 mm hex screwdriver handled, so I can start and spin on the bolts easier.
Yes--I have 4 different types of hex wrenches, including the screwgun hex set! But I started with a set of L wrenches.
Don't get the "dollar store" cheap no-name hex wrenches. A good set will be accurate and won't round the edges off.
A bottom bracket tool and any tool required to remove your cranks. It depends on your cranks and bottom bracket styles. Sometimes the crank area gets creaking or clicking noises, and it's good to disassemble, clean and grease it.
Or you might remove the crankset so you can reach in and turn the bearings by hand to see if they are worn out. They may be press fit to replace them, and that's a good job for a bike store.
Pedal wrench. My pedals use an 8 mm long handled hex wrench, there aren't any of the usual 15mm flats on my pedals.
Black handle Park Tool spoke wrench. This is the correct size for my spoke nipples.
I have a Park Tool tension meter and a truing stand, since I like working on wheels and have built a couple of wheels. Optional otherwise.
Torque wrench. An inexpensive 5 nm preset one can work okay, but I like the Park Tool beam wrenches. I have the smaller one, from 0 to 7 nm. Mine needed separate adapters to fit screwgun ends. I have a set of hex ends to use with the torque wrench.
Carbon assembly paste in a tube. This works great on seatposts and on handlebar clamps, even if they are aluminum. Much less torque is needed to hold it in place.
Blue Loktite thread locker. Mostly for bottle cage bolts and tail light bolts. I use grease on stem and seatpost bolts.
13mm sears open end wrench that fits the flats on my brakes, to hold them while the 5mm wrench tightens the bolt.
Cassette tool. Mine has a 1 inch hex outside, so I got a cheap 1 inch deep socket to fit it, and I can use a socket wrench. I already had an automotive sized torque wrench, so that's good when tightening the cassette, but it's probably not necessary.
Chain whip to use when removing the cassette.
Misc:
small flat blade screwdrivers.
small Phillips screwdrivers.
Torx bolts are becoming more common! I use a screwdriver handled T20 for my Campagnolo brakes. And I think a T25 is quite common, but check your own bike.
Diagonal cutters. Mostly for clipping zip ties. Terrible for cutting cables.
Pliers.
Flashlight.
3M electrical tape. Way better than the no-name tape.
Silver Sharpie pen for marking dark surfaces. I use this a lot! (rubbing alcohol takes it off)
bike grease in a tube.
Chain lube.
car wax for the paint.
90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore for wiping off the chain, etc.
Odorless mineral spirits from the paint store for cleaning cassettes and getting grease off.
Keep a spare tube on hand. Keep an old worn tire on hand in case a tire is cut too bad to ride.
Tire levers
Floor pump
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start:
L hex wrenches.
grease.
carbon assembly paste.
metal ruler.
chain tool and quick links.
spare tube.
tire levers
floor pump of course.
misc screwdrivers.
One of the comments above mentioned headset spacers. I've been trying different stem heights on my steerer tube, so a couple of spare 5mm spacers is good to have, to try different setups.
Add a torque wrench if possible. It's getting more critical. Most new mechanics aren't good at estimating the correct torques.
If you like working on your bikes, get the repair stand. It'll really help.
Then these can be added later:
new shifter cables after two years. The back one tends to fray where it bends at the shifter. And new housing will help it shift smoother. So get the cutter, the cable set, and the crimp ends. A dremel really makes this easy--the cable housing is crushed or bent where it's cut by the cutters. Grinding it off flat with a Dremel is easy.
I'm picky about getting the cable housing just the right length. Bikes come with extra long housing to accomodate different bike setups. When I cut my own, I can go back and trim another bit off until it fits perfectly.
Creaking or cranks that don't spin easily: either take it to the bike shop, or get the tools to disassemble. My old bike had recurring creaking that was easily fixed by pulling the crank, wiping it off, and regreasing.
Wheels a little out of true, with brake pulsing: A spoke tool.
New cassette, either worn out (after maybe 3 to 5 years? ) or a different size wanted. Cassette tool and chain whip.
Most of my tools aren't in these sets!
For my bike: (We'll see if other commenters have different ideas.)
I enjoy working on my bike. So I buy tools as needed.
A repair stand. They are expensive, but last forever. Every repair or adjustment is easier with one.
Chain breaker tool and quick links to rejoin the chain. New 10 or 11 speed chains are fussy about installing the new pin correctly. The quick links avoid all that. I've used Connex 10 speed links, which are strong and very easy to connect and disconnect.
A good metal ruler for measuring chain wear. I have one of the chain checkers, but the ruler is more accurate.
Cable cutter (including a crimp end tool--most of these do.) and a bag of cable crimps.
Dremel to grind off the ends of the cable housing. You might be able to use a file, but that's really slow, and a Dremel has lots of other uses.
4-5-6 mm Y wrench
A set of hex wrenches--the loose L ones work better- good leverage and can fit into tight places, but a set that folds out of a handle is okay.
I also have a set of 3, 4, 5 mm hex screwdriver handled, so I can start and spin on the bolts easier.
Yes--I have 4 different types of hex wrenches, including the screwgun hex set! But I started with a set of L wrenches.
Don't get the "dollar store" cheap no-name hex wrenches. A good set will be accurate and won't round the edges off.
A bottom bracket tool and any tool required to remove your cranks. It depends on your cranks and bottom bracket styles. Sometimes the crank area gets creaking or clicking noises, and it's good to disassemble, clean and grease it.
Or you might remove the crankset so you can reach in and turn the bearings by hand to see if they are worn out. They may be press fit to replace them, and that's a good job for a bike store.
Pedal wrench. My pedals use an 8 mm long handled hex wrench, there aren't any of the usual 15mm flats on my pedals.
Black handle Park Tool spoke wrench. This is the correct size for my spoke nipples.
I have a Park Tool tension meter and a truing stand, since I like working on wheels and have built a couple of wheels. Optional otherwise.
Torque wrench. An inexpensive 5 nm preset one can work okay, but I like the Park Tool beam wrenches. I have the smaller one, from 0 to 7 nm. Mine needed separate adapters to fit screwgun ends. I have a set of hex ends to use with the torque wrench.
Carbon assembly paste in a tube. This works great on seatposts and on handlebar clamps, even if they are aluminum. Much less torque is needed to hold it in place.
Blue Loktite thread locker. Mostly for bottle cage bolts and tail light bolts. I use grease on stem and seatpost bolts.
13mm sears open end wrench that fits the flats on my brakes, to hold them while the 5mm wrench tightens the bolt.
Cassette tool. Mine has a 1 inch hex outside, so I got a cheap 1 inch deep socket to fit it, and I can use a socket wrench. I already had an automotive sized torque wrench, so that's good when tightening the cassette, but it's probably not necessary.
Chain whip to use when removing the cassette.
Misc:
small flat blade screwdrivers.
small Phillips screwdrivers.
Torx bolts are becoming more common! I use a screwdriver handled T20 for my Campagnolo brakes. And I think a T25 is quite common, but check your own bike.
Diagonal cutters. Mostly for clipping zip ties. Terrible for cutting cables.
Pliers.
Flashlight.
3M electrical tape. Way better than the no-name tape.
Silver Sharpie pen for marking dark surfaces. I use this a lot! (rubbing alcohol takes it off)
bike grease in a tube.
Chain lube.
car wax for the paint.
90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore for wiping off the chain, etc.
Odorless mineral spirits from the paint store for cleaning cassettes and getting grease off.
Keep a spare tube on hand. Keep an old worn tire on hand in case a tire is cut too bad to ride.
Tire levers
Floor pump
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start:
L hex wrenches.
grease.
carbon assembly paste.
metal ruler.
chain tool and quick links.
spare tube.
tire levers
floor pump of course.
misc screwdrivers.
One of the comments above mentioned headset spacers. I've been trying different stem heights on my steerer tube, so a couple of spare 5mm spacers is good to have, to try different setups.
Add a torque wrench if possible. It's getting more critical. Most new mechanics aren't good at estimating the correct torques.
If you like working on your bikes, get the repair stand. It'll really help.
Then these can be added later:
new shifter cables after two years. The back one tends to fray where it bends at the shifter. And new housing will help it shift smoother. So get the cutter, the cable set, and the crimp ends. A dremel really makes this easy--the cable housing is crushed or bent where it's cut by the cutters. Grinding it off flat with a Dremel is easy.
I'm picky about getting the cable housing just the right length. Bikes come with extra long housing to accomodate different bike setups. When I cut my own, I can go back and trim another bit off until it fits perfectly.
Creaking or cranks that don't spin easily: either take it to the bike shop, or get the tools to disassemble. My old bike had recurring creaking that was easily fixed by pulling the crank, wiping it off, and regreasing.
Wheels a little out of true, with brake pulsing: A spoke tool.
New cassette, either worn out (after maybe 3 to 5 years? ) or a different size wanted. Cassette tool and chain whip.
02-17-15 | 04:11 PM
#32
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Also, I picked up a torque wrench at performance. Price matched with nashbar also. It comes with a hex/torx bit set included along with 2 day shipping since I'm a team performance member.
02-18-15 | 07:50 AM
#33
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Torque wrenches can be bought for $10 at Harbor Freight, when on sale..... These are plenty good quality for what we use them for. Decent tool, at a very good price. Pick up a set of metric allen sockets to go with it, while you are there.
Last edited by Wanderer; 02-18-15 at 07:54 AM.
02-18-15 | 07:59 AM
#34
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 70
I have the the Nashbar kit and it has served me well, but do expect the pieces with moving parts and the tire levers to break over time. The broken ones have most been replaced with Park or other better versions. First items to fall apart on me were the chain tool, crank extractor and tire levers. Even with the losses, I didn't bother asking for replacements, they are good occasional tools, but to don't expect them to last with frequent use.
02-18-15 | 08:05 AM
#35
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 70
Also have the Spin Doctor kit from Performance for some newer tools
The Nashbar kit is about 20 years old while the Performance roughly 10, Nashbar kit has some useful wrenches for threaded headsets and older bottom brackets
The Nashbar kit is about 20 years old while the Performance roughly 10, Nashbar kit has some useful wrenches for threaded headsets and older bottom brackets
I was out of town today and picked this up:
Spin Doctor Essential Tool Kit
I also bought a couple of jerseys to get the 20% off promotion. Seemed like a pretty good deal at $40. I'll test out some of the gear on my mountain bike in the next day or two.
edit: is there still a need to buy either of these two toolkits or should I just buy tools on a piecemeal basis?
Spin Doctor Essential Tool Kit
I also bought a couple of jerseys to get the 20% off promotion. Seemed like a pretty good deal at $40. I'll test out some of the gear on my mountain bike in the next day or two.
edit: is there still a need to buy either of these two toolkits or should I just buy tools on a piecemeal basis?
02-18-15 | 08:08 AM
#36
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
I've got a LOT of tools, acquired over 50 years or so, and still have a dedicated bike tool toolbox, actually a kit from Performance.
It's really nice to grab one toolbox, and go out on the driveway or porch on a nice day, to work on bikes.
It's really nice to grab one toolbox, and go out on the driveway or porch on a nice day, to work on bikes.
02-19-15 | 12:57 AM
#37
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
I'm personally against buying tool sets.
It's a great way to get a bunch of tools you'll never need while wasting the money you could be saving for the ones you do.
OP, why don't you tell us what bike you have and then we can list every tool you'll ever need to maintain your specific bike. From teardown to buildup.
It's a great way to get a bunch of tools you'll never need while wasting the money you could be saving for the ones you do.
OP, why don't you tell us what bike you have and then we can list every tool you'll ever need to maintain your specific bike. From teardown to buildup.
03-11-15 | 08:56 AM
#39
Fatty McFatcakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 986
Likes: 3
From: Krispy Kreme
Bikes: Aero Cheeseburger w/ Sr(h)am eBacon
Sorry to resurrect this 3 weeks later, but I got a sale email from Performance that I think is too good to not share.
Normally, I wouldn't recommend buying a pre-packaged bike tool kit. But...
In this case, I think it's a fantastic deal – especially for someone wanting to start their collection:
50% Off Spin Doctor Team 33 Tool Kit - $99
Enjoy!
Normally, I wouldn't recommend buying a pre-packaged bike tool kit. But...
In this case, I think it's a fantastic deal – especially for someone wanting to start their collection:
50% Off Spin Doctor Team 33 Tool Kit - $99
Enjoy!
