Doohickie

I have a 1994 hybrid that I converted to drop bars. I changed the shifters from twist grip shifters to Suntour Bar-Cons. The setup, driving ramped gears with the friction shifters, works great. The shifting action back at the derailleur is just like indexed shifters. Once in a while I need to trim the Bar-Con, but other than that it is just like indexed shifting.

I also put Bar-Cons on my 1983 Raleigh Super Course. It has Suntour aRX derailleurs, 6-speed freewheel, etc. I see that Shimano ramped 6-speed freewheels are readily available. I wonder if anyone has replaced a non-ramped freewheel with a ramped one, on a bike that was originally outfitted for friction shifting. If I dropped in the ramped Shimano freewheel, would I see the clean shifting similar to on my hybrid?

Last question... how do you feel about mixing the Shimano freewheel into the Suntour drivetrain? C&V faux pas, or just a replacement of a wear item? I guess it irks me that Shimano visibly brands their freewheels:



The SunRace freewheel is a little more nondescript and doesn't call attention to the mix & match, so maybe a better option for that reason:



One last question... would a 7-speed freewheel fit into the same width as the 6-speed and work as a drop-in replacement?

Note that I've already updated the handlebars and put aero brake levers on when I put the bar-cons on the bike, so it's no longer stock as it is.

sauze

replacing my old freewheel with a (cheap) ramped tooth one (as well as a new chain) is the one thing that's improved my shifting the most. Easy , cheap , world of difference.

Doohickie

So from your point of view, I'm over-thinking this, huh? Do you know if it's possible to replace a 6-speed with a 7-speed?

ColonelJLloyd 

Yes, you should be able to replace the 6sp with a 7sp freewheel without issue. All of my freewheel bikes wear HG freewheels; they're a marked improvement. The SunRace freewheels are excellent values.

sauze

The only thing standing in the way would be the spacing of your rear drop outs, an 83 Super Course probably has 126mm spacing (I could be wrong here, anyone confirm?) as opposed to older bikes with 120mm or modern bikes with 130mm. I've personally never done it, but there are several people here who have just squeezed the slightly larger rear wheel in (it's only 2mm on both sides) and as long as your RD can handle the difference you should be fine. I'm FAR from an expert on this particular subject so I imagine others will chime in, if I recall opinions are somewhat divided on if that's a good/safe thing to do.

https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Read that.

edit: beaten to it.

Gonzo Bob

In most cases a 7sp FW will fit where a 6sp once was (unless the 6sp is Suntour Ultra-6 on a 120mm OLD hub). You may (but probably not) need an extra 1mm axle spacer on the FW side which would slightly offset your rim 1/2mm to the non-drive side - probably not enough to worry about re-dishing (at least I wouldn't).

IRD also makes ramped cog freewheels - https://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html

ctmullins 

I've done it. I love it. Shimano, SunRace, IRD freewheels all work great. The Shimano ones are ugly.

The Shimano 6-speed ones are wide-spaced, for a 126mm axle. Don't know about the SunRace. I believe the IRD 6-speeds are narrow, for a 120mm axle. What's your hub axle measurement?

Doohickie

It currently has a Suntour 6-speed freewheel. I haven't measured it, but I think it's 126. Generic early 80s bike boom stuff. When I put a similar wheel on my old Varsity, it was a little tight; I think that was 120. This is a bit bigger than that, I'm pretty sure it's 126. Sounds like I could go to 7 speed. It seems like there are more options at 7 speeds, including a tight ratio 13-25 tooth freewheel.

Sunrace uses Shimano freewheel tool, right?

ColonelJLloyd 

Correct. The SunRace freewheels use the Shimano tool. I use the 13-25t 7sp SunRace freewheel with 8sp Campy Ergos and it all works great.

lee kenney

I long for the day I used to be able to buy individual cogs for free wheels, Sigh! Suntour , Sachs , Shimano , Sigh! Just bought a new generation Shimano 7 spd freewheel,with ramps.The Bearing race surfaces are very close together I am hoping this does not develop wobble with wear. I am fond of Suntour Thumbies and barcons and crave Scott AT 4 's.

Doohickie

On a C&V bike? 126 mm dropouts?

ColonelJLloyd 

Yes.

Doohickie

Oh yes... that beauty.

Doohickie

Just to give some perspective (and to show off a bit myself), here is the bike I'm talking about

BigPolishJimmy

Indeed, I love that bike. I have a feeling that I've asked this before, but do you know, will those freewheels fit and be compatible with an early 80's Fuji or Nishiki? that was only equipped as a 5 or 6-speed? i should really build my Nishiki this winter and it needs a freewheel anyway.


Edit: Nice Raleigh

fender1

Yes. If it was orignally 6 speed 6/7 will work fine. If 5 speed and 120mm, it need a 5 speed which are available as well.

mazdaspeed

The ramped cogs and modern chains really make a big difference. I have non-ramped cogs and a NOS early 80's chain (6sp) on my new daily rider, the shifting is bad compared to what I'm used to.

ColonelJLloyd 

Agreed. Go ahead and upgrade to a decent 8sp chain when you replace the freewheel.

Doohickie

What about a new (Pyramid? LBS house brand, anyway) 6-7-8 speed chain that I happen to have laying around? Good enough or should I fess up and get something better when I get the freewheel?

mazdaspeed

Should work fine, get a sram next time though.

sauze

SRAM's good , I've had good fortune with cheap KMC chains too.

sailorbenjamin

The easiest way is to put the wheel in the bike and look at it really hard. IIRC, the 6 and 7 speed freewheels have the same cog spacing. You should be able to tell if there's enough room. Do slide the wheel all the way forward in the dropout and make sure it won't hit the chainstay when you remove or install the wheel. Also look at it with the chain on the smallest cog. That adds just a little bit (thought not to the chainstay bit, cause there's no chain on that part of the cog). I'm running 7 speed on my '70 Supercourse and it fits but it rubs the end of the chainstay pretty hard when I r+r it. It's not a shiny bike so I don't worry. It was a 5 speed to begin with so I'm pushing my boundaries here, just like all my grade school teachers said I did.

LeicaLad 

+1 to all the above.

The new freewheel and chain makes a HUGE difference. Play with the spacing, but if the 7-speed is tight, the 6-speed options are quite good. I got a Sunrace by accident, and was very surprised by it's quality. Shimano freewheels are ugly, but those ramped teeth allow me to ignore that!

Doohickie

Looks like there might be enough room.

Casey Jones

A little off topic, but does anybody else like a really loud freewheel? For me, the louder the better. Anybody know of a good ramped 7 speed freewheel that is super loud? I am looking to upgrade soon and don't know how to tell what it will sound like before I buy. I know that this is a rediculous thing to base my purchase on, but I ride for fun mostly and coasting loudly makes me enjoy my ride more.