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Show off that Randonneur; and let's discuss the bike, the gear, the sport

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Old 03-12-10, 04:57 AM
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I guess that is the way it goes. I have seen quite a few threads dissing 650B bikes...all by folks that have never ridden one....internet experts. I got a good deal on the Bleriot and there may still be some frames around. Here is a link to conversions: https://www.bikeman.com/content/view/1161/33/ The BB is lower and you do have to be careful in corners.
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Old 03-12-10, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by redxj
I wouldn't waste your time with contacting Kogswell. Even if he would actually answer an email or the phone I bet he has nothing for stock. There hasn't been a new shipment of Kogswell P/Rs or forks in a long time. In fact Kogswell is going to now concentrate on 26" (559) wheels only. Longleaf bicycles in North Carolina is going to take over the 650B Kogswell production from now on. They had a few 1" forks a while back, but all were 650b. The 700c Kogswell forks are 1 1/8", set up for canti brakes, and have a long axle to crown measurement. The rake on those is/was 58mm. If Anthony at Longleaf is smart he will make a 1" conversion fork with 58mm or more rake with or without canti posts and if he can keep them around $100 would sell a ton of those.
My Woodrup fork has 375 mm axle to crown. Brake fit is just at the end of a vintage medium reach brake caliper, first-gen DuraAce, with 700c. The bike was was originally made for 27 inch touring wheels.
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Old 03-12-10, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by redxj
I wouldn't waste your time with contacting Kogswell. Even if he would actually answer an email or the phone I bet he has nothing for stock. There hasn't been a new shipment of Kogswell P/Rs or forks in a long time. In fact Kogswell is going to now concentrate on 26" (559) wheels only. Longleaf bicycles in North Carolina is going to take over the 650B Kogswell production from now on. They had a few 1" forks a while back, but all were 650b. The 700c Kogswell forks are 1 1/8", set up for canti brakes, and have a long axle to crown measurement. The rake on those is/was 58mm. If Anthony at Longleaf is smart he will make a 1" conversion fork with 58mm or more rake with or without canti posts and if he can keep them around $100 would sell a ton of those.
My Woodrup fork has 375 mm axle to crown. Brake fit is just at the end of a vintage medium reach brake caliper, first-gen DuraAce, with 700c. The bike was was originally made for 27 inch touring wheels.
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Old 06-16-11, 11:00 PM
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Awesome thread. Revived because I'm planning my Rando Build and found it very useful.
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Old 06-17-11, 08:36 AM
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Right-click, "view image", to view full size:








1983 Peugeot UO14, and yes I adjusted the front fender strut & a few other things since these photos were taken. Silca pump now in the umbrella and a stainless water bottle in the cage fills out the frame nicely. Eventually changing to 700c wheels w/dynamo kit and probably some nice Acorn bags.

Last edited by Fenway; 06-17-11 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 06-17-11, 09:07 AM
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^ Looks great! But how about a rear mudflap for those rain-splattered riders behind you! (I confess that neither I nor anyone I ride with has a rear mud flap, so we take turns spraying each other on rainy rides).

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Old 06-17-11, 09:08 AM
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Well I'll post the bike I do rando events on.

It's not C&V nor a "rando" bike, but it sure does wok good.

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Old 06-17-11, 10:54 AM
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Cross Check?
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Old 06-17-11, 04:38 PM
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I now have a head full of ideas and my wife wil not be happy, thanks to all for a better explanation or picture of what a "Rando" is or is thought to be.
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Old 06-17-11, 06:21 PM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by jr59
Well I'll post the bike I do rando events on.

It's not C&V nor a "rando" bike, but it sure does wok good.

You cook with it?!!!... Chinese food then, I take it. Is it a Chinese bike?
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Old 06-17-11, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool
You cook with it?!!!... Chinese food then, I take it. Is it a Chinese bike?
Dig the screen name
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Old 06-24-11, 12:15 AM
  #287  
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Here's my 30yo Japanese randonneuse, just refurbished. Bill P
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Old 07-05-11, 10:21 PM
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For the historical record, here is my now finished Bianchi Randonneur.

I fought my instincts and kept it largely stock except for the 700 wheels and the right bar end shifter. The ARX components are actually very smooth.

I took it out for a quick 20 this morning before family started to congregate. It is a very different ride. Although I love the look of touring bikes, I really don't like the belabored dull ride. This ride is neither tourer or crit bike. The long trail is very noticeable at first and feels tiller like at lower speeds. As speed increases, the bike tracks very well and even allows someone as clumsy and me to ride for some distance no hands. However, when you start to hammer, it reacts much more quickly than a tourer and corners well.


A good 4th to all.

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Old 07-05-11, 10:56 PM
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Been thinking about a lightweight randoneusse with a Rohloff Speedhub for a few years, and finally got around to it.



The hub is nice overall, but I can see why it hasn't gotten a whole lot of play in randonneuring circles. It's kind of heavy, and kind of noisy. But for a "cyclo muletisme" for mixed terrain in the mountains, it should be perfect.

Also FWIW, I've continued to learn and experiment with front end geometry. This frame is probably the last "experimental" one with 650b for me. It's the 73 degree parallel with 73 mm of fork rake that Jan Jeine has heaped so much praise on, and (drum roll please) I hate it. It's way too unstable, especially at very low speeds, and simply requires far too much attention. A replacement fork with 60mm of rake is at the painters right now and should make the bike very friendly. The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb...

So I no longer care about geometry and don't plan to build anything outside of those parameters, unless maybe I make myself a track bike someday.
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Old 07-06-11, 12:31 AM
  #290  
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That's my Centurion, leaning against the cable stay of the Sabo Bridge in Minneapolis. I apologize for the crummy picture; usual reasons apply. In any event, the more I read about rando, the more I want to try it, and I think this bike is a pretty good place to start.

It is possibly the most inherently stable bike I've ever ridden. I had it out around town on its shakedown ride a couple weeks ago, and I found myself looking for rougher and rougher sections of pavement. I finally found some good long stretches of brick-surfaced streets and tried it out. No hands, ma, even at slow walking speeds! It really, really wants to ride on the front contact patch-- it will tolerate about a degree of deviation from straight ahead and perfectly vertical before it starts to turn. It's not sluggish, not by any stretch of the imagination-- and the harder I ride, the more responsive it gets-- it's just quite well grounded. The bars very much encourage riding in the drops, and the combination of bar-ends/Suntour Cyclone/Dura-Ace makes for shifting so smooth it makes silk look like burlap.

Not only does this angle show off the sweep of the GB bars, it also lets you see what some misguided cretin did to the once-lovely Bluemels TdF fenders before I took possession! See the wrench marks down the valence? Stupid, stupid, stupid. A strong pair of thumbs and maybe the blunt end of a baseball bat (I actually use the big end of a splicing fid) is more the tool to use. I did manage to get the worst of the marks out with some very careful dolly work, but they'll never be all the way gone. And the fenderline, though better than it is now than when the photos were taken, still isn't quite right. Fortunately, I think I have another set heading my way soon. I am not terribly enamored of the Dia-Compe 500 brakes, and should soon be installing yet another pair of my beloved, carefully-hoarded MAFAC Comps.

This also shows, or would if it were taken in bright sunlight, the Cyclone RD I polished to within an inch of its life. That's a Normandy Luxe Comp (red label) hub, by the way, in a Super Champion rim. The front is a Rigida, tires are Conti Ultra Sports in 27x1-1/8" because that's what fits. I suppose that I would have to find another fender if I wanted to actually run a proper-sized rando tire, but isn't that what Velo Orange is for?

This is to show the lengths I am willing to go in order to pinch a penny. Rather than shell out for something new and halfway decent, I took a Dremel to a pair of old SR quill pedals with the built-in reflectors. Mind you, I wear a size 13 shoe and finding pedals that can take my gunboats is always something of a challenge. In any event, they work! And work well. If I'm going to be spinning the engine for hours and hours and hours, the last thing I need is for my feet and ankles to start hurting.

Needs a front rack and a saddlebag to be propah. For that, I need to get another two pair of eyelets and maybe a set of rack eyes added as well. Maybe later this year, the good Lloyd willing and the creek don't come up too far....
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Old 07-06-11, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Six jours
Been thinking about a lightweight randoneusse with a Rohloff Speedhub for a few years, and finally got around to it.


The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb..
SixJours, that randonneuse you built is nothing short of stunning. I've seen your other pictures of it ad your other projects, and have read about your frame building experiences. You obviously have a talent, a passion, and a sharp eye for style. Beautiful work.

I've been trying to understand front-end geometries, and the more I think I understand them in theory, the less the experimental outcomes bear them out. I recently did a 650B conversion of an 80s Japanses touring frame: Parallel 73 degree geometry and 57mm rake yields 44mm trail with 42mm tires. So it's right smack in the middle of those Jack Taylor numbers, yet I feel that the front end is too heavy with anything more than a few pounds in the front bag. I've been lamenting not having had the fork re-raked to give me lower trail in the Jane Heine range, but I'm starting to think now that that doing so may not have guaranteed better results.
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Old 07-06-11, 05:28 PM
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How's this...



Early '80s Bertin that was given to me years ago. Finally decided to make it my #1 bike, so it gets the Command shifters.
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Old 07-06-11, 07:14 PM
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Are you running without a front derailer? I don't see one.
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/
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Old 07-06-11, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by shipwreck
Are you running without a front derailer? I don't see one.
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/
Sharp eye. At the moment, no FD or left shifter installed. I've been out a couple of times and kicked the chain down manually, but haven't figured out a way to go up.
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Old 07-06-11, 07:51 PM
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Thanks for the kind words, southpawboston. Building all these frames has really added to my little pile of knowledge re. bicycle handling.

Interesting that our experiences have differed - but then, my experiences differ from Heine's too, so...

I have long suspected that geometry is only part of the puzzle, with things like body weight and positioning also playing a part. And of course pure old-fashioned personal preferences! I have always preferred a bike on the stable end of things, even when I was racing. Others like the hair-trigger bikes. C'est la vie. I guess we all just have to try out a dozen different geometries until we've settled on our favorite. Should make the framebuilders happy!
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Old 10-24-11, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kpug505
The French (we are talking about a French sport) preferred front loads and designed the geometry of the bike to suit that. The rake of the fork and headtube angles are different than just about every bike out there....They are very purpose built.

The link with an explanation:
https://www.momentumplanet.com/ecstat...anic/what-fork
I wonder if someone could find the link for me? This one seems to be broken.
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Old 07-30-13, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by andy e
just finished my "rando" build. enjoy!

70's Raleigh International
Nitto Noodle bars w/ mafac drilled levers
Shimano 600EX hubs laced to weinmann concave 700 rims
Panaracer Pasela non-TG 32s
Sugino PX crank w/ TA rings
Dia Compe Centerpulls w/ VO squeal free pads
Brooks B17 on a 3ttt post
Campy chorus pedals
Suntour V GT lux RD
Suntour Sprint FD
Suntour power rachet downtube shifters
Ostrich front and rear bags


still have to put on the honjo's






The ride is really quite amazing! Easy to ride hands free, fairly responsive, quick.
A truly inspirational build for me! Just had to post the link to your flickr gallery:
https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=inte...ll&ct=6&m=tags
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Old 07-30-13, 06:42 AM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by 1987
A truly inspirational build for me!
Well done, post pics w/ mudguards & front bag when you are done.

Thanks for reviving an interesting thread.

-Bandera
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Old 08-10-13, 12:54 PM
  #299  
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Here is my randonneur bike during a 200 or 300, it is a 1983 GAzelle Aframe, build up with Campagnolo 8 speed.
Two weeks ago I attempted London Edinburgh London on this bike, but had to stop after 350 km due to saddle sore.
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Old 08-10-13, 04:23 PM
  #300  
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I GUESS I am drifting towards Randoneur with this...still need to source a front rack...get some bags...pedal cages....
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